Bolt length should be 2.5” and I usually use a “thick” washer out front.
I'll check it. It is the bolt and flag nut and washer that came with the Currie track bar.Bolt length should be 2.5” and I usually use a “thick” washer out front.
You could always sell it to me for pennies on the dollar...Nope. Bolt wasn't touching. I was able to slide a piece of paper between it and the axle tube. I'm going to try to adjust caster at this point because I don't know what else to do.
Yes. I know I'm just grasping at strawsAre these the same wheels and tires you had on before the axle swap? Alignment angles don't cause DW btw.
No. When I built up the courage to take it on the highway and get it up to 70 mph, it was smooth as glass, as long as I didn't hit a bump LOLWow that is frustrating. I would start with the balance. do you feel any other shimmies while driving?
recheck torque on EVERY bolt in your front end. You might have one stretched and not holding properly. That happened to me once. I had a stretched control arm bolt in the rear end. I went through and torqued everything but it had a clunk. I couldn't figure it out for the life of me, so I took it in. The guy drove it, and found the source in about 10 minutes. He retorqued everything and in the process, the bolt broke. Viola!No. When I built up the courage to take it on the highway and get it up to 70 mph, it was smooth as glass, as long as I didn't hit a bump LOL
The nut is torque to 75 foot pounds. I did have a second set of hands. There is play in the passenger side but there is zero play in the driver side.The gap between the boot and the knuckle means nothing. Pump it with grease and it will go away. Is the nut tight? Is the lateral play in the balljoints? Helps to have a second set of hands for these things.
I know the gap between boot and knuckle can change but I'm more referring to the distance between knuckle and inner C. It is noticeably larger on the passenger side. Does that matter if the bolt is properly torqued to 75 ft lbs? If it matters then I'll measure with a caliper. What is acceptable tolerance/difference when seating the knuckle?The gap between the boot and the knuckle means nothing. Pump it with grease and it will go away. Is the nut tight? Is the lateral play in the balljoints? Helps to have a second set of hands for these things.
This is a good question for @mrblaineI know the gap between boot and knuckle can change but I'm more referring to the distance between knuckle and inner C. It is noticeably larger on the passenger side. Does that matter if the bolt is properly torqued to 75 ft lbs? If it matters then I'll measure with a caliper. What is acceptable tolerance/difference when seating the knuckle?
I just remembered Blaine already answered this the other day.This is a good question for @mrblaine
The acceptable tolerance for lower ball joint play is 1/16" vertical play which most develop in a very short number of miles. How easy the pin moves is not an indicator of wear or imminent failure. The upper pin floats up and down about 1/4" or so and the lateral play that is acceptable is less than .003" or basically no perceptible lateral play.
Not of high importance but the lack of dust shields move the unit bearing about .040 inward and that can cause issues with tolerance stacking and put the caliper saddles too far off center on the the rotor. Not often but sometimes you will have to clearance the pad clips by bending the little ends over tighter to keep the rotor from dragging on them.
Ok. I believe I was holding it between 11 and 1. So I'll try again tonight.if its the unit bearing you should be able to feel the play by holding the tire at 12 and 6 and also 9 and 3 o'clock. You should be able to feel the play no matter how you hold the tire and wiggle it. But if its the balljoint you should really only feel it by holding it at 12 and 6.