Mid-arm LJ Rubicon

37’s. I’ve seen some shafts that allow you to run 1480 u joints. Tempting for 40’s…I still have time before I jump into that rabbit hole.


392’s have front CV joints factory. Time will tell if they need to be stronger. I am assuming the long side is 1 piece since the FAD is not there. I will know more as I get into it.

Rears are full floating shafts. RCV makes chromoly replacements. Will roll the dice on the factory ones for the time being.


From what I can gather online, there will be a 3-4” void between the axle tube where the FAD casting is. After chatting with Blaine I’m planning to fill the void with a similar size material to the factory tubes, then clam shell from the center section to inner C with a piece of 3”x.120” DOM.


Yes, I don’t want to cut the short side. I will clam shell over with 3” DOM just to match the long side.

I didn’t realize the rears were full float, is it still 5x5? How much caster is stock?
 
37’s. I’ve seen some shafts that allow you to run 1480 u joints. Tempting for 40’s…I still have time before I jump into that rabbit hole.


392’s have front CV joints factory. Time will tell if they need to be stronger. I am assuming the long side is 1 piece since the FAD is not there. I will know more as I get into it.

Rears are full floating shafts. RCV makes chromoly replacements. Will roll the dice on the factory ones for the time being.


From what I can gather online, there will be a 3-4” void between the axle tube where the FAD casting is. After chatting with Blaine I’m planning to fill the void with a similar size material to the factory tubes, then clam shell from the center section to inner C with a piece of 3”x.120” DOM.


Yes, I don’t want to cut the short side. I will clam shell over with 3” DOM just to match the long side.

Take lots of pics, plz. I'm looking forward to this
 
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I've re-geared those before. They have a ball bearing tailt housing bearing that was prone to failure if not set up correctly. You can now find a tapered roller bearing replacement.

I’ve read about this! Thanks for the heads up, I’ll plan changing this when changing gears.
 
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Looking forward to watching your build with these!

Because I still drive mine a lot on the highway I opted to keep the FAD, I trussed it with the Artec kit, time will tell if it holds up to Nitto 38" Trail Graps. I went RCV in the front as well. I'm at the "Building my draglink, then track bar" stage.

I also found a set of Rock Jock high steer knuckles on FB Market to replace the aluminum knuckles. For right now I'll run a RPM aluminum tie rod with Steer Smart ends... I don't like it... but it's what I got for now.

Then shock hoops for the coilovers, and then my gas bumps.

It's been a serious learning curve for Mr. Amature Hour here, but only way I can learn is dive in and get to doing it... Mistakes and all.
 
37’s. I’ve seen some shafts that allow you to run 1480 u joints. Tempting for 40’s…I still have time before I jump into that rabbit hole.


392’s have front CV joints factory. Time will tell if they need to be stronger. I am assuming the long side is 1 piece since the FAD is not there. I will know more as I get into it.

Rears are full floating shafts. RCV makes chromoly replacements. Will roll the dice on the factory ones for the time being.


From what I can gather online, there will be a 3-4” void between the axle tube where the FAD casting is. After chatting with Blaine I’m planning to fill the void with a similar size material to the factory tubes, then clam shell from the center section to inner C with a piece of 3”x.120” DOM.


Yes, I don’t want to cut the short side. I will clam shell over with 3” DOM just to match the long side.

A very interesting build over in the FB group "Jeeps with JK JL axles". Devin Brandt used a JL steering box wich faces the pitman arm forward for his build.

1781114233935.webp


1781114493026.webp
 
A very interesting build over in the FB group "Jeeps with JK JL axles". Devin Brandt used a JL steering box wich faces the pitman arm forward for his build.

View attachment 693368

View attachment 693369

Devin bought some sliders from me when he first started building this jeep. We have been in contact through the whole process. His build helped push me into these axles. I don’t plan to change gear boxes, but it seems to be working really well for him.
 
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I also found a set of Rock Jock high steer knuckles on FB Market to replace the aluminum knuckles. For right now I'll run a RPM aluminum tie rod with Steer Smart ends... I don't like it... but it's what I got for now.

Interesting thing I have learned about knuckles.
XR models came with steel knuckles. While others came with aluminum. Mine have the steel knuckles already, but I started looking into Reid knuckles for higher clearance. Reid knuckles do not change the location of the tie rod. It simply gives you the option to change the direction of the drag link taper to run it over the knuckle. Rock Jock’s are the only set I have seen that actually raises the steering
 
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Interesting thing I have learned about knuckles.
XR models came with steel knuckles. While others came with aluminum. Mine have the steel knuckles already, but I started looking into Reid knuckles for higher clearance. Reid knuckles do not change the location of the tie rod. It simply gives you the option to change the direction of the drag link taper to run it over the knuckle. Rock Jock’s are the only set I have seen that actually raises the steering

Another thing I learned about the Rock Jock knuckles is that their mounting arms for the tie rod are also moved inboard, making premade aftermarket tie rods like Apex, RPM, Steer Smarts not fit. You can't get enough toe in. Don at RPM was kind enough to swap me out with a custom one, I just had to pay shipping.
 
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What problems have you been having with the offset TREs?

I fight their orientation. They are constantly flopping from sitting all the way down to all the way up. I don’t notice this while simply turning, but I have had the tie rod come in contact with rocks causing the joints to flip up.

I have yet to break an offset tie rod end but I cringe at the load being transferred into the side of the joint. Plus the extra leverage of the tie rod sitting in front of the center line.
 
I fight their orientation. They are constantly flopping from sitting all the way down to all the way up. I don’t notice this while simply turning, but I have had the tie rod come in contact with rocks causing the joints to flip up.

I have yet to break an offset tie rod end but I cringe at the load being transferred into the side of the joint. Plus the extra leverage of the tie rod sitting in front of the center line.

The tie rod I wanted, but they don't sell it individually. I may eventually end up making my own.
1781116762541.webp

1781116844079.webp
 
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Am I the only one that would be nervous about the pitman arm taking a direct hit in that orientation?

No. First thing I thought when I saw it. I'd be trying to find a way to box that thing in with a steering type of skid.
 
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