I've re-done the break in without any noticeable change, so I think they are good. I just hate my brakes right now.
Try it again with a lot more enthusiasm and longer cool down between the stopping sessions.
I've re-done the break in without any noticeable change, so I think they are good. I just hate my brakes right now.
By "difficult" Blaine likely meant he will make you an offer and add to your choices (you really have only 1 imo)![]()
How much of a difference is there frim 15" to 16"?
Try it again with a lot more enthusiasm and longer cool down between the stopping sessions.
Enough that if I didn't have sell the 15" kit because folks are stubborn about rim sizes, I wouldn't. I'd discontinue it.
I blame discount tire, I can fit everything in my 15" wheel but they can't follow the simple instructions to keep weights outside the two scribed lines on my wheels.
Everyone seems to get smarter with the proper application of a few swats with a baseball bat.
What I have done to break these in is to find a 1/2 mile stretch of road without traffic. Acceelerate to 40-45 then on the brakes and try to flip over the front axle. Repeat until I see smoke coming from the wheels, then take a 20 mile drive on the highway to cool them. Is there a better method?Try it again with a lot more enthusiasm and longer cool down between the stopping sessions.
What I have done to break these in is to find a 1/2 mile stretch of road without traffic. Acceelerate to 40-45 then on the brakes and try to flip over the front axle. Repeat until I see smoke coming from the wheels, then take a 20 mile drive on the highway to cool them. Is there a better method?
Stock shit can't take it.
Have you posted it before? Or have it documented somewhere else on the internet?You need a good foundation for hydroboost to work, the stock brakes and knuckles are not it.
Hydroboost is great, I wish I could include it with every brake kit. But, the problem with it is it makes very high pressure into the caliper. The stock caliper, knuckle, and even the pads will eventually die a horrible death. The cast ears typically bend first, then the end of the brake pad backing plate folds over, then the caliper bends the guide sleeve bolts. You need a good foundation for hydroboost to work, the stock brakes and knuckles are not it.
This is how you know you're dealing with a standup guy, he'll tell you to make sure before you spend money with him.
I blame discount tire, I can fit everything in my 15" wheel but they can't follow the simple instructions to keep weights outside the two scribed lines on my wheels.
Is there a better method?
SOOOO I was browsing and just saw your post @mrblaine, I have a hydroboost brake setup on my TJ because my first diesel engine didn't create any vacuum (mechanical Kubota Turbo diesel engine). My currently diesel engine, Volkswagen TDI, has a vacuum pump on it, should I remove my hydroboost setup and go back to a vacuum setup and possible look into upgrading my brake calipers with one of your kits in the future?
I'm running 235/85r16 tires on 16 wheels from a Jeep Liberty. 3.73 gears with a Ford 6r80 6-speed auto that was a granny low first gear as well. Not sure you need that information or not, just provided it if you did.
Thanks
Grant
Only because I don't need to sell it since Vanco Power Brake Supply does an awesome job if anyone is in need.Last time I looked at your site, I noticed it missing from the product list.
Frank Z on here, before he left as a member was one. His Amber Fire TJ with the V8 swap used the HB from whatever truck he got the motor from. He worked his pretty hard and ruined the knuckles. I've personally bent the ends of the pads over.Have you posted it before? Or have it documented somewhere else on the internet?
Frank Z on here, before he left as a member was one. His Amber Fire TJ with the V8 swap used the HB from whatever truck he got the motor from. He worked his pretty hard and ruined the knuckles. I've personally bent the ends of the pads over.
Hydro boost doesn't change the rules for good braking. You have to size the system for what you are doing. You can use HB to cheat some if you are reluctant to change rim size to run a larger brake kit. We've had to do that before. The biggest challenge is getting a steering pump in that can handle the extra demand especially when you add in a big bore steering gear and assist cylinder.Wondering what a good setup looks like and what it supports tire size wise and axle size wise.
You're fine, you aren't working the stock parts that hard. It is only when you start working the wheel side of things hard that the problems show up.
Reading this thread reminds me just how great this forum is.
Hydro boost doesn't change the rules for good braking. You have to size the system for what you are doing. You can use HB to cheat some if you are reluctant to change rim size to run a larger brake kit. We've had to do that before. The biggest challenge is getting a steering pump in that can handle the extra demand especially when you add in a big bore steering gear and assist cylinder.
What knuckle does Currie have for the 44?And I’m guessing the Currie knuckles(swapped 44)
I'm confused. All of our big brake kits provide new knuckles and solid mounting for the saddle mount 2 piston calipers in various sizes. Not sure where the JK and JL stuff comes from.or the JK/JL knuckles paired with JK/JL calipers or Ram calipers provide a solution to the Dana 30 knuckles/caliper issues?
Yes and no. The problem is once you move to that pump, you need the reservoir and cooler. HB takes more support than is feasible financially which is why I don't have it set up to be included with brake kits. You're likely adding 2 grand to add HB.Are the PSC pumps your go-to?