Help me put together a solid build plan

nathanotis

nathanotis

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Messages
478
Location
Colorado Springs
Hey all. I wonder if I might be able to get some help with my build plan.

I have a spread sheet/list of what I want to do/install, and I'm constantly tweaking the order of my plan to achieve the best course forward. I also over think things. I WANT TO BUILD SMART. I don't want to have to do things only to re-do them later. I WANT TO BUILD STRONG so I don't get stranded, and I want to build some self-reliance into this vehicle so I can do light wheeling & camping by myself sometimes. I'm also not rich, so while I believe in "buy once, cry once", it can take some time between steps.

The Platform is my stock '04 Rubi w/standard trans. My Goal is capable off-road in my daily. 33's with a *possible* build path down the road to 35's. I live in Colorado and I want to wheel on the fun stuff (ie: rocks). My previous Jeep was a TJ on 33's, I've done muddy forest trails, creek crossings and rock crawling in Moab, etc. so I'm familiar with the trade offs of a built daily driver.

My first mod or upgrade is already underway: Replacing the axle shafts with chromoly. It's out of order for a stock rig, but my right rear axle is bent, so I'm just biting the bullet and getting them all, now. Parts are ordered and on their way.

Next, I'd like to get to the lift, wheels and tires as soon as I can (cause that's the fun stuff), but under armor and future prep like body lift and motor mount lift may be a better way to start. In the end I'll have Savvy's 3" spring lift, flat tummy tuck and lifted gas tank and engine skid. I'm considering Genright's mini boatsides, too. I'll re-gear and do the ZJ steering upgrade. Tom Wood driveshaft, warn winch, new bumpers and stronger brakes... Some things can obviously wait, but this is where I break down and can't decide how to phase everything in.

So where do you start? What's a good, smart build path with a minimum of time and money spent retracing my steps?

(I also get really wordy. Sorry)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob
Hey @nathanotis - I’m headed to bed but I’m not far from you and so far haven’t sold much building from stock to 35s in a few years with quality parts.

I’ll check back tomorrow but having driven an 04 on 4.88 on 35s I would skip to 5.13. I would suggest choosing the tire size you want to build around since that dictates a few things, such as which gearing is right (I’d error on the side of more than less).
 
  • Like
Reactions: tworley, J&M’s ICON, SvtLdr and 1 other person
Wasn't the TJ Rubi "Trail Rated" at Moab out of the box?
Other than "extreme rock crawling" everything added is for personal looks?
 
How is your frame, rusted? Are all suspension bolts rusted in place? Can you get the rear shocks off? My build took much longer when I found significant rust
 
rasband said:
Hey @nathanotis - I’m headed to bed but I’m not far from you and so far haven’t sold much building from stock to 35s in a few years with quality parts.

I’ll check back tomorrow but having driven an 04 on 4.88 on 35s I would skip to 5.13. I would suggest choosing the tire size you want to build around since that dictates a few things, such as which gearing is right (I’d error on the side of more than less).
Click to expand...
I get that, and I'd love to experience a real world example. My previous Rubi never went past 33s on 4.10. of course, it was also a standard trans, AND I grew accustomed to that gearing in the flatlands of Illinois. Just this weekend driving to Woodland Park as a stocker really got me thinking about re-gearing at all.

It's there a simple relationship to retain performance, like:

31" @ 4.10
33" @ 4.56
35" @ 4.88

And if it's that easy, I'd assume one would see improvement over stock if one went:

33" @ 4.88
35" @ 5.13

And where do we start to get concerned about the size of the pinion?

Two other things to consider are that: I'm not a lead footed speed demon, racing all over during my daily (I USTA be, but I've mellowed with age)... There WAS a second thing, but my brain lost it while typing the first thing 🙄. I'll add it when it floats back through...

I have this idea that I can build CORRECTLY for 33, and that one day, a few small changes would allow me to step up to 35 if I wanted. Is that a foolish notion?
 
jjvw said:
Mine was never trail rated. That would have saved me a bunch of hassle. 🙁
Click to expand...
I'll check if I have the badging or not. That may save me a lot of headache. 😉

Yours is a build I watched with great interest, functional as it is. I changed some of my ideas of what I wanted and how to proceed along the path based on your posting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
nathanotis said:
I'll check if I have the badging or not. That may save me a lot of headache. 😉

Yours is a build I watched with great interest, functional as it is. I changed some of my ideas of what I wanted and how to proceed along the path based on your posting.
Click to expand...
One thing I know about Colorado based on what we do is that 33s and raised skids will get most places. As far as regearing, your 04 should have the nv3550. 4.88 is just about perfect for 33s. Which means 5.13 is very good for 35s.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D M, pc1p, tworley and 3 others
You have a good base already and your philosophy seems sound. I would check out @Irun and see his build thread for inspiration.

Keeping things simple and light is the way to go. Obviously ground clearance is also important, but there are ways to achieve that without getting too crazy. I would focus on underbody armor first, steering box skid, control arm skids, oil pan skid, and a thicker differential cover. Grab a pair of spare axle shafts and drive shafts, maybe a better tire/wheel combo, but I’d armor up the underbody and take it out to see how it does. You may be surprised.

This was Stolen from July ride of the month thread @SecondChanceTJ. I love this picture and It shows what a mostly stock TJ rubicon can do.
080E4A70-08C8-499E-892C-53DD7912E070.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob and Irun
nathanotis said:
I have this idea that I can build CORRECTLY for 33, and that one day, a few small changes would allow me to step up to 35 if I wanted. Is that a foolish notion?
Click to expand...
Not necessarily foolish, maybe just mis-guided?

You're biggest concern is going to be gearing. If you gear correctly for 33's you'll end up under-geared when going to 35's.

Depending on the type of wheeling you do, your steering will also be a concern. You mentioned going with the ZJ steering which is great for 33's. I ran with that setup for many years and even pushed it when I went to 35's. I started doing more rocks and eventually stepped up the the Currie steering. Maybe just food for thought?

Have you settled on a lift height? If so, is it enough to clear 35's? Are you considering adding high-clearance fenders if you bump up to 35's?

And then there's brakes. You'll definitely notice a difference in your stopping distance if you go from 33's to 35's. There are a number of upgrades than can be done to your braking system. In my opinion, it really comes down to personal preference and driving style. I'm still running stock brakes and have just gotten used to slowing down on the roads. I don't drive in adverse weather conditions and I'm rarely in heavy traffic so I'm getting by for the time being. Hopefully one day I'll be able to invest in a big brake kit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob and Lax22
nathanotis said:
I don't want to have to do things only to re-do them later.
Click to expand...

nathanotis said:
I have this idea that I can build CORRECTLY for 33, and that one day, a few small changes would allow me to step up to 35 if I wanted. Is that a foolish notion?
Click to expand...

I feel like you can't do both, pick one and go with it. I say just go for the 35's you are already thinking about it. If you plan for 35s then you won't have to worry about redoing things later.
 
rhanna said:
I feel like you can't do both, pick one and go with it. I say just go for the 35's you are already thinking about it. If you plan for 35s then you won't have to worry about redoing things later.
Click to expand...
The difference between 33s and 35s is either a set of springs or a body lift, depending on how the 33s are set up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob, nathanotis, Lax22 and 2 others
Top Bottom
Back