How to change your OPDA

bcon2010

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Hey at the start someone said that a bad OPDA could cause a check engine light. ould this cause my oil pressure gage to show low then when i turn the jeep off then on the gage show normal operating pressure?
 

RMETeeJay

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I needed to change the OPDA in my 2004 because there was too much lateral play in the pulse ring (the part you can see under the camshaft position sensor, or CPS). In my case, at high RPMs, it actually broke off the magnet in the CPS and I also found lots of metal filings inside of it. There was an allen-head screw holding the pulse ring on, but I was not able to tighten it. I assume that a bearing inside of the OPDA failed? I noticed that the new OPDA pulse ring was not held on with a screw, so hopefully the new part will work for a long time.

I took some photos and notes which I’ll post here. @Chris , feel free to move this if you think it belongs elsewhere.

I ordered the Dorman 689-200, which also came with a CPS, gasket and an alignment tool (no instructions).

1. Loosen the sensor screws (5.5mm) and remove.

2. In the OEM OPDA, there is a small hole in the bottom of the sensor base and a corresponding hole in the pulse ring. To align them, you’ll need to rotate the crankshaft.

After realizing that I’d need to remove the fan, etc from above, I decided to do it from below instead with a 19mm wrench. Due to limited space, it did take quite a few partial turns to get things lined up.

If you don’t have a helper to watch the holes, get up and check them after a few turns. If you go past, you’ll have to go all the way around again.

6E9C25D4-0F44-4984-BE18-DA724B688614.jpeg


3. Once lined up, grab a toothpick or make a tool out of something. I made one out of wire with a bend to prevent it from falling out.

110543DB-2154-4EC5-9490-F7D701413C72.jpeg


4. Remove the hold-down bolt (13mm) and clamp. Lift out the OPDA. It will rotate counter-clockwise due to the spiral gear. Make a mental note of where things are when you are able to lift it straight up so you will know where to start when you install the new one.

You can see the old paper gasket that you’ll need to remove. I stuffed a clean rag in to the hole and used a razor blade and solvent to get it shiny (2nd photo).

959F0E07-CDBC-42FB-9B5C-FEBA69E37D17.jpeg

7C1B2C11-AA36-47E7-95F5-6448F09CDE3B.jpeg


5. Use the alignment tool included with the new OPDA to lock the pulse ring from moving. The arrow will end up pointing to the rear of the vehicle, so insert the OPDA slightly counter-clockwise of that (where the old one was able to be lifted straight up after rotation). When it connects to the gear, it will rotate clockwise into position. Make sure to rotate it clockwise all the way until it stops.

5C6217DD-F930-4E57-B1FC-D294B0EBCFFD.jpeg


6. Clamp the OPDA back down to 17 ft. lbs. and then the reinstall the CPS (15 in. lbs.). The wiring harness for the CPS should be pointing straight back to the rear of the vehicle.
 
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Chris

Chris

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I needed to change the OPDA in my 2004 because there was too much lateral play in the pulse ring (the part you can see under the camshaft position sensor, or CPS). In my case, at high RPMs, it actually broke off the magnet in the CPS and I also found lots of metal filings inside of it. There was an allen-head screw holding the pulse ring on, but I was not able to tighten it. I assume that a bearing inside of the OPDA failed? I noticed that the new OPDA pulse ring was not held on with a screw, so hopefully the new part will work for a long time.

I took some photos and notes which I’ll post here. @Chris , feel free to move this if you think it belongs elsewhere.

I ordered the Dorman 689-200, which also came with a CPS, gasket and an alignment tool (no instructions).

1. Loosen the sensor screws (5.5mm) and remove.

2. In the OEM OPDA, there is a small hole in the bottom of the sensor base and a corresponding hole in the pulse ring. To align them, you’ll need to rotate the crankshaft.

After realizing that I’d need to remove the fan, etc from above, I decided to do it from below instead with a 19mm wrench. Due to limited space, it did take quite a few partial turns to get things lined up.

If you don’t have a helper to watch the holes, get up and check them after a few turns. If you go past, you’ll have to go all the way around again.

View attachment 133567

3. Once lined up, grab a toothpick or make a tool out of something. I made one out of wire with a bend to prevent it from falling out.

View attachment 133568

4. Remove the hold-down bolt (13mm) and clamp. Lift out the OPDA. It will rotate counter-clockwise due to the spiral gear. Make a mental note of where things are when you are able to lift it straight up so you will know where to start when you install the new one.

You can see the old paper gasket that you’ll need to remove. I stuffed a clean rag in to the hole and used a razor blade and solvent to get it shiny (2nd photo).

View attachment 133569
View attachment 133570

5. Use the alignment tool included with the new OPDA to lock the pulse ring from moving. The arrow will end up pointing to the rear of the vehicle, so insert the OPDA slightly counter-clockwise of that (where the old one was able to be lifted straight up after rotation). When it connects to the gear, it will rotate clockwise into position. Make sure to rotate it clockwise all the way until it stops.

View attachment 133571

6. Clamp the OPDA back down to 17 ft. lbs. and then the reinstall the CPS (15 in. lbs.). The wiring harness for the CPS should be pointing straight back to the rear of the vehicle.

Awesome little write-up!
 

Chasitek

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Not sure if anyone still watches this thread but I just replaced the OPDA in my 06 because I got a p0016 and a p0300. So far the codes have gone away but there’s a ticking coming from the new crown opda. I can put my hand on it and clearly feel the ticking coming from the opda. Did I just get a lemon?
 

Joedert

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Corn Feild
Does the Crown unit you have been picturing fit the smaller unit pictured by Matkal?
Mines an 04 built 2/04. It looks like the one pictured by Matkal. My Oem sensor is definitely different looking then the 05/06. I’m not having any trouble. Just thought of doing a preventative maintenance.
 

Mower2339

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Manti, Utah
One of the most common issues with the 4.0 engine in the later model Wrangler TJs is the OPDA (oil pump drive assembly). The factory OPDA is designed with two oil impregnated bronze bushings separated by an oil seal. The upper bushing is cut off from lubrication by that seal, resulting in premature failure. Over time, radial movement develops in the shaft. Eventually, the complete assembly and camshaft will fail.

Jeep / Chrysler is well aware of the OPDA issue with these cars as they issued the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0 engines due to premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. However, don't be fooled by the recall dates as there are many owners of 2006 models (and even the years prior to 2005) that have experienced OPDA issues, including complete failure.

A worn oil pump drive assembly will show symptoms, such as a check engine light or a squeaking noise coming from the oil pump drive assembly itself (some people describe the noise as a loud screeching sound or something similar to a laughing barrel of monkeys).

The fact of the matter however is this is no laughing matter. Ignoring a bad OPDA can and will result in catastrophic engine failure which will put you in the hole for thousands of dollars. On the contrary, a replacement OPDA is only a bit more than $100, and it's a very easy thing to change out as well.

If you recently purchased a used Wrangler TJ one of the first things you should think about doing is to change out the OPDA with the redesigned Crown Automotive OPDA, regardless of what year your Wrangler TJ is.

The reengineered Crown OPDA moves the seal above the upper bushings, allowing oil to lubricate it. An oil channel was also added to the shaft to increase overall lubrication to the area.

You can purchase the Crown OPDA here.

The video below perfectly demonstrates step-by-step how to change out the OPDA.

Wish there were a video for the 03 as my OPDA is different, and I have no idea how to get it back into synch🤷... I wish I wouldn't have pulled it out before watching this as I have no idea as to any reference points.
 

rasband

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Wish there were a video for the 03 as my OPDA is different, and I have no idea how to get it back into synch🤷... I wish I wouldn't have pulled it out before watching this as I have no idea as to any reference points.

If you haven’t yet, check the FSM - it helped with my 06 so I’m sure it has a how to on yours:

 
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Mower2339

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If you haven’t yet, check the FSM - it helped with my 06 so I’m sure it has a how to on yours:

I appreciate that man, I actually have, but it wants me to pull plug to cylinder #1, then crank engine by hand until I feel pressure, then line up the timing marks to TDC, which I am willing to try, but don't see any timing marks on any of the pulleys on the front of my Jeep. As well as it mentions not to crank it the "wrong way". I'm not sure which way it turns when hand Cranking. I'm assuming clockwise when standing in front, looking into the engine bay, but I'm not quite sure, thus stuck at this point. I wish I would have looked at this sooner, as all I was replacing was the Camshaft position sensor, but I pulled the entire OPDA out, before looking at the service manual, and made no reference marks as to how it goes back in. My OPDA was loose, spinning side to side when all these issues started, so who knows if it's now way out of timing, ect. Last it ran, it ran fine, so idk.
 

taylormade73

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I appreciate that man, I actually have, but it wants me to pull plug to cylinder #1, then crank engine by hand until I feel pressure, then line up the timing marks to TDC, which I am willing to try, but don't see any timing marks on any of the pulleys on the front of my Jeep. As well as it mentions not to crank it the "wrong way". I'm not sure which way it turns when hand Cranking. I'm assuming clockwise when standing in front, looking into the engine bay, but I'm not quite sure, thus stuck at this point. I wish I would have looked at this sooner, as all I was replacing was the Camshaft position sensor, but I pulled the entire OPDA out, before looking at the service manual, and made no reference marks as to how it goes back in. My OPDA was loose, spinning side to side when all these issues started, so who knows if it's now way out of timing, ect. Last it ran, it ran fine, so idk.

Rotate your crankshaft pulley clockwise with a 3/4" socket and breaker bar until the notch in it aligns with the TDC timing marker on your block above the pulley. Make sure your #1 piston is at the top of its stroke. At this point align your camshaft synchronizer (not an OPDA in pre 05's).
 

Mower2339

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Thank
Rotate your crankshaft pulley clockwise with a 3/4" socket and breaker bar until the notch in it aligns with the TDC timing marker on your block above the pulley. Make sure your #1 piston is at the top of its stroke. At this point align your camshaft synchronizer (not an OPDA in pre 05's).
Thanks man, I'll give it a try, I'm wondering if the camshaft synchronizer is bad too, I just put a new sensor on top of it, the sensor was echlin brand from napa. My next issue is going to be dead battery from all the cranking the last few days. I've got a lithium jump starter that should do the trick.......I guess it's time to upgrade to AGM anyways🤘🤘. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.
 

Steel City 06

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Pick up a trickle charger from Walmart, Amazon, or your local auto parts store. Then plug it in overnight. The cranking won't hurt the battery, but deep discharging it will
 

taylormade73

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Thank

Thanks man, I'll give it a try, I'm wondering if the camshaft synchronizer is bad too, I just put a new sensor on top of it, the sensor was echlin brand from napa. My next issue is going to be dead battery from all the cranking the last few days. I've got a lithium jump starter that should do the trick.......I guess it's time to upgrade to AGM anyways🤘🤘. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.
Camshaft synchro likely not bad. Return the NAPA sensor and either reuse your old Mopar one or buy a new Mopar one. TJs are like a super picky baby that spits its food back up when it doesn't like it. Sometimes, the aftermarket sensors work (on extremely rare occasion), but mostly cause CELs and such. Stick with OEM on sensors.
 
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Mower2339

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Camshaft synchro likely not bad. Return the NAPA sensor and either reuse your old Mopar one or buy a new Mopar one. TJs are like a super picky baby that spits its food back up when it doesn't like it. Sometimes, the aftermarket sensors work (on extremely rare occasion), but mostly cause CELs and such. Stick with OEM on sensors.
The original one on there says "made in China" right on it. I had purchased a Mopar TPS, and a Mopar crankshaft ps , then after starting the Jeep it said the Camshaft POS sensor was bad. In a pinch, went to Napa to grab one as no one in Sanpete County Utah has a Mopar one. The Echlin line is supposedly right behind Mopar, and have great reviews, I just wanted to get it running. Pretty sure it has something to do with the camshafts relation to that gear driven oil pump thing. I'll try the realigning procceedure tomorrow and see if I have any luck.
 

taylormade73

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The original one on there says "made in China" right on it. I had purchased a Mopar TPS, and a Mopar crankshaft ps , then after starting the Jeep it said the Camshaft POS sensor was bad. In a pinch, went to Napa to grab one as no one in Sanpete County Utah has a Mopar one. The Echlin line is supposedly right behind Mopar, and have great reviews, I just wanted to get it running. Pretty sure it has something to do with the camshafts relation to that gear driven oil pump thing. I'll try the realigning procceedure tomorrow and see if I have any luck.
How did realignment go?
 

Mower2339

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How did realignment go?
I'm out trying to do it right now, I can't see any reference marks on the harmonic balancer, and can't see anywhere on the block where it would line up with if I were to be able to find it. I turned the crank clockwise while my wife put her finger into the spark plug #1 hole and told her to tell me when she felt pressure, I cranked it maybe a half turn and she said "ok, I feel it pushing air". I'm now just trying to find index marks to make sure it's lined up.
 

Mower2339

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I'm out trying to do it right now, I can't see any reference marks on the harmonic balancer, and can't see anywhere on the block where it would line up with if I were to be able to find it. I turned the crank clockwise while my wife put her finger into the spark plug #1 hole and told her to tell me when she felt pressure, I cranked it maybe a half turn and she said "ok, I feel it pushing air". I'm now just trying to find index marks to make sure it's lined up.
Also It shows sticking a toothpick through the synchronizer housing to line it up, but my housing has no holes to do that??

Screenshot_20200605-184511.png


15914678453037128063823488545707.jpg
 

taylormade73

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I'm out trying to do it right now, I can't see any reference marks on the harmonic balancer, and can't see anywhere on the block where it would line up with if I were to be able to find it. I turned the crank clockwise while my wife put her finger into the spark plug #1 hole and told her to tell me when she felt pressure, I cranked it maybe a half turn and she said "ok, I feel it pushing air". I'm now just trying to find index marks to make sure it's lined up.
Take your finger nail and place it on the rear edge of the pulley. Rotate clockwise until you feel your fingernail catch on the notch. The TDC timing mark should be on the block at the top right of the pulley.