How to replace a distributor the easy way

Either way. After 7 frustrating hours, I towed it to my mechanic. I did mention that the new dist (both) the cam position sensor plugs didn't seem as tight as what I removed. maybe more damage, but we'll see. if that dist was off 1 tooth, I can't see how it could turn the oil pump when it just hits. I actually made it 1 tooth off on purpose one of the 10 times I had it out and it just bumped to a stop not seated. We'll see what happens. I trust him, he's a good guy. The write up is great, I think I just have something else going on

Definitely curious to know what it is. If there's something I missed to make the process work better I'm glad to update it.
 
A related question. I have a 97 TJ 4L 6 cyl. that I bought used with 120k on it. I am not sure what has been done to it and so thought that I would replace the distributor cap and rotor, and air filter. Is it necessary and how often? once a year? once every 10 years? thanks.
 
I’m not sure if it’s part of any sort of required maintenance procedure. I’ve had some old cars with ostensibly original diz caps— a 66, a 79, and now a 97. They all looked more or less the same inside. So I would say only replace if you’re having issues and can zero in on it being a likely culprit.

The air filter should be replaced regularly.
 
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So I just finished building a stroker. New Cardone distributor. I thought I did things according to the FSM...3/16 pin to line up the hole, oil pump clocked to 11.

Interestingly the FSM talks about removing the plastic covering the cam sensor to find the holes...I tried this on the old XJ distro and just broke the cover. I found the pin hole from underneath...but there are allegedly two holes...one for the 4.0, one for the 4 cyl.

Cranks no start. Doing research for tomorrow's battle...

-Mac
 
So I just finished building a stroker. New Cardone distributor. I thought I did things according to the FSM...3/16 pin to line up the hole, oil pump clocked to 11.

Interestingly the FSM talks about removing the plastic covering the cam sensor to find the holes...I tried this on the old XJ distro and just broke the cover. I found the pin hole from underneath...but there are allegedly two holes...one for the 4.0, one for the 4 cyl.

Cranks no start. Doing research for tomorrow's battle...

-Mac

At one point I uncovered how to know which hole is for the 4 and which one is for the 6, but I don't rembember it. I would say get the engine to TDC and get the rotor pointing to "1" and see where that lands you. It might also reveal which is the correct hole to stick the pin through.
 
At one point I uncovered how to know which hole is for the 4 and which one is for the 6, but I don't rembember it. I would say get the engine to TDC and get the rotor pointing to "1" and see where that lands you. It might also reveal which is the correct hole to stick the pin through.

IMG20260412050521.webp

IMG20260412050516.webp



View: https://youtu.be/zHTboji21h8?si=9C7GftcCtSgulWwm

-Mac
 
To close up my comments...the distributor gear on the new Cardone was 180 out. And I got the Jeep started by hooking up the gas pedal and giving it gas. IAC is probably stuck or clogged.

Following the factory service manual instructions and using a 3/16" drill bit (be very very careful not to drop it in the engine), rotating the oil pump to 11 o'clock, starting the tie down fork at 1 o'clock and rotating clockwise seated the distributor. Took me a dozen tries to get the oil pump in the perfect spot. Don't get frustrated if you don't nail it right off.

-Mac
 
How do you mean the gear was 180 out? I've definitely heard of the gear being mounted to the shaft incorrectly, is that what you mean?
 
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