I hate my Jeep

[SolarCool TJ]

And yes, get rid of the drop pitman arm ASAP as well.


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Zip...good call on the drop pitman arm. your the 1st one to mention that. Everything I've read, and other people in the so called know have told me that the drop pitman on a 4" or less suspension lift is the 1st sign of a poorly designed and cheap kit. Wich should have been avoided from the jump.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

You are likely getting driveline vibration with your current set up. IMO, I'd start with the following:

1. SYE and Adams or Tom Woods rear drive shaft
2. Adjustable front track bar (I'd personally either go Currie or MC) with that lift height
3. New shocks (a few great choices)
4. Adjustable rear upper control arms if yours are still stock (I'm not sure what all your lift actually replaced).
5. Ride and see what you think before replacing anything else

Also. You should measure your springs on flat ground with the weight of the Jeep on them to find out how much lift you are actually currently getting.

I have the SYE and driveshaft, so no vibes. And here is a link to my RC 4''

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-661.html

basically its the whole RC package

Adjustable Arms all around w/clevite bushings
Adjustable front TB
Adjustable rear TB
TB drop bracket
Drop pitman arm
Coils
Shocks

 

[SolarCool TJ]

You can always do it a little at a time. That's what I've been doing. I'd work on getting that drop pitman arm and front track bar first. Then maybe do shocks if you are going to keep the springs. Usually springs aren't too bad although I'm not sure what the uncompressed length of the ones you have are. The pro comps on mine let my 10.75" travel shocks go to full droop and only start to get loose enough to where you can twist them a bit. If/when I go to longer shocks I'll likely end up with the currie springs, although I'd probably only go with an 11" travel front shock as recommended by many. I believe the rear currie springs allow a 12" travel shock. But I'd also like to do a tummy tuck before then. Which means a body lift, which means I'll likely want to go to 35" tires around the same time which leads to a super 35 and chromo shafts for the Dana 30 up front and so on and so forth. It really starts to snowball at a certain point.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

I actually got the money to do it all in one shot, wich is what i prefer to do. And my good neighbor is a mechanic with a full shop down the road. Even though I went with a so-called "Jeep 4x4 shop" to have my current setup installed, thinking it was the right thing to do, And that they would be the So-called experts. This was the same shop that talked me out of my original thoughts of going full out Savvy/Currie from the beginning and recommended the cheaper RC instead. So, of course the idiot in me at the time said " whats the worst that can happen?" Now that I know a little better, Im going to have my neighbor do it, and ill be there to help out every step of the way.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

You can always do it a little at a time. That's what I've been doing. I'd work on getting that drop pitman arm and front track bar first. Then maybe do shocks if you are going to keep the springs. Usually springs aren't too bad although I'm not sure what the uncompressed length of the ones you have are. The pro comps on mine let my 10.75" travel shocks go to full droop and only start to get loose enough to where you can twist them a bit. If/when I go to longer shocks I'll likely end up with the currie springs, although I'd probably only go with an 11" travel front shock as recommended by many. I believe the rear currie springs allow a 12" travel shock. But I'd also like to do a tummy tuck before then. Which means a body lift, which means I'll likely want to go to 35" tires around the same time which leads to a super 35 and chromo shafts for the Dana 30 up front and so on and so forth. It really starts to snowball at a certain point.

From what I've been told by Dirk, at DPG offroad, the OME coils and shocks are a mild 2.5" lift, combined with the 1.25" BL and 1"mml wich should accommodate the 33's with no issues and give me good articulation. I asked about the Dana 30/44 and he said it would be no issue for DD. Basically it would be a lower set up than what i am currently have. Lower, but much better quality of course.

http://dpgoffroad.com/products/old-man-emu-super-ultimate-tjlj-wrangler-kit/

 

[lovemachine]

I just want to say that I hate my jeep too. It's been my daily driver since I bought it brand new in 2005. And it has cost me so much money over the years. And yet it brings a smile to my face every time I see it, every time I sit behind the drivers wheel. And I can't bring myself to sell the stupid thing.

Damnit I hate that thing.

 

[Rob80x]

I have the RC X-Series lift. The crap ride is all in the shocks. Swapped the RC shocks for a set of Rancho RS5000x shocks for $200 (they have a $50 rebate going right now making the upgrade $150) and it was money well spent. Feels like a whole new lift now.

 

[lovemachine]

I also started out with a crap lift kit. Skyjacker. And when I was ready to spend the money into a better system, I went with the 4" savvy/currie.

It was a hard decision, because of the money. I'm not a rich man. It was either savvy, or the OME from DPG. I went with savvy because I knew it was an investment into a better rig, and that I would keep the jeep forever.

Haven't regretted it since.

 

[JMT]

From what I've been told by Dirk, at DPG offroad, the OME coils and shocks are a mild 2.5" lift, combined with the 1.25" BL and 1"mml wich should accommodate the 33's with no issues and give me good articulation. I asked about the Dana 30/44 and he said it would be no issue for DD. Basically it would be a lower set up than what i am currently have. Lower, but much better quality...

This is exactly the build I'm going for. Just put on my 2.5" OME springs yesterday and relocated rear trackbar. Didn't buy the Nitro shocks as I already had some Bilstein 5100's. I'm very pleased with the results. I got more than 2.5" bc my stock springs were so tired. You'll be ahead of me with SYE and DS and money to go all the way...

Here's the build page if interested...

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/build-order.3998/page-6

 

[SolarCool TJ]

I have the RC X-Series lift. The crap ride is all in the shocks. Swapped the RC shocks for a set of Rancho RS5000x shocks for $200 (they have a $50 rebate going right now making the upgrade $150) and it was money well spent. Feels like a whole new lift now.

Hmmm..another possible short term solution worth trying

 

[SolarCool TJ]

Yeah, I'm kinda torn between the savvy/currie complete kit, or the OME combo, bl and mml.

can anyone breakdown the pro's vs cons between a total suspension lift versus a combo bl/mml

I'm thinking the combo is more of a lower center of gravity compared to an all suspension lift.

 

[glwood]

Well I'm not thrilled about having to pony up give or take $3k for a new system. But the shocks and springs are most likely the main culprits. Yeah, i could probably live with the control arms, but the rest would have to go...i.e

drop pitman arm
front trackbar
rear trackbar

So, at that point...what the hell, might as well scrap it all. there is no doubt that the CA's will end up giving me issues eventually.

Depending on your ultimate goal for spring height, the rear RC track bar might be fine. I am running their adjustable rear track bar with 2-2.5" OME springs.

 

[glwood]

Yeah, I'm kinda torn between the savvy/currie complete kit, or the OME combo, bl and mml.

can anyone breakdown the pro's vs cons between a total suspension lift versus a combo bl/mml

I'm thinking the combo is more of a lower center of gravity compared to an all suspension lift.

A combo, BL + MML negates the need for a sye, CV driveshaft, and adjustable control arms, usually, due to the lower spring lift. Not to say that some still might need those if they experience drive line vibrations.

 

[xxdabroxx]

33" tires you want about 4" of lift, 35" tires you want about 5. A body lift is required for many other upgrades if you so desire, tummy tuck, raised gas tank skid, extended shock towers, etc.

 

[SolarCool TJ]

I have the RC X-Series lift. The crap ride is all in the shocks. Swapped the RC shocks for a set of Rancho RS5000x shocks for $200 (they have a $50 rebate going right now making the upgrade $150) and it was money well spent. Feels like a whole new lift now.

Rob...i read your profile. did you swap the shocks when you still had the RC coils? i noticed that you changed the coils to 2''. was that before or after the shocks? also...did your RC lift look something like this? this is what the tape reads at the rear wells, not mention the 3/4" difference between passenger and driver side

 

[SolarCool TJ]

33" tires you want about 4" of lift, 35" tires you want about 5. A body lift is required for many other upgrades if you so desire, tummy tuck, raised gas tank skid, extended shock towers, etc.

dabrox...if can run 33's with the OME combo, and can run 33's as well with suspension only, w/no bl or mml wich would be the better option, other than a future tummy tuck?

 

[lovemachine]

dabrox...if can run 33's with the OME combo, and can run 33's as well with suspension only, w/no bl or mml wich would be the better option, other than a future tummy tuck?

What are your future plans for the TJ? Are you sticking with 33's? Ever plan on going 35's? Are you going to wheel it on more difficult trails?

If you're just wanting to run 33's and stay on pavement, I'd go with the OME.

If you plan on going a little more crazy, I'd go Savvy.

The Savvy/Currie opens up more options. The OME keeps your options limited.

 

[Rob80x]

View attachment 14542 View attachment 14543
Rob...i read your profile. did you swap the shocks when you still had the RC coils? i noticed that you changed the coils to 2''. was that before or after the shocks? also...did your RC lift look something like this? this is what the tape reads at the rear wells, not mention the 3/4" difference between passenger and driver side

With the 4" RC coils and shocks I was running a 35" tire. I had 6" front and 7" rear between the flares and the top of the tires.
Remember, the spring holds up the weight, the shock controls the ride.

 

[JMT]

Yeah, I'm kinda torn between the savvy/currie complete kit, or the OME combo, bl and mml.

I'm thinking the combo is more of a lower center of gravity compared to an all suspension lift.

I would agree with your last statement. I'd also agree with others that you just need to decide what you want to be able to do with your Jeep. "Build your rig for the trail." This differs from region to region. If the OME will do it then go that route. If you have future bigger plans go for the Currie, even if it's only a slight possibility now, you don't want to buy all over again!

 

[xxdabroxx]

What all is on your Jeep now? Do you have adjustable control arms and a SYE? Do you have a transfer case drop?

If I was starting from scratch I would include a BL & MML, but that is for where I want to end up someday. The BL/MML give you a better rear driveline angle that is needed when you raise the belly up and can also help avoid a SYE/DC driveshaft with lower lift heights (from what I understand, I'm no expert by any means. I just know what has worked for me and what I've learned on the internets over the last year and a half). When you do revise your lift you should also take the springs and rubber bump stops out and cycle the suspension with shocks on through its whole range of motion. One tire down, one up, both up, etc. for both axles then use what interference's you find there to determine your bump stop lengths. A stock TJ had about 4" of up travel from the factory and I wouldn't want to go any less than that for ride quality purposes. I'm currently at 4.75" but would like more in the future.