"E" Trail Rated!
Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
"E" Trail Rated!
For the last few months, the rig has been a bit, well...slow on the crank. So much so that the last few times I've wheeled I've been reluctant to shut the rig off on the trail. It has not left me stranded, but there have been a few times I thought it might not start. The charging system seems to be working fine.
I run an Odyssey Extreme, which has been great until now. I installed this one in March, 2000 - so it's only been in there a bit over 3 1/2 years. Since this thing is generally considered one of the best, I didn't know what else to do other than pick up a new one.
The rig is not a daily driver and does sometimes wind up sitting for long periods of time. I do usually drive it a couple of times a week, but always very short trips. Some of you know that I used to run Optima's, but along with everyone else after the Johnson Controls purchase I was only getting a year or two out of a battery - and the reason I switched to the Odyssey.
Perhaps my use pattern is causing the short battery life issue? Anyone have any insight?
Anyway, $400 clams later, it's on the bench:
View attachment 478952
My battery tray is designed for an Optima sized battery, and since the standard 34 is just a bit larger, it's not a direct drop in.
View attachment 478953
Easy to get it to fit, though. These ribs just need to be trimmed on both sides - as I did on the original:
View attachment 478954
So after just a few minutes with a chisel and mallet...
View attachment 478955
...it drops right in.
View attachment 478956
Except for the new product number, it looks exactly like the old one...
But the rig is now back to a very fast crank. Hopefully that remains the case and I can stop worrying about it for a while...
Just my measley .02...
Several years ago I replaced a 12 year old wet lead acid battery in my Cessna airplane with a AGM battery that was twice the price (as if aircraft parts aren't already astronomically overpriced). The new one was made by the same company as the "old timey" lead acid battery and was dimensionally the same and rated the same amp hours as required by the FAA. Obviously I don't fly very often and sometimes my plane would set a couple of weeks between flights, with the 12-year-old battery that really was not a problem in the warm months but toward the end in the cold season sometimes I would have to put a charger on it for a short time before it would start. Therefore because of that and the age is why I replaced it. What I was not expecting though is the new AGM battery ended up not liking intermittent usage whatsoever irregardless of the temperature outside. There were times when it was only five or six days between a flight and the battery would not have enough power to start the engine. So I bought a tender and kept on it and that seemed to help. But only after about 2 years even with the tender I started having battery issues and with talking to other aviators found out nobody likes the AGMs in the aircraft world with intermittent usage. They are almost a requirement in aerobatic aircraft though. So what I found was I ended up having to replace my extremely expensive AGM battery because after about 3 years it just wouldn't hold a charge at all. Yes I replaced it with a standard lead acid battery and when I sold the airplane it was still working fine at 7 years old at that point. Yeah this was just my lengthy two cents worth but I myself am not really sold on the AGM style batteries especially under intermittent use, I guess daily use in a lot of applications they would be fine, but I myself probably won't be buying another one unless it's for my daily driver truck.
Ive actually thought of something more like this for my hard-mounted battery maintainer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SLM8LT5/?tag=wranglerorg-20
It would fit perfectly on the removable poison spider panel I have.
It's the same type of setup as some block heaters have. I like the idea, even the one I posted would be pretty handy if implemented.
For the last few months, the rig has been a bit, well...slow on the crank. So much so that the last few times I've wheeled I've been reluctant to shut the rig off on the trail. It has not left me stranded, but there have been a few times I thought it might not start. The charging system seems to be working fine.
I run an Odyssey Extreme, which has been great until now. I installed this one in March, 2000 - so it's only been in there a bit over 3 1/2 years. Since this thing is generally considered one of the best, I didn't know what else to do other than pick up a new one.
The rig is not a daily driver and does sometimes wind up sitting for long periods of time. I do usually drive it a couple of times a week, but always very short trips. Some of you know that I used to run Optima's, but along with everyone else after the Johnson Controls purchase I was only getting a year or two out of a battery - and the reason I switched to the Odyssey.
Perhaps my use pattern is causing the short battery life issue? Anyone have any insight?
Anyway, $400 clams later, it's on the bench:
View attachment 478952
My battery tray is designed for an Optima sized battery, and since the standard 34 is just a bit larger, it's not a direct drop in.
View attachment 478953
Easy to get it to fit, though. These ribs just need to be trimmed on both sides - as I did on the original:
View attachment 478954
So after just a few minutes with a chisel and mallet...
View attachment 478955
...it drops right in.
View attachment 478956
Except for the new product number, it looks exactly like the old one...
But the rig is now back to a very fast crank. Hopefully that remains the case and I can stop worrying about it for a while...
What air filter housing is that? I need to do something to get my IAT down so I can run more timing. I want to do the cowl intake, or cut a hole in the hood?
I like the cowl intake solution.
Also, can someone remind me of the dangers of a lead acid battery in a rig that goes off-road? Is it something related to danger of starting a fire? I run AGM (SuperStarter), but the cost is getting so crazy that on both my sons rigs they went with a lead acid. Everyone in my family gets good life out of them (5'ish years).
Wouldn't you really need this one, the male ended one, and the cord then would plug into the onboard battery maintainor ..??
WELLUCK 15 Amp 125V AC Power Inlet Port Plug with Integrated 18" Extension Cord, NEMA 5-15 RV Flanged Inlet with Waterproof & Back Cover, 2 Pole 3-Wire Shore Power Plug for Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GLCXSBQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
If you guys really wanted to get fancy,these auto eject shore line connectors are good for forgetful jeepers. Or us sleepy firefighters at 3am.
the cord pops out when the ignition is turned to start
https://www.heimanfireequipment.com/products/shore-line-disconnect
the cord pops out when the ignition is turned to start
https://www.heimanfireequipment.com/products/shore-line-disconnect
Normally, I would make fun (good-natured, my best friend is a hose-dragger) of firefighters needing such a device, but I'm guilty of backing the LJ out of the shop without disconnecting my CTEK charger, first, so the joke's on me this time! I was able to revive the CTEK by replacing connectors and re-soldering the power leads at the circuit-board level, so it didn't cost me an expensive charger. Now I route the cord into the cabin and across the shift lever...
Spectre https://www.spectreperformance.com/accessories/9831-air-filter-housing
No fire dangers.
1) When winching and you draw the battery down to almost dead lead acid batteries will die sooner.
2) The bouncing and jarring while off-road can cause the lead plates to separate.
There isn't anything that says you can't run a regular lead acid battery and those of us who have been wheeling for more than 20 years can remember when there wasn't anything else available. The reason for AGM batteries was that they could handle the abuse better.
As Rick said, all of those intake parts are from Spectre. The only minor issue is that the filter that fits is an oiled version. It works well, but does require maintenance. I do carry an oiled spare in the trailer.
I’ve looked casually for a cotton element that would fit, but no luck.
Not really dangerous per se but wet batteries are more prone to vibration damage and acid spillage if something goes awry.
Mine had one of those on it when I got it and a janky redneck snorkel. It has sucked the filter flat. I just ran to Pick N Pull and grabbed a Windstar housing with the firewall grommet for $42. Just did a test in the garage and my IAT is +60 over ambient when the fan is running.
Have you checked AFE universal filters for one? Their
Pro Dry S Air Filter is what I put on my Cummins after I learned the oiled type isn't recommended for dry high dust environments.https://afepower.com/universal-air-filters
They also have "Build your own" custom filters.
https://afepower.com/build-your-own-filter
Edit: What can I say I must be getting old...
Last edited:
I'll have to go back and look in my thread but when I was first looking at using the Septre housing I looked at some possible replacement filters.
EDIT: Page #423 was where I talked about the filter. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wildmans-tj-is-getting-a-face-lift.19356/post-1377416
Last edited:
Rick got me again.. I guess the getting old and losing my mind/memory is catching up to me. The 7 layer is an oiled filter...
https://afepower.com/air-filter-media#filter-media
Similar threads
