Mid-arm LJ Rubicon

Since the majority of the build is complete I’ve been fine tuning everything (pinion angles, cycling suspension, alignments, and cleaning and rerouting all the locker lines and wiring)
very time consuming work but I am getting closer and more excited to take it out for a off-road test run! I love the belly height and profile of the mid arms combined with the savvy skid plate!
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So long story short. I cannot get the rear driveshaft happy. I’ve been fighting it since I finished the lift. Assuming the Savvy Tummy Tuck raised the T-case about 3-4” plus the added 4” midarm, 7-8” total lift was added to the driveline angle.

I’m planning to place an order for a Tom Woods CV Driveline, unless someone can talk me into something better!

The Jeep looked a little goofy driving around tonight with the stock springs in the rear. 😂 The driveline wasn’t throwing vibes...more so a groaning noise. Took a minute to narrow down what was the culprit. Finally resorted to putting stock springs back on to see if the noise went away...sure did!
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Sunny Side Up said:
So long story short. I cannot get the rear driveshaft happy. I’ve been fighting it since I finished the lift. Assuming the Savvy Tummy Tuck raised the T-case about 3-4” plus the added 4” midarm, 7-8” total lift was added to the driveline angle.

I’m planning to place an order for a Tom Woods CV Driveline, unless someone can talk me into something better!

The Jeep looked a little goofy driving around tonight with the stock springs in the rear. 😂 The driveline wasn’t throwing vibes...more so a groaning noise. Took a minute to narrow down what was the culprit. Finally resorted to putting stock springs back on to see if the noise went away...sure did!
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At the lift height even an LJ will most often need a double cardan. If you go with Woods you might ask them about using a JK output flange so you are not stuck with the oddball TJR flange pilot. I will cost you a little extra now but makes the ball flange less expensive to replace in the future.
 
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Blackjack said:
At the lift height even an LJ will most often need a double cardan. If you go with Woods you might ask them about using a JK output flange so you are not stuck with the oddball TJR flange pilot. I will cost you a little extra now but makes the ball flange less expensive to replace in the future.
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Thanks for the tip! Are you talking about the output flange on the T-Case?
 
Sunny Side Up said:
What other benefits are with the JK flange versus the TJ Rubicon flange?
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Other than allowing the use of more readily available parts not much. The JK flange has a two inch pilot so it allows a multitude of choices for components. If all you are going to run is a 1310 double cardan you can use a JK 1310 CV yoke as well.
 
Blackjack said:
Other than allowing the use of more readily available parts not much. The JK flange has a two inch pilot so it allows a multitude of choices for components. If all you are going to run is a 1310 double cardan you can use a JK 1310 CV yoke as well.
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Good to know! I’ll have to check it out quick. I’m hoping to get this things back going ASAP!
 
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Finally got just about everything dialed in. No more vibes. The Jeep drives very nice! I am impressed with the street manners. I’m waiting for a nice weekend to run it to little Moab for a test day. Next big trip is the 2021 EJS!
here are a few final pictures, now I’ve got to decide if the diff cover is going on the front or rear axle 🤔
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Sunny Side Up said:
Finally got just about everything dialed in. No more vibes. The Jeep drives very nice! I am impressed with the street manners. I’m waiting for a nice weekend to run it to little Moab for a test day. Next big trip is the 2021 EJS!
here are a few final pictures, now I’ve got to decide if the diff cover is going on the front or rear axle 🤔View attachment 219214View attachment 219215View attachment 219216View attachment 219218
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I’m curious as to whether the Motobilt cover would fit on the front and not interfere with the track bar during suspension up travel and the rear hitting the factory tank during up travel as well.
 
Your tracbar and diff cover will probably become your new bump stop.

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Gear break in period is about done, as noted above, I know front diff clearances will be tight. I’m leaning to putting the Motobilt cover on the rear. I will get a height comparison when I pull the stock cover back off.
Put a finishing touch on tonight, I like the look of simple windshield banner. Thanks to Gerald for hooking me up with the decal!
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Captain Phoenix said:
Did you outboard your rear shocks?
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I haven’t yet. I do have the Genright rear shock out board kit on the shelf!

It will likely be a project for next winter when I have saved up for some shocks. Ideally I’d like to do the front at the same time too.
 
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