Help Me Fine Tune My Suspension
- Thread starter ShredAZ
- Start date
My TJ has 175K on it and I replaced my OE with Crowns. They worked fine, but I only ran them for a few months before I replaced them with a Currie lift. I don't know the longevity of them, but they still look brand new so far of course. So what I am trying to say is if you want the OE, I would go with the Crowns even if they last half the time, it is still a good deal in my mind.
If you know you are going to replace them later, and are just trying to get by, you can probably be fine with the 20 dollar ones, but personally if you were going to put them on as replacements, I would go for the Crowns.
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Any reason I should chose ACDELCO vs. Moog vs. Crown? Leaning towards ACDELCO mostly for the lifetime warranty (as opposed to Crown's 1 year). I can't imagine quality varies that much from brand-to-brand.
I've read some folks claiming the aftermarket OE brands use thinner material or substandard bushings vs. Mopar and some are better than others. If that's the case, would any of those brands be a safe bet?
Buying Mopar is out of the question. If I was shelling out $70/arm, I'd just cough up the extra $$$ for Currie at that point.
I've read some folks claiming the aftermarket OE brands use thinner material or substandard bushings vs. Mopar and some are better than others. If that's the case, would any of those brands be a safe bet?
Buying Mopar is out of the question. If I was shelling out $70/arm, I'd just cough up the extra $$$ for Currie at that point.
Yep, brand does matter, country of origin matters with MOOG, I have used parts from all 3 manufacturers, I prefer the moog USA over the rest for quality and longevity. Tim
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Alright everyone. After a ton of research and (over)thinking, I nailed down what I'm moving froward with.
Essentially, it's a complete suspension overhaul (Option 3).
I'm pulling the Fabtech 4" lift and selling it as a complete kit to fund the new setup.
The components I will be using:
Note - I'm open to buying used. If anyone has any of these components laying around that they would like to unload, shoot me PM.
Essentially, it's a complete suspension overhaul (Option 3).
I'm pulling the Fabtech 4" lift and selling it as a complete kit to fund the new setup.
The components I will be using:
- OME HD Coils F/R
- Rancho RS5000X Shocks (w/ Monroe Stabilizer)
- JKS 1.25" BL
- JKS 1" MML (or cheaper equivalent)
- MC Front Trackbar
- MC Front Sway Disconnects
- MC Rear 10.5" Swaybar Links
- OME Rear Trackbar Relocation Bracket (To be replaced down the road with a JKS or MC adjustable)
- OE Control Arms
- OE Bump Stops (I'll dial in the extensions with a combination of hockey pucks and spacers)
- OE Pitman Arm
Note - I'm open to buying used. If anyone has any of these components laying around that they would like to unload, shoot me PM.
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MML and BL installed this weekend. Big ups to @Chris for the hookup on the JKS BL!
MML job wasn't as bad as everyone made it out to be. I did run into a few snags. One of which was cross threading the M10 bolt on the driver side. I was so careful to start with just my fingers before cranking it. Must have caught one of the threads just right.
Good news is I was able to cut new threads using the old OE bolt and motor oil. Could have been a lot worse. For a second I was freaking out...
MML job wasn't as bad as everyone made it out to be. I did run into a few snags. One of which was cross threading the M10 bolt on the driver side. I was so careful to start with just my fingers before cranking it. Must have caught one of the threads just right.
Good news is I was able to cut new threads using the old OE bolt and motor oil. Could have been a lot worse. For a second I was freaking out...
Glad to hear you got it installed. Body lifts are very easy to install, that’s for sure!
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Brown Santa came. Everything's going in next weekend! Can't wait! Pics to follow.
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yeah, I used the stock rear bar with my OME 2" lift and it was fine. I then went 4" and opted for a JKS rear track bar, and had to buy a JKS bracket, then weeks later upgraded to a Ford 8.8, and didn't need the bracket anymore. That is how I ended up with it.
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Ran into something interesting today during the install.
After removing the Fabtech tubular LCA's, I noticed the bushing sleeve on the OE replacement was a hair too wide frame side to slide up into the bracket.
Upon closer inspection, it looks like the Fabtech LCA's have the same width bushing sleeve both frame and axle side where as the OE replacements have a 4-5mm wider sleeve frame side. When the Fabtechs were cranked to spec, it appeared to have pinched the frame bracket a tad too narrow.
No worries. I broke out the BFH and beat the frame mounts into submission. Still a pain in the ass.
Has anyone heard of this before?
After removing the Fabtech tubular LCA's, I noticed the bushing sleeve on the OE replacement was a hair too wide frame side to slide up into the bracket.
Upon closer inspection, it looks like the Fabtech LCA's have the same width bushing sleeve both frame and axle side where as the OE replacements have a 4-5mm wider sleeve frame side. When the Fabtechs were cranked to spec, it appeared to have pinched the frame bracket a tad too narrow.
No worries. I broke out the BFH and beat the frame mounts into submission. Still a pain in the ass.
Has anyone heard of this before?
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My thought too. Frame mounts all torqued just fine to 130 ft/lbs. cycled the suspension several times. No clunks. No binds. Very smooth!
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Before I ask my next question, just wanted to thank the community for being so helpful. Absolutely love this!
Today I removed the dropped pitman arm and replaced it with an OE equivalent. I used a 15" crescent to seat the new arm. I applied a hair of grease on the splines before doing so. My method was crank really hard, tap with a 3lb sledge, back off the bolt, and then crank again. I kept this up until I could not get the wrench to move anymore. I put every ounce of strength I had into cranking this thing!
I'm confident it isn't going anywhere, but I'm a little discouraged I could not get the arm to seat as high up as the old one. Is this thing good to go?
Today I removed the dropped pitman arm and replaced it with an OE equivalent. I used a 15" crescent to seat the new arm. I applied a hair of grease on the splines before doing so. My method was crank really hard, tap with a 3lb sledge, back off the bolt, and then crank again. I kept this up until I could not get the wrench to move anymore. I put every ounce of strength I had into cranking this thing!
I'm confident it isn't going anywhere, but I'm a little discouraged I could not get the arm to seat as high up as the old one. Is this thing good to go?
Keep an eye on it for a while make sure it doesn't loosen up, but I wouldn't worry if the stock arm sits in the same place as the aftermarket one you replaced. Or run it down to the local shop and see if they can give it a hit with an air wrench. They probably would do it for a cash tip.