He was disagreeing with your "nobody really needs 4:1" statement above. I agree with him on that.
I agree the Zone 4.25" combination lift would be a good choice. It's real hard to beat a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift for 33" tires.
Lift Question for 33's
- Thread starter Breto31
- Start date
I agree the Zone 4.25" combination lift would be a good choice. It's real hard to beat a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift for 33" tires.
3.5” metalclock suspension lift with sye & t. woods rear driveshaft. not sure if sye was necessary but, did it to make sure i had no vibes. off roads well and goes down the road straight. saving for gears at this point.
2.5" lift and 1.25" body is a good cheap combo for 33s.add an mml and you might get away with no sye.
Downside is your ground clearance and uptravel will be crap.
my tj came with that setup and 1/2" front spacers when i bought it.it needed an sye. I plan on a tummy tuck soon.35s and all the supporting mods in the distant future.
Downside is your ground clearance and uptravel will be crap.
my tj came with that setup and 1/2" front spacers when i bought it.it needed an sye. I plan on a tummy tuck soon.35s and all the supporting mods in the distant future.
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We ran 31s on two inch pucks and new shocks for a decade. We did a SYE and a tummy tuck to improve ground clearance. Hellava combination. Lots of fun open open. The winch would pull my wife out of tight spots. I bought a set of 33s on the JK 17" rims on the cheap. I had to get wheel adapters to mount them. The adaptors pushed the tires out enough that they do not rub. I was surprised by that. This is a TJ, not an LJ so I am not sure what variances might pop up. My goal was to go with flat fenders and see if the 33s would fit with the 2" pucks, but turns out I didn't need the fenders. I have since removed the pucks and stock springs and replaced them with 3.5" springs. I have more height than I need. After I get my flat fenders installed I am going to try and lower it to a 2" lift and see how it goes. My problem is the additional weight of the hardtop, rack, rooftop tent, camping gear and tools. I am trying to find the sweet spot.
I guess my point is that a two inch lift may work for you. Once you install it and get it on the trail, you may find that it doesn't. Keep an open mind and look at problems that may surface downstream.
I guess my point is that a two inch lift may work for you. Once you install it and get it on the trail, you may find that it doesn't. Keep an open mind and look at problems that may surface downstream.
Fingers crossed for you.
I have a 2.5 SL.... 1.25" BL... with a .75 (10mm) spacer up front.
Ended up needing sye to remove vibes... even after an mml.
One thought on this.... my experience going from 31's to 33's.... is that 33's are a money pit.
It was much easier optimizing jeep performance on 31's than 33's.
All I did was the MML. No SYE or TC drop. I have no vibes with the OME ultimate kit.
I run tires pretty close to 31" but am realistic about it. Budget boost and some shocks, sure. Control arms and you've gone off the deep end. The only point I was trying to make is that if you've spent more running 31" tires than you can run 33" tires for you might have made some poor decisions.
Gotcha... good point.
Running 31's in an optimized way should cost less than 33's properly done.
I would say 31's with a 2.5 SL, possible mml, aussie locker and sway bar disconnects, are the best bang for your buck setup.
Building a properly done 33" setup can open a can of financial worms. (Regear,sye,linkages, control arms, need for more tire clearance, etc...)
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