Lower spring perch trimming

In the last two photos (of post #2) it looks like you have some aftermarket control arms. These were used to change the pinion angle, which is why your having shock clearance issues. The question is why was the pinion angle changed, and does it still need to be where it is currently set?

That’s not my Jeep.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don’t have any pictures of mine, but they are trimmed straight across.
 
Update. I was able to get mine on without trimming. The way I was jacking it up, messed with the pinion angle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
Noticed when doing a tire rotation this AM that after my Dana 44 swap my shock clearances changed and now it’s hitting the perch. Should I trim the perch first and see where that leaves me or go straight to relocation brackets? 2.5” lift in the rear. My pinion is not rotated.Thanks

Driver
80827

Passenger
80826
 
Noticed when doing a tire rotation this AM that after my Dana 44 swap my shock clearances changed and now it’s hitting the perch. Should I trim the perch first and see where that leaves me or go straight to relocation brackets? 2.5” lift in the rear. My pinion is not rotated.Thanks

Driver
View attachment 80827
Passenger
View attachment 80826

Trim the perches. quick work with a die grinder.
80830
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeep 541X and JMT
Thanks J. I’ve got an angle grinder and disc. Would that work? Straight across cut?

Should. You'll need to pull the spring and get the shock out of the way. Make 2 cross cuts, then a vertical down cut as far as you can, then take some pliers and wiggle it off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeep 541X
Should. You'll need to pull the spring and get the shock out of the way. Make 2 cross cuts, then a vertical down cut as far as you can, then take some pliers and wiggle it off.
398DBFEF-A9FA-4FB0-94A4-3BDB51AC5444.jpeg

I’m also trying to figure this out. Was able to make the two cuts with a reciprocating saw. Do I have to be concerned about the sparks with a cut off wheel to make the last cut ?(gas tank ) Or is there a more efficient way ?
 
If you're concerned about the gas tank, throw a damp towel between it and the sparks. I've never bothered despite all the grinding and welding I have done in that area.
 
For the time being, yes.

On my old Rubicon with 4" of lift, trimming the spring perches was enough.

However, with this one, the 4" lift plus the tummy tuck pushed it past the point of no return.

There's a lot of little issues like this that come along with the tummy tucks that most people (myself included) don't think about before they start it.
Hey Chris, you are right about that. I have recently done a Savvy TT and Dana 44 Swap. My pinion angle is now wayyyyyy back and I am having to make some compromises...I had to go to a smaller shock now that I have lost some travel due to the axle and upper spring perches being so far off (I posted a thread about this a few days ago). I also have the rear shock axle relocation brackets, but want to use the stock ones if possible. How long did you run your set up until you did the shock relocation and what compromises did you have to make if any?

20211108_171901.jpg
 
Hey Chris, you are right about that. I have recently done a Savvy TT and Dana 44 Swap. My pinion angle is now wayyyyyy back and I am having to make some compromises...I had to go to a smaller shock now that I have lost some travel due to the axle and upper spring perches being so far off (I posted a thread about this a few days ago). I also have the rear shock axle relocation brackets, but want to use the stock ones if possible. How long did you run your set up until you did the shock relocation and what compromises did you have to make if any?

View attachment 289688

You're not at full bump in this photo. But easy to see your axle is not positioned correctly. Extend the lowers, shorten the uppers if you can and try again. FWIW--I have the tummy tuck and was running into similar issues. The answer was to shave everything off the axle and clock it all forward to accommodate.

IMG_20160702_155124478_zpsmbxkyfur.jpg
fad5a18284b40c631e7e31b0a6f5ff83.jpg
9479c1a93c7f7748ff9da9c7196b3a83.jpg
 
You're not at full bump in this photo. But easy to see your axle is not positioned correctly. Extend the lowers, shorten the uppers if you can and try again. FWIW--I have the tummy tuck and was running into similar issues. The answer was to shave everything off the axle and clock it all forward to accommodate.

View attachment 289690View attachment 289691View attachment 289692
Yeah, that was about as far as I could go before my diff was hitting the gas tank and my rear track bar started hitting. I was getting my temporary shock length and didn't want to push it. I ordered some 3" bumpstop extensions in the mean time before i have to pull the axle and revisit everything. I tried to get it all done before i had a hunting trip and now i am trying to make it work without bottoming out the rear shocks like i currently am... I am going to try and make it work until i can save up for a mid arm lift, outboard shocks and relocate upper spring perch...Never ends :ROFLMAO:
 
The axle is also clocked back so far to try and line it up with my driveshaft angle as straight as possible. I will have to look into all of that as well.