Savvy mid-arm is my first choice but I’m concerned about the install. Their instructions are pretty lame and I’ve read more than once if a mid arm is not done right it’s going to suck. I contacted Savvy and they referred me to a shop 200 miles away (I’ll be in Florida for the next 2 years). I don’t mind the drive and this shop has done a couple mid arms but I don’t know Jack about suspension geometry and won’t know if it’s done right-I’ll spend the money but that’s my only reservation.
Is a Savvy mid-arm kit (3-link front and 4-link rear) safe for the road?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
The install is really difficult to screw up. Where a shop or the home guy will ruin everything is on the outboard and all the supporting mods and fitting that make the mid arm perform at its highest level.
Basically, if the rest of the Jeep isn't built to handle what the mid arm is capable of, then the mid arm by itself is a waste of time and effort.
the directions are clear on where those brackets need mounted. and starting link lengths are given.
1 might assume if Savvy recommended the shop they should know what they are in for and how to do it.
are you going to move the rear upper shock mounting location while your at it? or the rear upper spring pads?
do you have the body lift needed for the new brackets to fit in the proper locations?
1 might assume if Savvy recommended the shop they should know what they are in for and how to do it.
are you going to move the rear upper shock mounting location while your at it? or the rear upper spring pads?
do you have the body lift needed for the new brackets to fit in the proper locations?
I’ve got the Savvy body lift and a brown dog mm lift. I was thinking about outboarding or maybe even coil overs-any ideas on which of those is better for the mid arm? And didn’t the EMC winning LJ have stock shock locations?
That is a decision separate from the mid arm. If you are keeping the stock axles, then I suggest an outboard. If not, then you are likely looking for more than what a traditional outboard typically provides.
This one? No.
Yeah, maybe not
From what I understand the Rubi lockers are pretty good and should handle my 35s. I planned on keeping my stock Rubicon axles as is until I break something then figured I’d upgrade the shafts-a full axle swap was not on the menu.
I’m waiting for an estimate/consult with the Savvy recommended shop here in Florida. Guess I’ll start from there.
Thanks guys
Yeah, maybe not
From what I understand the Rubi lockers are pretty good and should handle my 35s. I planned on keeping my stock Rubicon axles as is until I break something then figured I’d upgrade the shafts-a full axle swap was not on the menu.
I’m waiting for an estimate/consult with the Savvy recommended shop here in Florida. Guess I’ll start from there.
Thanks guys
Rubi lockers are fine until they aren't. I have ruined two rears and I intend to get rid of the front eventually.
That's it. Without the body lift big holes would need to be chopped all around the tub. Keep in mind that if the t-case and gas tank skids don't also require a body lift, then there is no reason for the mid arm.
Not sure I follow. A few years ago, I started building an LJ with an LS swap that had a bunch of different parts. It was a short arm, but I used the factory gas tank skid and an UCF skid with the Chevy 6 speed auto and the factory transfer case. None of it needed a body lift to clear the tub.
If you have factory skids, then you aren't using the Jeep in any way that warrants a change in control arm mounting locations. The same applies to a center skid that doesn't require a body lift.
I think @jjvw is saying that unless you wheel in places where a tucked tcase skid and raised gas tank skid is really needed, you don't need to build for a savvy mid-arm.
Ok. I understand what you guys mean. Here is the short story. Had an LJ and started the build like I had mentioned above. I then made a stupid mistake and sold it. It got built into a six figure amazing rig well beyond anything I'll ever need. Second mistake; bought a JL. Not a fan. Recently, I picked up another LJ. 70K on the clock with a damn near mint interior and a rotten frame. I rolled the dice and bought it sight unseen from out of town. Lesson learned.
Today, I got lucky and found a rust free frame locally for $850. I couldn't believe it. My plan now is to build the the suspension, drivetrain, etc... on the new frame while I continue to drive and enjoy the stock LJ. Once I'm mostly done with that, I'll migrate the body over. I'm torn between doing short arms or just building a mid-arm setup. This will not be my daily driver. This is a toy for trails when the wife and I travel to various spots around the US. Probably going back with the Chevy V8 because I can't help myself.
If all you want is to have it on the Jeep because you can, then all you need is an 1.25" body lift. Preferably aluminum.