Interior Maintenance Restoration and Repair

Actually that was @mots with the great write-up on the Noico install. 👍
Thanks @Chris it was your idea to post it in right section! I am still very happy with the product and the outcome. The hood-liner was an important component as well and is still holding up great. I may take it another step further this summer and add the headliner (popular one?) and a 2nd layer of Noico insulation product like you did.
 
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How well did the match up for you? I ordered some a few months ago, but haven't gotten to my project yet.

I think it turned out good. This is my first attempt and painting interior pieces though. I used 2 or 3 (can’t remember) light coats of SEM adhesion promotor and then 3 light coats of the SEM Khaki color coat . To me, the textured pieces look better than the smooth door panel plug. If I come across a textured on that will fit I’ll probably redo those. All pieces started out black.

I hope I can get my door panels to look as good.

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I don't recall the use of adhesion promoter or UV protection in paint in your write up. If you did my apologies. I used adhesion promoter on my flares. And several other parts on the interior. It's highly recommended by several advanced painters and SEM themselves. Possibly other manufacturers. Also SEM comes in different versions. And only some of their paints are UV protective. I'm sorry I don't recall which ones. This would hold useful for almost all the interior plastic as it all gets sun damaged. At least along the top of the dash and door panels. I think there is a clear coat range of SEM products that contain UV protection. So you can also do a flat or satin clear coat over whatever you paint. And most suggest doing so anyway.

Replacing the seats is an easy solution to old worn out ones. As long as you use the original brackets you can swap to and from early and late model seats. Except for the rear. Different brackets in the tub between the two. You may also want to mention the use of Tiberon or other seats. As well as good aftermarket brands. Forgive my overworked brain. I worked 23 hours yesterday. And am wrecked. I don't recall the brand name of those aftermarket seats everyone loves. It's not PPG but some acronym like that.

You might want to also mention the use of Misch Big Boy brackets and/or seat lifts. When I say seat lifts I mean those metal or plastic blocks that you can put under your seat to raise them. I don't use them as I'm 6'3". But many do. I do use the big boy brackets and they are a life safer for those with long legs.

I did a write up on ACC carpet a while back. I'll see if I can find it. There are a bunch of how tos and posts on Bedrug etc. But ACC is by far the thickest pile you can get. Which ads insulation and better wear over time. And just a more luxurious feel to it. And it's way cheaper than the Bedrug. Not good for hosing out though. ;)

Also @Chris 's write up of Noico sound deadener. There are a couple good write ups about sound deadening. But I think Chris's use of Noico products was spot on. And he took great pics of the outcome. Had Noico been around (or I had known about it) at the time. I would have bought Noico. Sound deadening is a great option for those of us that don't have to hose out our tubs. Again...;).

That's about all I can think to possibly add off the top of my head. Sorry I wasn't more specific with links and such.
Good suggestions for the thread. I did mention adhesion promotor in step 6 of prepping and painting, but it may be helpful to add the mentions up further also.

After posting , I've thought about adding what you've mentioned with the seats and such. With parts quickly being discontinued, we need a section for alternatives for sure.
 
I think it turned out good. This is my first attempt and painting interior pieces though. I used 2 or 3 (can’t remember) light coats of SEM adhesion promotor and then 3 light coats of the SEM Khaki color coat . To me, the textured pieces look better than the smooth door panel plug. If I come across a textured on that will fit I’ll probably redo those. All pieces started out black.

I home I can get my door panels to look as good.

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Very nice. That did turn out good. Hopefully I can get to mine soon and get it added in here.
 
Thanks. I’ve go a little info on some crack repairs in another thread, but I’ve been working on a full write up completely about the doors but have been waiting until they are completely done. The doors are at a friends house who is going to paint them for me. I’ve got the interior panels cleaned, prepped and repaired, just waiting until I have plenty of time and a little warmer weather to paint them.

You‘re welcome to use any of the info.
 
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I think it turned out good. This is my first attempt and painting interior pieces though. I used 2 or 3 (can’t remember) light coats of SEM adhesion promotor and then 3 light coats of the SEM Khaki color coat . To me, the textured pieces look better than the smooth door panel plug. If I come across a textured on that will fit I’ll probably redo those. All pieces started out black.

I hope I can get my door panels to look as good.

View attachment 141728
View attachment 141729
View attachment 141730

Very nice job. I use the same technique and materials. Please post your write up link when you have it.
 
The first post now has a section for parts alternatives. I've got it so that it shows a reference page for pictures and details that are shared.

So, here's the first. Again, thanks to @GaTechTJ for the Dorman info.

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Before I knew of the Dorman part, I ordered a pack of button bumpers off of ebay. LINK

As you can see in the picture, the dimensions in the description aren't correct. They got the right numbers, they just used them wrong. The diameter of the narrowest point is 0.38", which makes it fit snugly into the 0.25" hole. The downside is their height. They aren't as tall as the OE bumpers. Their height isn't a problem, just personal preference. I may try GaTechTj's adjustment method at some point.

These are made up of dense rubber. Far more dense than the original that I took out.

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Here's a really great resource video for repairing light or severe scratches in our plastics:

I have never used this repair putty, nor have I used the SEM 38353, but I'm intrigued. If any of you have used them, let me know your thoughts.


Here are a couple of links to products used in the video:

Deluxe Materials "Perfect Plastic Putty"
SEM Products "Plastic and Leather Prep" (part number 38353)
 
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All of talk of interiors got me inspired to go out to start getting a game plan together for my crash pad. While I was out, I figured I'd grab the SEM Khaki that I had so that I could finally test it out. Here's what I'm looking at.

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I did a test spray on the underside of the crash pad.

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The thing that drove me to give SEM a call, months ago, was these two very different looking colors below.

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The one on the right appeared to be closer to what I have, but it had an obviously different label, and wasn't showing on their site or it stores, but it was readily available on Amazon.

It turns out that the one I spoke with on the phone was THE guy, the one that is head of color creating. He told me that he vaguely recalls running into "this" problem before with the khaki color, but had no advice. He had a sales rep call me. To shorten the story, it led to the rep suggesting a custom mix from one of their dealer sites.
 
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I remember thinking the cap looked way darker than my current interior, but after I sprayed those small pieces it looked better. I think the texture makes it match better, compared to a smooth piece.

How do yo plan to have a custom mix matched?
 
I remember thinking the cap looked way darker than my current interior, but after I sprayed those small pieces it looked better. I think the texture makes it match better, compared to a smooth piece.

How do yo plan to have a custom mix matched?
Just for the sake of trying, I sprayed a small section of the top side of it that drops down behind the firewall. It did look a little better, but still a really big difference.

At some of their dealers that mix automotive paint, they will do it. I'd never known before a couple months ago, but Advanced Autoparts has stores that are based solely on automotive paint and body work. Pretty cool store. Unlike other places, they have probably 50+ different colors right on the shelf.

Anyway, that's the place. The kicker is that it's pricey. I brought in my speaker grill so they could use it to pull the color from for matching. The kicker is that it's pricey. They told me $80 for one pint. That's a decent amount, considering it has to be sprayed using spray gun. That price is still hard to swallow though.

Carquest Autoparts sells SEM too. So that's another possibility for anyone reading.
 
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I got some helpful info yesterday. I got back in touch with them at SEM Products. I was initially referred to the 15833, but I showed the results that I had with the 15833, so he went back in to research it. He came back and told me that the 15833 was in fact a lighter shade that was used in 2008, and then told me that our color needs to be mixed. The color for that is shown in the "Trim Codes Formulas" on their resource page that I sent a link to.

Here's the one showing our khaki (PN: 5545):
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Another helpful bit of info that I found out yesterday was another source for getting this done. The company is "Vinyl Pro" in Atlanta, GA. I went to their website and found the prices to be quite a bit less than what I had been paying (roughly $23.00/can), for SEM Color Coat. They will mix the color you and put it in an aerosol can for you.

I just got off the phone from ordering a can of the 5545, so I will update with the results when it gets here.
 
The middle section of that bottom picture is the 5545 and the lighter part on the right is the 15833?
That's right. I just flipped the trim piece again, and sprayed the 5545 off to the left this time. Even to the naked eye, it's difficult to see where it was sprayed. I took the close-up picture to try showing where it was sprayed. In that picture you can see the color of the plastic and the 5545 side-by-side.