Interior Maintenance Restoration and Repair

With some paints, they can also be used on pliable surface also. Surfaces like, vinyl and fabrics. Even when used on these surfaces, can give great results that will have the material looking nearly new. Your results will weigh heavily on the prep work done prior to painting.

As for the SEM Products brand, for some of the older colors codes of our Jeeps, visit their Classic Coat products. For all others, go to their Color Coat products. If you don't know the color code for your TJ, you can look your Jeep's label to get the code. The label should be located in the driver's door jamb.

@bedhed

Thanks so much for this post. Huge time-saver. Will post here again if I ever have anything to add.

For now, I'm wondering about the part I've quoted above. Do you have recommendations on which SEM line (or other brands) to use for the most flexible interior surfaces, like the 'canvas' cover of the soundbar? In another thread, Jerry recommended dye rather than paint. Just wondering what you used if you've done any work on something more fabric-like, such as the soundbar cover, inside of a soft top, or perhaps even the carpets, etc.

Thanks again.

Edit: p.s. My door tag in my 97 SE says that my interior is "K5T6". Does this mean that I have both Camel and Saddle colors in my interior? I see that in your example of door-jamb codes, you paid attention to the last two digits, but not the first two (P5 for you). So should I ignore the K5 part too?
 
Last edited:
@bedhed

Thanks so much for this post. Huge time-saver. Will post here again if I ever have anything to add.

For now, I'm wondering about the part I've quoted above. Do you have recommendations on which SEM line (or other brands) to use for the most flexible interior surfaces, like the 'canvas' cover of the soundbar? In another thread, Jerry recommended dye rather than paint. Just wondering what you used if you've done any work on something more fabric-like, such as the soundbar cover, inside of a soft top, or perhaps even the carpets, etc.

Thanks again.

Edit: p.s. My door tag in my 97 SE says that my interior is "K5T6". Does this mean that I have both Camel and Saddle colors in my interior? I see that in your example of door-jamb codes, you paid attention to the last two digits, but not the first two (P5 for you). So should I ignore the K5 part too?
Sound bar cover I would use dye like Jerry suggests. I dont think they are very expensive to replace though. I've had friends who painted their carpet and it looked ok but wasnt durable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
@bedhed

Edit: p.s. My door tag in my 97 SE says that my interior is "K5T6". Does this mean that I have both Camel and Saddle colors in my interior? I see that in your example of door-jamb codes, you paid attention to the last two digits, but not the first two (P5 for you). So should I ignore the K5 part too?

@bedhed

Ok, I think I figured this one out. The Trim Code is four digits because the first two digits are actually the style of seats (cloth, leather, etc.). So in my case, "K5" is not a color code, but rather the code for my seat type. "T6" is my interior color.

That also lines up with the answer I got when I called my local Jeep dealer parts dept today and gave them my VIN. Apparently they have access to a different build sheet than I've found online myself, because he was able to tell me that my interior color was "Saddle", whereas my own build sheet did not specify. And yep, the codes you provided say that T6 is Saddle Tan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
So, talked with Mark at Vinyl Pro and he sent me a chip chart. Looks like Rooscooter nailed it with the Mist Gray.
And, looks like the Agate will match the instrument panel. Will buy a couple of cans from Mark and give it a whirl
So did the Mist Grey from Vinyl Pro work for you? Having a tough time finding the color match for the C3 interior. SEM says that their #4940 (Mist Grey) is not available in aerosol per the following:

"We do not manufacture that formula in aerosol and you will need to get a local to mix it for you. if you need help finding a place that mixes (and can put the color into an aerosol if necessary) let us know your city/state and we will get our rep for your area to assist."
 
This thread is for all things related to the maintaining, repairing, restoring, cleaning, and parts replacing of our TJ's door and trim panels, consoles, carpet, seat covers, roll bar covers, etc. Hopefully a one-stop thread for many questions that come up. I know there are some things related to sections here that are floating out there in the forum. I've found some and shared their links in the related section, but I'm guessing I haven't found them all. If you have, or know of any that aren't linked here, share the link.

To keep you from having to scroll through to find new info, see the layout below. It will show the date that it was last updated, and what was added.

Restoring, Refinishing, and Repairing
Restoring: updated 2/21 new
Refinishing: updated 4/5 Two-tone color codes, Member projects
Repairing: updated 2/23 new

Parts Replacements and Preventative Maintenance
Replacing Parts: updated 2/22 new
Parts Alternatives and Sources: new 2/23
Preventative Maintenance/Cleaning and Detailing: updated 3/5 What NOT to do



Restoring, Refinishing, and Repairing

Restoring:
In some cases where trim panels have begun to have a white, chalky-like surface, some have had success in using baking soda to bring back the original surface and color. Baking soda acts as a mild abrasive for removing that chalk-like top layer. With many ABS pieces, the plastic is dyed to the color that we see. So, in some cases, just because the panel appears faded, the fading may not be very deep into the plastic. Using abrasives like baking-soda on trim panels is similar to color sanding auto-body paint. Clear-coats fade, but color sanding removes that damaged top layer, returning the exterior to a new look. Unless of course the damage is too deep. In that case, the surface will need to be refinished. The same goes for our plastic panels.


Watch the video below to see how this guy's TJ dash turned out. Night and day difference!

Restoring with Baking Soda


Thanks to @moab for sharing the video link.

Member project links:
Door panel restoration using baking soda
@Bionic_Scorpion

**More restoration info will be added as we get more. Share what you've got.**


Refinishing:
If restoring has failed or you just choose to refinish your plastics, spraying them with a quality color coating can bring great results. Me personally, I would go this route when there are no other options. The reason I say that is because it applies thin layer of great, but easily damaged paint. Easily damaged compared to the solid colored plastic.

I have only used SEM Products for painting automotive panels, and I can say that they have some great products.

Some other available brands:
  • ColorBond LVP - General colors and limited options
  • Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric - General colors and limited options
  • VHT Vinyl Dye - General colors and limited options

With some paints, they can also be used on pliable surface also. Surfaces like, vinyl and fabrics. Even when used on these surfaces, can give great results that will have the material looking nearly new. Your results will weigh heavily on the prep work done prior to painting.

As for the SEM Products brand, for some of the older colors codes of our Jeeps, visit their Classic Coat products. For all others, go to their Color Coat products. If you don't know the color code for your TJ, you can look your Jeep's label to get the code. The label should be located in the driver's door jamb.


Here's a picture of mine as an example:
View attachment 141550

In this example, my trim color code is J3.


You can also visit AutoColorLibrary to help you pinpoint your code, as well as other interesting data on OE colors used around your Jeep. Note that, unless specified, the colors shown in their library are colors used by Chrysler, on other models of that year.

If you are still having troubles in finding the specific color that you need or want, visit the "Formulas" section on the SEM Products website. From there, you can either choose to see codes by year or see color cards. On that same page, you can select to download the formulas themselves. That can be taken to a site that does custom mixing.

Example from Formulas download. Search PDF file for key words if needed.
View attachment 141570

Side Note:
Don't trust the color seen on the cap. I spoke with one of the guys at SEM Products who advised to not rely to heavily on the color of the cap. Reason being is that the caps are sourced out to another company, so the colors that are infused into the cap's plastic is only their best effort at matching the request from SEM Products.

Chrysler Color Codes:
The listed codes are from those that were used in the TJ and in other Chrysler models. I've listed the additional colors to hopefully help clear up any confusion with mismatching paint.
AZ/LAZ - Agate (up to 2002)
C3 - Mist Grey (up to 2001)
J4 - Moss Green (up to 1998)
K5/RK5 - Medium Camel (up to 1999), Camel (1999), K4/RK4 - Light Camel (2000)
T6 - Saddle Tan (up to 1998)
DV - Dark Slate Grey (2002-2006), DB - Light Slate Grey (2002-2006), D5 - Medium Slate Grey (2004-2006)
J3/ZJ3 - Khaki (2003-2006), J8 - Dark Khaki (2006)
X9 - Landau Black

Chrysler Two-tone Color Combinations:
Note: The color codes listed in the below image are those used in all Chrysler vehicle models. Within these, are the codes for our TJ models. You will need your color code to find it's corresponding custom-mix product number.

Click the image to view larger.
View attachment 150668





If any of the info on color codes is incorrect or missing something, let me know so I can update or change what I have.


My personal observation of Landau Black:
I know that Landau Black was used by Chrysler, but I can't recall the info showing when and where they used it. I believe that it was used for the "black" trim bezels in some (or all?) of our TJs. Here are a couple of images showing the color and why I believe that it was used for that purpose.

Judging a color by looking at it on a monitor is always a bad idea. Most especially when the color is represented by another site or company. I kept that in mind and pulled these three different versions of black from the website for SEM Products, then adjusted the saturation to bring out the colors that aren't always easy to see. Landau isn't quite as dark as the other blacks, so it tends to show it's blue undertones in brighter lighting. It also doesn't have the red undertones that other blacks have either.

View attachment 141552

Here is a close-up of my center dash bezel. With the bright light on it, a clear difference can be seen between the black color of the bezel and the black color of the controls.

View attachment 141555


One more. Here's a picture I came across that shows an entire color change that someone did, using Landau Black.

View attachment 141556

In some projects that I've done, I've sprayed parts black, but the black turned out to be too black. I think the Landau looks really good in there, even with it being sprayed everywhere.

More details on Black colors used by Chrysler: See page 4


Prep and Paint


Products and/or Tools:
  • Dawn dish soap
  • Basic cotton rag or Microfiber towel
  • Isopropyl Alcohol (I've also used Windex with success. Be sure that it contains Ammonia)
  • Scrubbing pad (important details on Scotch Brite and similar pads below)
  • Nylon scrub brush
  • Paper Towels (Those least likely to leave lint behind. I prefer to use blue shop towels)
  • Tack Cloth (for removing lint and/or free-floating debris) optional
  • Adhesion promoter (list below)
Adhesion Promoters:
SEM Products "Sand Free" #38363
  • Unique wet-on-wet adhesion promoter for ABS, PVC, and similar plastics.

Note on other adhesion promoters:
SEM Products "XXX Adhesion Promoter" #77723, SEM Products "Plastic Adhesion Promoter" #39861, and Rustoleum Primer Adhesion Promotor #251572 are advertised as being best for olefin based plastics, and have no mentions of other pastics. Despite some of our plastics visually appearing (to my eye) to have some sort of infused polymer, I have not seen any parts that were stamped as being made up of such. All that I have seen, thus far, is stamping that shows them as being made up of either ABS, Polycarbonate and ABS blend (PC/ABS), or Polypropylene (PP). So, I'm not 100% sure on their effectiveness/longevity on our plastics.

Chemical Alternatives for precleaning:
SEM Products "SEM Solve" #38373 20 oz. Aerosol
  • Effectively removes adhesive residue, wax, grease, road tar, oil, silicone, paint overspray and bug remnants
SEM Products "Plastic and Leather Prep" #38353 16 oz. Aerosol
  • Removes mold release, fingerprints, grease and oil
  • Promotes adhesion of topcoat
  • Will not soften or distort plastic parts
SEM Products "XXX Universal Surface Cleaner" #77771 Quart
  • Helps eliminate static
  • Exceptional grease-cutting power
  • Multifunctional for primed or painted surfaces, leather, vinyl, plastic, aluminum, and bare metal

1. Thorough prep work for painting plastics is critical! When you think you have prepped enough, just do it again. It's better to put in a little extra prep work now to prevent poorly bonded paint. The time spent prepping will seem like a walk in the park when everything begins to have flaking paint.


2. Clean the surfaces using a rag, using warm (if possible) water and dawn dish soap. It wouldn't hurt to go back over the entire panel with soap and water, but this time using a soft to medium bristled scrub brush. No metal bristles. Nylon bristles.


3. Repeat the same as above, only this time use a fine grit scotch-brite pad. Those that are blue in color and sold for general purpose household cleaning will work, or you can go to Home Depot or Lowe's and pick up the grey pads. The grey pads at those places will have a label, from fine to course. For this you will want the fine grit. Be very thorough when going over the panel, covering every inch, and getting into all of the corners and tight places.


4. Let the piece/s dry, then use your choice of (safe) degreaser to wipe the piece down, using a microfiber towel, or blue shop towels. We're looking for something that won't leave "lint" or fibers behind. I have used both Windex(with Ammonia), and Isopropyl Alcohol and had good results. Just no harsh chemicals that will damage the plastic. Be cautious with touching the surfaces with bare hands, so you don't leave any oily prints behind. Probably not a bad idea to throw on some latex or nitrile gloves.


5. If you have access to compressed air, this would be a good time to make sure there are no hidden puddles of water in those tight places. Place the panel in the area you plan to spray, making sure it's at a level that you can easily spray without difficulty. This is a personal preference, but it isn't completely necessary. At this stage, I like to use tack cloths to wipe down the piece before spraying, to remove any lint, cloth fibers, hairs, etc.. Even if there is something left behind, with this paint being as thin as it is, and drying as fast as it does, it's amazing what you can easily wipe off before your next coat.


6. Next, it's a good idea to use an adhesion promoter. If no areas are in need of being masked off, go ahead and get both your adhesion promoter and color shaken up and ready. First coat will be the adhesion promoter. Adhesion promoters and their drying time are different, so follow the instructions on the can. When you're making passes with your color coat, make light coats. SEM paint isn't heavy, so going fast isn't necessary. Just make sure that each pass is putting down a light coat. Follow the instructions on dry time, then return with more light coats. Repeat until you are content with the results.


Note on chemicals and plastics:
Here's a helpful chart that can be of use prior to repairing plastics, or prior to prepping plastics for paint. In the case of cleaning or prepping for paint, taking note of how a specific chemical's effect can prevent unnecessary damage. When doing repairs, this can also be of use. As I mention later, you can make these "severe effects" work in your favor.

Since ABS, PP, and PC are the plastics that we will be dealing with, I have modified the chart a little, so as to make it better suit the thread's purpose and make it easier to read through.

Click the image to enlarge
View attachment 144324


Confirmed Colors
J3/ZJ3
- Khaki (2003-2006):
- SEM Products #5545 (Must be custom mixed). Thread Page: 3
- SEM 15833 is commonly referred by sales reps. for our TJ, but this color is not correct. 15833 was a 2008 color.
DV - Dark Slate (2002-2006):
- SEM Products #17373. Thread Page: 3
[URL]https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/sahara-interior-color-code.6561/post-490869[/URL]


Product Sources
Vinyl Pro (Atlanta, Georgia - You can call them with your SEM "Trim Color Formula" number and have it shipped to you in an aerosol can. They are a large distributor of SEM Products, and carry the full line of products at great prices.


Member project links:
Door Panel, Dash, and Bar Fabric Refinishing @Tjs TJ
SEM Khaki used to refinish door parts. Pages 1 and 2. @MountaineerTom
PPG Products Agate, used on various interior plastics. Page 3. @TJRick
Color Bond (Ford Black). Thread Link. Completed interior @Lilbomb
Color Bond, used on various interior parts @DuncLJ
SEM Landau Black, with Low Luster Clear. @mrblaine
SEM (custom mixed) Khaki used on door panels. @Rick deCastro
SEM 15173 (Camel), with SEM 13023 Low Luster Clear used on various parts. @csierra88





Repair:
As of now, I know of two parts that are notorious for problems. The crash pad and the door panels. The crash pad/defrost vent cover in our TJs becomes very brittle with age. Once the plastic reaches a certain level of brittle, one tap from a finger on the vent guard "bars" and they break. There are several ways to tackle the fragile defrost vent problem. You'll just need to choose what material, plastic or metal.

Here are some ideas and/or options used by others:
Metal Rain Gutter Guard at Home Depot or Lowe's
PVC Coated Plastic Chicken Wire Mesh on Amazon or other online sources.
Expanded Metal at McMaster-Carr Supply, or simply search online for Expanded Metal.
Wire Cloth at McMaster-Carr Supply, or again, just search online for Wire Cloth.

Depending on the severity of your broken vent guard, you may be able to get away with adding some structuring on the bottom side of each plastic "bar" by using some type of adhesive, like Epoxy. That can be found in easy to use syringes at any hardware store. You can also use a combination of metal rod or solid core wire secured to the underside of the grill pieces using Epoxy. Considering this method for your repair means that you are one of the lucky few that still have the majority of your vent guard remaining.


If you haven't seen it yet, here's the underside of the crash pad:
View attachment 141559

Like many, if not all of the interior plastic panels, the crash pad is made up from ABS plastic. On the positive side of this, ABS is really easy to work with.

You can use a heat source for removing the vent deflector from the underside, as well as for bonding your new guard onto the trim panel. Using a "plastic welding kit" will be the least destructive method for removing the vent deflector, because it retains the material to be used later, unlike cutting or grinding. The same goes for reinstalling the deflector. If that type of tool is used, you can reheat and shape the retained plastic to better secure the deflector into place. You can purchase a plastic welding kit at most hardware stores. They are essentially just a soldering iron that has removable tips that are designed for cutting, shaping, and bonding plastics. If you're careful, using a small butane torch for your heat source, along with something like a flat-heat screwdriver to achieve similar (if not identical) results.

Adhesives can also be used, like the epoxy mentioned earlier. Again, epoxy for bonding plastics can be purchased at any hardware store, among other places. Since we're working with ABS, it won't require any specific or uncommon off-the-shelf epoxy. Another adhesive that I like to use for nearly any project is Cyanoacrylate, aka CA Glue, or Super Glue. The best way to use CA glue, IMO is to use the two-part method, which requires the adhesive to be sprayed with an activator before it will harden. Something like this kit on Amazon. Using this method not only helps control the drying situation, but it causes the glue to harden in less than 2 seconds. Best of all, this method prevents your plastic from being stained by the fumes of slow-curing CA glue, leaving a small to very large white power looking haze on the plastic. An alternative to the two-part CA glue involves baking soda, again. If you choose to go with common CA/Super Glue instead of the two-part method, you can greatly increase the curing time and prevent the staining white haze, just grab up a little baking soda between your fingers and sprinkle it over the glue. The downside to this is, when the glue cures, it has very rough, rock-like feel. Not a huge problem though, just sand it down if needed.

Another one that I like to use is one that can be made at home and make for any very strong bond. What it is, it's basically liquid ABS plastic. I use a glass jar that I started by tossing in scrap pieces of ABS plastic. If you don't want to use glass, you can use plastic, just make sure that it is stamped HDPE. With my ABS-filled glass jar, I pour in some acetone. Acetone can also be purchased at any hardware store, and is useful for many projects. After you have poured in the acetone, close the lid and you're finished. Let it sit. Acetone very quickly begins to liquify ABS plastic, which will have your container left with a liquid form of the same material as many of your trim pieces. You can control the thickness of your ABS slurry by simply letting the acetone evaporate out, or pour more in. It's that simple. Using this ABS slurry between two pieces of ABS causes the solution to liquify the surface of both parts, leading to a fusing of the two.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) also works very well, but evaporates much more slowly. If a slower drying time is what you prefer, MEK can tpically be found at the same location as the acetone. On a side note, if you want to use acetone for small projects, and don't want to buy a large can, "Professional grade Goo-Gone" is sold in small, lighter fluid-type cans, pint sized cans, and aerosols. Just check the ingredients to insure that the one you are buying contains acetone.

Repair ideas and suggestions
- "How To Repair Scratched & Gouged Interior Trim & Match TEXTURE Perfectly!" (Youtube video): Page 2


If you have any adhesive recommendations, share them.

Member Project Links:
Broken Defrost Vent/Crash Pad @Equilibrium31
Upper Door Panel Crack @AndyG
Upper Door Panel Crack @TJ4Jim
Upper Door Panel Crack @Tjs TJ



Parts Replacements and Preventative Maintenance

Replacing Parts:

Sources for used parts
Car-Part.com, Davey's Jeeps and Parts, Forum, ebay, Craigslist
There are definitely other sources. We can update the list when those source names come to mind and are shared. You can also watch this thread "Looking for used parts for your TJ?" to get notifications on any new sources.

Sources for new parts
Many dealerships also sell parts online. Searching for Mopar parts will bring up several sources for new parts. Here are a few that I have used many times, and have no complaints. Try checking the Mopar sites for contact info. From there you should be able to pinpoint what dealership it is that is selling the parts and their location. That may help in finding one closer to you and reduce shipping cost.

Mopar Parts Overstock, Mopar Online Parts, Rock Auto, Mopar Parts Giant
Remember to check another source for pricing. I've recently bought from one of the dealership sites that had a cheaper price than Rock Auto.

Parts alternatives and Sources
Stop/Bumper - Glove Box Door (Part Number: 55315051AA) Page: 2
- Dorman GM Rubber Bumper Assortment (Part Number: 961-375D) Thanks to @GaTechTJ
- If those become unavailable, alternative "Button Bumpers" can be found online for 0.25"(1/4") OE hole diameter.



Preventative Maintenance/Cleaning and Detailing:

In my opinion, our plastic trim pieces require the most attention when it comes to preventative maintenance. With these parts being constructed from ABS, their continuous exposure to the elements makes their deterioration inevitable. When these plastics aren't routinely cleaned, those surface contaminants can act as catalysts for excited deterioration of the plastic. Basically, these interior plastics deteriorate fast enough as it is. Not routinely cleaning them only makes that worse.


The sensitivity of polymers to UV radiation:
(Click the thumbnail to view the full image)
View attachment 142583

Cleaning Products
Meguiar's® Ultimate Protectant, G14716, 15.2 oz., Spray
Meguiar's G17914 Gold Class Rich Leather
Folex Carpet Spot Remover, 32 oz
Tuff Stuff Fabric and Carpet Multi-Purpose Foam Cleaner (22 Ounces)
BISSELL Little Green Pro Heat Carpet Cleaner


I don't routinely detail my interior. I've actually gotten pretty lazy with cleaning it at all. But, when I do detail it, I'll start by pulling out the air compressor and blasting off the brunt of the dust and dirt, while making sure to hit all of the little cracks and crevasses. After that, I use a mildly fine-haired detail brush to go back over all of the little cracks and crevasses, around the radio's buttons, air vents, etc.. After that, I follow up with some off-the-shelf cleaner and protectant. For the plastics and steering wheel leather, I've been using Meguiar's Products that I've included below.

As for the carpet, I have used Tuff Stuff (link listed below) for over 20 years, and I can honestly say that I have only come across one stain that it didn't remove. Although, I have recently been using Folex Carpet Cleaner and I have been very pleased with the results. It works extremely well for stains.

Carpeting
As we get more details on other methods, we can update this section.
Depending on the level of carpet detailing that I'm doing, I do the following:
1. Using a combination of a vacuum and nylon scrub brush, I use the brush to lift the fibers of the carpet and bring any embedded sand to the surface. Then vacuum the carpets, entirely.

2. Coat the carpet in a layer of Tuff Stuff or Folex and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Afterwards, I go back over the carpet using the same method as before, using the nylon brush. Any dirt and/or sand that was previously left behind will be brought to the surface to be vacuumed out.

3. With the newly brought out sand and dirt, I will vacuum the carpet once more. For areas that see more foot traffic, or other light stains, I repeat the process with applying the foam later and following up with the scrub brush.

4. After all has fully dried. I spray a light coat of Scotch Guard (link listed below) over the fabric.

If I am doing a more thorough carpet cleaning, I will skip that last process and use a portable extractor. I have been using one made by Bissell that works very well. I've put the link to it in the list below.

Fabric Seats
As we get more details on other methods, we can update this section.
With my seats, I only use Tuff Stuff or Folex for spot cleaning. Again, depending on the level of attention/effort I'm putting into cleaning the seats, I will either vaccum, then spot clean with Tuff Stuff or Folex, or I will break out the extractor. Just as I do with the carpet, once the seats have fully dried, I spray a coat of Scotch Guard over all of their fabrics.


I'm no professional, so take this info as you will. If you have any suggestions or methods, please share.
It doesn't sound like it from what I've described, but I do enjoy detailing. I oftentimes watch the "Car Cleaning Guru" on YouTube. If there are any videos or websites that you feel will be helpful, share that too.

It's been a while since I've read into different products and their efficacy, so I don't have a specific brand to recommend. The most important would be it's ability to protect from UV rays. For my personal preference, what is equally as important is for the product to not leave everything with a glossy shine, nor an oily residue. Both of the Meguiar's products check those boxes, so I have continued to use them.

What NOT to do:
  • Using ammonia or ammonia-based products, like Windex (unless labeled as being ammonia-free) can damage some plastics, stripping them of any OE films, and/or cause small fractures in the plastic.



If you all know of any good products, ideas, or methods for this section, let me know. I'll add them here.

I know this is old, and I haven't read all the replies. But what do others recommend for just basic maintenance of our interior vinyl pieces, like the dash or center console or interior door panels. Just good old Armor All or is there something the protects better?
 
I know this is old, and I haven't read all the replies. But what do others recommend for just basic maintenance of our interior vinyl pieces, like the dash or center console or interior door panels. Just good old Armor All or is there something the protects better?

I learned about 303 on this forum and that’s what I use.
 
I know this is old, and I haven't read all the replies. But what do others recommend for just basic maintenance of our interior vinyl pieces, like the dash or center console or interior door panels. Just good old Armor All or is there something the protects better?

I use AmmoNYC Lather. Frank’s line of products are incredible and designed to restore and prolong the life of your vehicle
https://ammonyc.com/collections/interior/products/ammo-lather-interior-cleanser
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
First off, this thread is incredible. Packed with ridiculously helpful information. Thank you to everyone who has contributed!

Now a couple of questions. Has anyone done touch-ups with the Vinyl Pro products? I’ve got some light-colored scratches that I’d love to address. Wondering how it would come out if I prepped the areas by blotting and then lightly blotted with color. I might have to test it out.

Next question — wondering how these paint jobs have held up? Is the paint fairly durable? How does it react to being wiped down when cleaning?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
First off, this thread is incredible. Packed with ridiculously helpful information. Thank you to everyone who has contributed!

Now a couple of questions. Has anyone done touch-ups with the Vinyl Pro products? I’ve got some light-colored scratches that I’d love to address. Wondering how it would come out if I prepped the areas by blotting and then lightly blotted with color. I might have to test it out.

Next question — wondering how these paint jobs have held up? Is the paint fairly durable? How does it react to being wiped down when cleaning?

I don’t know about the touch-up part. Lightly blotting with a little sponge type brush might work well.

As far as durability. I’m happy with mine. It’s been 2-1/2 years now and I got a small chip/scratch on the passengers side map pocket area shortly after painting them. I haven’t done anything with it at all, but it hasn’t gotten any worse though. I may try your blotting idea on it though.
 
I don’t know about the touch-up part. Lightly blotting with a little sponge type brush might work well.

As far as durability. I’m happy with mine. It’s been 2-1/2 years now and I got a small chip/scratch on the passengers side map pocket area shortly after painting them. I haven’t done anything with it at all, but it hasn’t gotten any worse though. I may try your blotting idea on it though.

Honestly, the way I’ve seen it go on, quick light sprays might even work too. Prep a large area around the scratch then quick light bursts of paint over the top near the scratch. Gonna have to get myself a can of prep and 5545 to give it a whirl!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
Finally ordered from Vinyl Pro to turn my tan half door cards to khaki.

Ordered the following:
5545 khaki
77723 xxx promoter
sp38353 plastic & leather prep


I spoke with Robin at Vinyl Pro and she asked if I was working on a jeep. She said it's a very popular color and they sometimes have this already mixed. She said the SEM soap really isn't needed if it's plastic and relatively clean. That the promoter and the prep would work great. Very nice folks and highly recommend them.

Thanks for the resources and contributions in this thread!
 
Quick question- I have a 2003 with Khaki interior. The PO put a black Tuffy locking glovebox in that I would like to paint Khaki. Should I just order the 5545 and ensure they understand I need it for paint on metal, or is there an OTC color that's pretty close for metal? My assumption here is that they can give me 5545 in a metal paint anyway.
 
Quick question- I have a 2003 with Khaki interior. The PO put a black Tuffy locking glovebox in that I would like to paint Khaki. Should I just order the 5545 and ensure they understand I need it for paint on metal, or is there an OTC color that's pretty close for metal? My assumption here is that they can give me 5545 in a metal paint anyway.

I don’t know what you “should” do, but I can tell you what I would do, and that is, I would order the 5545 in a metal paint if they have it, but I don’t think it matters. I would rough up the powder coat I’m assuming it came black, and use an adhesion promoter on top of it, and then paint.
 
Thanks! Vinyl Pro is sending me out a couple of cans.

Question! I know this is old - but there are a couple colors for mist grey on vinyl pros website - which one ended up working best for you? Match pretty good?

Looking to paint my door panels here mist grey but am not sure which one to click send on via vinyl pros site.