Lever action rifles

[Northwood]

I think it's worth it. But then I shoot stuff, and in volumes, that kind of make it necessary. Start out with getting a Lyman reloading manual, and read all the information in the front about reloading. That will give you an idea of what it's all about. You can produce better ammunition for your particular firearm for less cost than anything the factory can provide. The difference in cost and accuracy is astounding. You can tune your ammunition for accuracy for a specific firearm. Or you can crank out a ton of generic ammunition for your firearm for way less than factory. It all depends on what you want to do. I hunt with a .458 win mag at the moment. That's about $100 a box of twenty retail right now. I reload .458 for about 18 cents a round, and my groups are half to one third the size I can get with factory ammo. Same with 8mm Mauser, same with 45 ACP and all the rest. The wife's 7mm mauser shoots one hole groups on occasion with reloads. But then, she's a good shot and the rifle is exceptional.

@StG58 I'm thinking about getting into reloading. I have been for years actually, but it was always something I only talked about and never did. I've got a Lyman manual on the way and just beginning my research, so any info you have or recommendations on equipmemt will be greatly appreciated if you'd like to share! A new thread wouldnt be a bad idea if you had the spare time.

I'm mostly interested in .357 mag at the moment and probably looking for a bare bones set up as space is at a premium and I don't want to move more shit when I move in the next year (I have too much shit).

Any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated, especially on how one might fit everything they need into a shoe box, which sounds very intriguing!

 

[StG58]

@StG58 I'm thinking about getting into reloading. I have been for years actually, but it was always something I only talked about and never did. I've got a Lyman manual on the way and just beginning my research, so any info you have or recommendations on equipmemt will be greatly appreciated if you'd like to share! A new thread wouldnt be a bad idea if you had the spare time.

I'm mostly interested in .357 mag at the moment and probably looking for a bare bones set up as space is at a premium and I don't want to move more shit when I move in the next year (I have too much shit).

Any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated, especially on how one might fit everything they need into a shoe box, which sounds very intriguing!

That we can do @Northwood, that we can do.

 

[JMT]

Absolutely nothing practical. I have more than one rifle that is primarily suited for hunting. Between my Marlin 336 30-30 and my H&R 7mm-08 I put about 10 rounds a year through those guns, because they just aren't economical to shoot. But they will take care of any white tail in Minnesota well beyond any range I will ever see and that's what I use them for. I've never taken a deer outside 100 yards and never had the opportunity to in the brush that I hunt. Inside 100 yards I think it would be well within the .357 limits to bag a white tail, although that wouldn't be it's primary purpose.

What I don't have is a long gun that is somewhat economical to just go out and shoot for a good part of a day (other than a Ruger 10/.22 which gets old quick) and that's mostly what I'm looking for. Also eventually will pair it with a revolver of the same caliber just for shits and giggles.

I wouldn't be opposed to a .44 caliber but then I believe we're getting out of the "economical to shoot realm" correct me if I'm wrong.

I had the same issue. Only two rifle rounds are economical and effective on a variety of game. Both military rounds, .223 and .308. ~.30cents a round (for FMJ). For where I live the white tail are small. I went with a Tikka .223. Couldn't have chose better for the money. Light in the field. Accurate as hell. I us a practice round that has similar ballistics to my hunting round. I shot one out to 175yds this last season. She didn't run 50 yds.