Help me put together a solid build plan

[J&M’s ICON]

Hey @nathanotis - I’m headed to bed but I’m not far from you and so far haven’t sold much building from stock to 35s in a few years with quality parts.

I’ll check back tomorrow but having driven an 04 on 4.88 on 35s I would skip to 5.13. I would suggest choosing the tire size you want to build around since that dictates a few things, such as which gearing is right (I’d error on the side of more than less).

^^^^^
I could not agree more! I’ve built and rebuilt over the years.

My 06 Rubi currently has Revolution CM shafts and 5:13 gearing. I went to 5:13s this year after running 4:88s for years. Although not a huge jump in a manual transmission, I do see a difference on pulling mountain passes more than anything. I’m also a Colorado Native, we need all the help we can get when playing at high altitude, or I should say getting to high altitude.

 

[Irun]

The difference between 33s and 35s is either a set of springs or a body lift, depending on how the 33s are set up.

Plus the gearing. Based on the the original post, 3" Savvy springs won't be enough for a 35" tire, unless there are some other significant modifications.

 

[J&M’s ICON]

Plus the gearing. Based on the the original post, 3" Savvy springs won't be enough for a 35" tire, unless there are some other significant modifications.

Personally, I’d go with a set of Currie 4” Rock Jock Springs and a 1”- 1.5” Body Lift.

 

[SvtLdr]

The difference between 33s and 35s is either a set of springs or a body lift, depending on how the 33s are set up.

Depending on what shock was being used, a new spring height may also require a new set of shocks.

 

[mrblaine]

Wasn't the TJ Rubi "Trail Rated" at Moab out of the box?
Other than "extreme rock crawling" everything added is for personal looks?

No

 

[nathanotis]

Would you do all the work? Can you weld?

I would.

I can stick metal together, but I'm connected to people who can do it better.

 

[tworley]

I built mine for 35s while wheeling on 33s. Once I got to a point of being pretty happy, I made the jump to 35s. Shock mounts, bumpstops, and brakes were the only changes to make.

For CO, I went everywhere the guys on 35s did. I did have to be careful on line choice but in the end we all made it back to the same parking lot. Gear with the mindset that you'll put 35s on in the future. Start with 4" springs and a tummy tuck. You'll be just fine and will conquer 90% of the trails CO has to offer

 

[mrblaine]

And where do we start to get concerned about the size of the pinion?

Never

I have this idea that I can build CORRECTLY for 33, and that one day, a few small changes would allow me to step up to 35 if I wanted. Is that a foolish notion?

As long as the emphasis stays on "correctly" then yes. The changes to run 35's would be a body lift, tires, and maybe gearing.

 

[nathanotis]

As long as the emphasis stays on "correctly" then yes. The changes to run 35's would be a body lift, tires, and maybe gearing.

Body and motor lift are already part of the path to 33s, so that's good confirmation. As @tworley stated, I guess I'm building "for 35s while wheeling on 33s". I know I'll end up there eventually. That alleviates my hand-wringing about gearing. Good progress.

 

[mrblaine]

"for 35s while wheeling on 33s". I know I'll end up there eventually.

If you know that, then just do it and don't waste the time and effort for 33's.

 

[Chris]

Body and motor lift are already part of the path to 33s, so that's good confirmation. As @tworley stated, I guess I'm building "for 35s while wheeling on 33s". I know I'll end up there eventually. That alleviates my hand-wringing about gearing. Good progress.

Then why even waste your time with 33s, honestly? Just go straight to 35s and learn from most of our mistakes.

 

[SvtLdr]

I'd recommend wheeling on 33's for the education aspect. You can learn a lot and develop some great skills as a driver. Those skills will also one day make you appreciate 35's even more when the time comes. IMO you can slowly build for 35's while still wheeling on 33's. Put together a 5-yr plan that won't waste any time/ money on parts. After 5 years, those 33's will be worn out and you'll be ready for new 35's.

 

[mrblaine]

I'd recommend wheeling on 33's for the education aspect. You can learn a lot and develop some great skills as a driver. Those skills will also one day make you appreciate 35's even more when the time comes. IMO you can slowly build for 35's while still wheeling on 33's. Put together a 5-yr plan that won't waste any time/ money on parts. After 5 years, those 33's will be worn out and you'll be ready for new 35's.

Then why not wheel on 31's?

 

[UKTJ]

I will probably say something silly and get corrected, but I thought I would chip in as I think we are in a similar position right now.

I have had my TJ a while, but never really used it off road, but I would like to. Will I love it? I don't know. Will I have enough time to devote to it to do it a lot? I don't know. Getting to 35s "correctly" would be a pretty chunky amount to invest*. As others have said, getting to 33s "correctly" would cost almost as much. Given the open questions I am have decided I do not want to invest sufficiently to get to either 33s or 35s correctly as a first step. My plan is to take a somewhat phased approach, as follows:

Phase 1:
1" BL (already done)
1" MML (already done) - hopefully this means I will not need to drop the transmission skid / mount
Winch plate
Winch
Cable shift
Better front brake pads
2.5" OME springs
Appropirately sized new shocks, at this stage thinking BlackMax given recent good feedback on here
JKS quicker disconnects
33" tyres

If I enjoy using the TJ off road in this configuration I will then embark on further work / expenditure at a somewhat relaxed pace over a period of time:

Phase 2:
Upgraded steering
Regear
ARB lockers front and rear
Further brake upgrades
Adjustable Control Arms
SYE / DC drive shaft
Raised fuel tank / skid
Chromoly axle shafts

After these changes I would hope my TJ will be "correct" for 33s and the changes needed for 35s will be limited. Then if I find I can't live without 35s I will make the switch with either, taller springs / shocks, or, higher clearance fenders.

I see how this is potentially suboptimal. Specifically I could end up paying for two lots of springs and shocks. I will also be unliekly to regear a second time, so I may end up with the wrong gearing whether I move to 35s or not. But given the open questions I still have that more than offsets the risk of spending a lot of money on the TJ to change things that I then find I will never need.

Your situation may be different, but I thought it worth adding a different perspective.


* Living outside the US and driving a RHD TJ means parts are much harder to find and come at a substantial price premium compared to a US based TJ owner.

 

[SvtLdr]

Then why not wheel on 31's?

I didn't say not to wheel on 31's. The OP has only questioned 33's and 35's thus far.

 

[mrblaine]

I didn't say not to wheel on 31's. The OP has only questioned 33's and 35's thus far.

You said to wheel on 33's for the education, if you are going to do that, why not get a real education?

 

[eastbloc]

 

[SvtLdr]

You said to wheel on 33's for the education, if you are going to do that, why not get a real education?

I agree 100%! I started off wheeling on 31's and learned a lot. I was just trying to keep things limited to the scope defined by the OP.

 

[SvtLdr]

View attachment 270149

 

[Apparition]

I agree 100%! I started off wheeling on 31's and learned a lot. I was just trying to keep things limited to the scope defined by the OP.

In OP's original post he mentions his last jeep was on 33's. Time to go 35's.