Pics of sway bar is with tires strait. The sway bar hitting the frame is why I replaced the track bar and track bar bushings. Now the axle is centered but sway bar is still closer to the frame on the driver side.
How to rule out bent sway bar?
View attachment 550219View attachment 550220View attachment 550221Pic of the bracket is with tires turned to full right on flat ground.
Pics of sway bar is with tires strait. The sway bar hitting the frame is why I replaced the track bar and track bar bushings. Now the axle is centered but sway bar is still closer to the frame on the driver side.
How to rule out bent sway bar?
Looks like your using stock arms, so you're not going to be able to shorten/extend your front axle position, you're not going to be able to adjust your caster. You could add a slight bend in the drag link and re align. Its been done by several on the forum.
Looks like your using stock arms, so you're not going to be able to shorten/extend your front axle position, you're not going to be able to adjust your caster. You could add a slight bend in the drag link and re align. Its been done by several on the forum.
If you're sure the axle is centered and the sway bar isn't, then slide it over so it is.
If it doesn't stay there, replace bushings and/or add a collar to hold it there.
Where would you bend drag link? Is the goal to push where the tie rod connects further towards the front? Would one bend at the that point be better or multiple bends at different points be better?
Do a dry steering test, see if you can hear anything knock, and see/feel if anything is moving that isnt supposed to be.I just started to hear a slight knock when taking a sharp right turn maybe a month prior to changing the these components, it got worse after the track bar was installed. I assumed it was the driver side sway bar hitting the frame.
This just started to happen semi recently. Could something like worn front control arms cause this?
Will do but first, what do you consider a dry steering test?Do a dry steering test, see if you can hear anything knock, and see/feel if anything is moving that isnt supposed to be.
Will do but first, what do you consider a dry steering test?
Do I put the front axle on jack stands so tires are off the ground and have someone turn the wheel?
Since it contacts the most when turning right into an upward slope, is there a way to mimic this during the dry test?
Would it make sense to have the passenger side jack stand higher than the driver side? Use ratchet straps or a coil clamp to compress the coil further on the passenger side?
Since it contacts the most when turning right into an upward slope, is there a way to mimic this during the dry test?
Will do but first, what do you consider a dry steering test?
Do I put the front axle on jack stands so tires are off the ground and have someone turn the wheel?
Since it contacts the most when turning right into an upward slope, is there a way to mimic this during the dry test?
Would it make sense to have the passenger side jack stand higher than the driver side? Use ratchet straps or a coil clamp to compress the coil further on the passenger side?
The draglink has a bend, bend it some more and be done with this mess.
Engine running, wheels on ground, someone turning left/right while you look and feel for anything loose.
Think that’s enough extra depth? It was hitting without the grease fitting in the back.
There are threads in the forum for people having a "tail wag" in the rear when unloading/reloading from the rear axle shifting from failed bushings. I had something similar from a failed adjustable control arm recently. Let go of the throttle (unload) axle would shift, more throttle (load) axle would shift backAlmost all of the CA bushings are original and badly worn. Could this cause the axle to change position slightly?
Yeah, still hit once back together. I think it’s clearing the bracket now but hitting the sway bar link bracket that’s attached to the track bar bracket. Sway bar link bracket sticks out past the front of the track bar bracket an estimated 1/4”.Put it back together and turn the steering wheel. If its still hitting, put more bend in.
There are threads in the forum for people having a "tail wag" in the rear when unloading/reloading from the rear axle shifting from failed bushings. I had something similar from a failed adjustable control arm recently. Let go of the throttle (unload) axle would shift, more throttle (load) axle would shift back