My First Jeep "LWB"?

[Dharmaroad]

I was bitten by the Jeep bug years ago but didn't start showing signs until about 6 months ago. Now I have the symptoms of constantly thinking about them and spotting them from miles away.

I'm ready to buy my first TJ and I'm researching all I can.

Can anyone give me feedback on buying a 2006 LWB?
Pros and cons?
Is the long wheelbase Ill advised or not?

Here is the vehicle I'm looking at http://888karplus.com/2006-Jeep-Wrangler/Used-Convertible/Pacoima-CA/9722365/Details.aspx


Thanks for your help
Gregg

 

[Chris]

Welcome to the forum!

The "Long Wheel Base" Wrangler is often referred to as the "LJ", or by it's official name, the "Unlimited" model. It was only manufactured from 2004-2006, and typically they sell for more than the short wheel base TJs. In recent years, clean LJ Rubicon models with low miles in pristine condition have sold for well over $30,000, and started to become something of a collectors vehicle.

The LJ has a few benefits over the TJ.

First off, the longer wheel base allows for less extreme drivetrain angles when lifting it, so you can get away with a larger lift without having to do things like a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) or transfer case drop.

Secondly, the LJ has considerably more interior space than the short wheel base TJ, which is great if you like to haul a lot of stuff on your trips. The trunk is noticeably bigger than the TJ, which is a big plus.

The disadvantage of the LJ is that with it's longer wheel base, it's more likely to get hung up on large rocks and such when rock crawling, though this is not an issue for most Jeep owners, unless you plan to do some really serious rock crawling (i.e. Johnson Valley).

That one you linked to looks clean, and assuming it's been a California vehicle it's entire life, you shouldn't have to worry about frame rust, which is undoubtedly the biggest thing to look for when buying a used Jeep Wrangler (stay far, far away from ones with rust on the frame). In addition to that, the price is right as well.

I think it really comes down to preference in all honesty. If you want the extra space, go for the LJ. If you like the look of the shorter wheel base TJ, go for one instead.

Check this thread out so you have an idea of what to look for with used Wrangler TJs and LJs:
What should I look for when buying a used Wrangler TJ?

And as always, feel free to ask as many questions as you want. There's a great bunch of folks here who are always very helpful, and extremely knowledgable.

 

[JMT]

Free Carfax, so I’d pull that and see where it’s been.

Check the frame for rust. Light surface rust is normal, but you don’t want internal frame rust that is rotting. TJs are known for this. Watch out for paint masking it. Read what Chris suggested. Mileage should be fine for the 4.0. Let us know! Come back and get active on forum. Very helpful! Will save you tons of money, and also spend it! LOL

 

[Mike_H]

I'd be careful at that dealer...Just a gut feeling, I don't have ANY idea who they are, but they've put non-TJ wheels on it (you can tell the spare is different), and it looks like the frame has been painted in the one pic where you can see the frame above the rear tire. The factory e-coating doesn't have much, if any, gloss to it and that picture looks pretty shiny. They also shot a bunch of that dealer plastic dressing gook all over the engine bay.

None of these items are inherently bad, but sometimes they are used to cover up clues to a rough life or damage. Why did they change wheels, have to paint the frame, etc.

 

[Dharmaroad]

Free Carfax, so I’d pull that and see where it’s been.

Check the frame for rust. Light surface rust is normal, but you don’t want internal frame rust that is rotting. TJs are known for this. Watch out for paint masking it. Read what Chris suggested. Mileage should be fine for the 4.0. Let us know! Come back and get active on forum. Very helpful! Will save you tons of money, and also spend it! LOL

Thanks so much!!

If the frame was recently painted I guess I won't be able to see how bad it is rusted?

Btw- this is west coast car, it has never left California.

 

[Dharmaroad]

I'd be careful at that dealer...Just a gut feeling, I don't have ANY idea who they are, but they've put non-TJ wheels on it (you can tell the spare is different), and it looks like the frame has been painted in the one pic where you can see the frame above the rear tire. The factory e-coating doesn't have much, if any, gloss to it and that picture looks pretty shiny. They also shot a bunch of that dealer plastic dressing gook all over the engine bay.

None of these items are inherently bad, but sometimes they are used to cover up clues to a rough life or damage. Why did they change wheels, have to paint the frame, etc.

I hear what you're saying, I would feel better buying from a private party. I have been looking for a LJ and all the ones for sale have already been heavily upgraded, which I don't mind but its a bigger investment upfront.

I thought I would get something cheaper and then slowly spend money on upgrades.

What are your thoughts on the mileage and price of this vehicle?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks so much!!

If the frame was recently painted I guess I won't be able to see how bad it is rusted?

Btw- this is west coast car, it has never left California.

Odds are good its frame is in good shape then being as it never lived in the salt belt. As Chris mentioned above, a longer wheelbase means you need a taller lift and bigger tires to get over the same terrain than the standard wheelbase TJ does, which is due to its "breakover angle".

So think about your needs... do you often carry back seat passengers and need that LJ's extra length for their gear, or is it usually just you and a passenger where the space behind the seats is more than big enough to carry your gear? I personally prefer the more maneuverable shorter wheelbase of the TJ, it has always carried all the gear I need for offroading.

 

[Dharmaroad]

Welcome to the forum!

The "Long Wheel Base" Wrangler is often referred to as the "LJ", or by it's official name, the "Unlimited" model. It was only manufactured from 2004-2006, and typically they sell for more than the short wheel base TJs. In recent years, clean LJ Rubicon models with low miles in pristine condition have sold for well over $30,000, and started to become something of a collectors vehicle.

The LJ has a few benefits over the TJ.

First off, the longer wheel base allows for less extreme drivetrain angles when lifting it, so you can get away with a larger lift without having to do things like a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) or transfer case drop.

Secondly, the LJ has considerably more interior space than the short wheel base TJ, which is great if you like to haul a lot of stuff on your trips. The trunk is noticeably bigger than the TJ, which is a big plus.

The disadvantage of the LJ is that with it's longer wheel base, it's more likely to get hung up on large rocks and such when rock crawling, though this is not an issue for most Jeep owners, unless you plan to do some really serious rock crawling (i.e. Johnson Valley).

That one you linked to looks clean, and assuming it's been a California vehicle it's entire life, you shouldn't have to worry about frame rust, which is undoubtedly the biggest thing to look for when buying a used Jeep Wrangler (stay far, far away from ones with rust on the frame). In addition to that, the price is right as well.

I think it really comes down to preference in all honesty. If you want the extra space, go for the LJ. If you like the look of the shorter wheel base TJ, go for one instead.

Check this thread out so you have an idea of what to look for with used Wrangler TJs and LJs:
What should I look for when buying a used Wrangler TJ?

And as always, feel free to ask as many questions as you want. There's a great bunch of folks here who are always very helpful, and extremely knowledgable.

Thanks so much Chris. I like the longer size.

I have a few more questions-

I was looking on this site: http://jeepwranglerunlimitedforsale.com/?s=2004+2005+2006

All of these vehicles are are $20k and above and well worth based on the modifications.

Do you feel the LJ in the link I sent is worth the price of $12,000?
Or am I better off spending more to get something that has already been upgraded. ( I felt it would be better to upgrade slowly as the initial investment would be less and my wife might not be so shocked if I only spent $11 or $12k)

 

[bobthetj03]

Personally, I rather find one that is unmolested, that way you can upgrade smartly, and to your own taste and offroad style. The price sounds right.

 

[Chris]

Thanks so much Chris. I like the longer size.

I have a few more questions-

I was looking on this site: http://jeepwranglerunlimitedforsale.com/?s=2004+2005+2006

All of these vehicles are are $20k and above and well worth based on the modifications.

Do you feel the LJ in the link I sent is worth the price of $12,000?
Or am I better off spending more to get something that has already been upgraded. ( I felt it would be better to upgrade slowly as the initial investment would be less and my wife might not be so shocked if I only spent $11 or $12k)

This is a tough one... With all the money I have put into mine, it easily, easily is more than 15k worth of parts. So if I were to buy a new TJ / LJ to replace mine, I'd be thrilled if I found one with all the modifications I wanted. Hell, I'd be happy to pay more for it with mods too (within reason), as long as they were not cheap mods from manufacturers with poor reputations (i.e. Rough Country).

So it's ultimately up to you. You can very easily sink 8k into mods on these things, so a lot of the ones you find for 20k with the mods are worth it, depending on a variety of factors.

Don't pay a premium for vehicles with crap quality lifts such as Rough Country, Sky Jacker, Zone, etc. If you're going to buy one with a lift, make sure it's from a very reputable company like Currie, Savvy, Metalcloak, Clayton Off Road, etc. As for bumpers and other stuff, Smittybilt is the cheaper, Chinese made stuff. If it has bumpers from the likes of Savvy, ARB, Dirtworx, etc., those are all high quality, American made bumpers.

In other words, don't let some guy convince you he's put 10k into mods on an LJ he's selling if it's got a Rough Country lift, Smittybilt winch, and Smittybilt bumpers. Those are low end parts, and while they might look good, they aren't going to carry the same value as the really stellar brands like Currie, Savvy, and others.

In most cases, I'd want a low mileage, unmolested TJ. But yeah, if I found a used TJ and they wanted 8k more for it than other stock ones because it had a Currie lift, Savvy skid plates, a Warn winch, etc., then hell yes I would pay 10k more for it (assuming it was in great condition). The parts really add up fast! My Currie lift alone was roughly $2800 with shocks, plus the Currie steering was another $600, then the tires were $1100, winch is another $800, bumpers are another $600+ easily... So yeah, it adds up real fast!

In other words, I wouldn't pay more for the parts unless it was unmolested, well documented, and they were top quality parts.

 

[JMT]

Thanks so much!!

If the frame was recently painted I guess I won't be able to see how bad it is rusted?

Btw- this is west coast car, it has never left California.

As @Jerry Bransford said above, since it never left CA, you should be good to go. Always do an inspection, of course. The price looks good for an LJ in CA. For perspective, in TX, I got my TJ for 12 with 46K a year ago. The LJ’s are much rarer and going for a premium these days, but if the frame has rust, stay away, far away. By rust I mean a ball peen hammer wil go right through parts of the frame.

 

[TJ2]

Under chassis rust is what I look at first. If they did not took care of the underbelly, chances are they did not took care of the jeep.

 

[BendLarry]

Chris and others have pretty well laid out the pro’s and con’s. If you want to do some serious rock crawling, go with the shorter wheel base TJ, unless you like the sound of rocks grinding on your undercarriage. For me the LJ and the JK unlimited look like a milk delivery truck [emoji6]not a serious off road Jeep


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[Dharmaroad]

This is a tough one... With all the money I have put into mine, it easily, easily is more than 15k worth of parts. So if I were to buy a new TJ / LJ to replace mine, I'd be thrilled if I found one with all the modifications I wanted. Hell, I'd be happy to pay more for it with mods too (within reason), as long as they were not cheap mods from manufacturers with poor reputations (i.e. Rough Country).

So it's ultimately up to you. You can very easily sink 8k into mods on these things, so a lot of the ones you find for 20k with the mods are worth it, depending on a variety of factors.

Don't pay a premium for vehicles with crap quality lifts such as Rough Country, Sky Jacker, Zone, etc. If you're going to buy one with a lift, make sure it's from a very reputable company like Currie, Savvy, Metalcloak, Clayton Off Road, etc. As for bumpers and other stuff, Smittybilt is the cheaper, Chinese made stuff. If it has bumpers from the likes of Savvy, ARB, Dirtworx, etc., those are all high quality, American made bumpers.

In other words, don't let some guy convince you he's put 10k into mods on an LJ he's selling if it's got a Rough Country lift, Smittybilt winch, and Smittybilt bumpers. Those are low end parts, and while they might look good, they aren't going to carry the same value as the really stellar brands like Currie, Savvy, and others.

In most cases, I'd want a low mileage, unmolested TJ. But yeah, if I found a used TJ and they wanted 8k more for it than other stock ones because it had a Currie lift, Savvy skid plates, a Warn winch, etc., then hell yes I would pay 10k more for it (assuming it was in great condition). The parts really add up fast! My Currie lift alone was roughly $2800 with shocks, plus the Currie steering was another $600, then the tires were $1100, winch is another $800, bumpers are another $600+ easily... So yeah, it adds up real fast!

In other words, I wouldn't pay more for the parts unless it was unmolested, well documented, and they were top quality parts.

Wow Chris thanks for the specifics of which are low-quality parts. Since I am new to Jeep I need to know the quality brands of aftermarket mods.

Are there any other companies to stay away from?

 

[Dharmaroad]

Chris and others have pretty well laid out the pro’s and con’s. If you want to do some serious rock crawling, go with the shorter wheel base TJ, unless you like the sound of rocks grinding on your undercarriage. For me the LJ and the JK unlimited look like a milk delivery truck [emoji6]not a serious off road Jeep


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Hey Thanks so much,
I appreciate your comment!
I hear that the TJ is a more serious 4x4. My thought is to have more room for wife and kid, this may be flawed thinking but I do like longer vehicles, more room for what I need for trips etc...

I don't mind the milk truck look, if it looks fairly aggressive, it balances our the milk truck look.

BUT with all that being said..

If I have 3 inch lift with bigger tires, is my rock crawling experience really going to be impaired?

Thanks again

 

[BendLarry]

Hey Thanks so much,
I appreciate your comment!
I hear that the TJ is a more serious 4x4. My thought is to have more room for wife and kid, this may be flawed thinking but I do like longer vehicles, more room for what I need for trips etc...

I don't mind the milk truck look, if it looks fairly aggressive, it balances our the milk truck look.

BUT with all that being said..

If I have 3 inch lift with bigger tires, is my rock crawling experience really going to be impaired?

Thanks again

No you will be just fine either way, and getting groceries will be easier [emoji4]


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[05 Blue Unlimited]

I'd be careful at that dealer...Just a gut feeling, I don't have ANY idea who they are, but they've put non-TJ wheels on it (you can tell the spare is different), and it looks like the frame has been painted in the one pic where you can see the frame above the rear tire. The factory e-coating doesn't have much, if any, gloss to it and that picture looks pretty shiny. They also shot a bunch of that dealer plastic dressing gook all over the engine bay.

None of these items are inherently bad, but sometimes they are used to cover up clues to a rough life or damage. Why did they change wheels, have to paint the frame, etc.

Personally I would pass on this one. The milage isn't all that bad but it has been wrecked twice, once in 06 and again in 09. This is not a deal killer if it was repaired properly but with the other little things noted it would give me pause.

 

[Chris]

Wow Chris thanks for the specifics of which are low-quality parts. Since I am new to Jeep I need to know the quality brands of aftermarket mods.

Are there any other companies to stay away from?

Stay away from Rough Country, Zone, Skyjacker, and maybe a few others I can't think of right at the moment.

Often times people will wonder why a Rough Country lift is literally half the cost of a high quality lift like Savvy, Currie, or similar. There's a reason for that, and it's called, "you get what you pay for". The reason a Rough Country lift (as an example) is so much cheaper is because they give you the worst possible quality shocks imaginable in their lifts, crappy, noise, and poor riding polyurethane bushings, etc. You end up getting what you pay for with that cheap quality kit. A lift that rides like crap compared to a more expensive lift, and will not last half as long (notably the shocks or bushings).

So keep that in mind. Brands like Currie and Savvy have a very high cost, but those lifts are very well thought out and designed lifts that incorporate nothing but the highest quality components and craftsmanship. I don't like to rag on people for running Rough Country or cheaper lifts, but I always like to surprise them by taking them for a ride in my Wrangler, which has a 4" Currie lift. They're always blown away by how well it rides and drives overall.

I guess the moral of the story is, if it sounds to good to be true (i.e. a very cheap lift), it's probably isn't.

Stick with lift brands like Currie, Savvy, Metalcloak, OME, Clayton, or piece together a quality kit yourself (i.e. H&R Springs, Rancho shocks, etc.).

Smittybilt components such as bumpers and armor in my opinion, don't add any value to a Jeep, as the metal they use is cheap, thin, Chinese crap.

 

[Dharmaroad]

Personally I would pass on this one. The milage isn't all that bad but it has been wrecked twice, once in 06 and again in 09. This is not a deal killer if it was repaired properly but with the other little things noted it would give me pause.

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear. What about this one? http://www.pacificmotorsla.com/pre-owned-cars/detail/2011-Jeep-Wrangler-Unlimited/153722

Way more than I wanted to spend.

 

[Chris]

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear. What about this one? http://www.pacificmotorsla.com/pre-owned-cars/detail/2011-Jeep-Wrangler-Unlimited/153722

Way more than I wanted to spend.

That’s a JK, totally different vehicle in all aspects, not even close to a TJ. If you get a JK Wrangler, stay away from anything under 2012. The earlier ones up until 2012 had the 3.8 minivan engine in it which was notorious for problems and very underpowered.