New OME 2.0 lift questions

ac_ said:
I have understeer after my lift so I need to do it anyway. I will correct the alignment and the steering after I get mine to sit right. <= or the way I want it to sit. I am still waiting for my springs. Hopefully will be here by Friday so I can get them on this Saturday. By the way here is a picture of my stock rear spring in relation to the 2 inch rear heavy spring @bobthetj03.

View attachment 29084
Click to expand...

Even has the 942 sticker on it. Do a comparison of the 941's when you get them to the 942's. The 941's should be a tad taller unsprung than the 942's. With the lower spring rate of the 941's, it may or may not sit lower. Hopefully, for your sake, they sit lower.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Starrs
@bobthetj03 ok so 4x4 shop called me back and thinks I should remove rear spacers and front spacers, but add a 3/4" spacer up front. They think it won't make that much of a difference removing the rear. Now I'm more confused. I almost just ordered the JKS adjustable front coils but realized the minimum on those would be about 1.25". So do you think removing the rear and front and adding 3/4" spacer to the front is a good move?
 
Starrs said:
@bobthetj03 ok so 4x4 shop called me back and thinks I should remove rear spacers and front spacers, but add a 3/4" spacer up front. They think it won't make that much of a difference removing the rear. Now I'm more confused. I almost just ordered the JKS adjustable front coils but realized the minimum on those would be about 1.25". So do you think removing the rear and front and adding 3/4" spacer to the front is a good move?
Click to expand...

Hmm, tough call. You only have a 1" rake now, so it's a slippery slope. What if you kept the rear spacers in, remove the 10mm front spacers, and replace them with the 3/4" spacers. Different spin. What happens if you go too far? Also, you may want to factor in spring settling over time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and StG58
bobthetj03 said:
Hmm, tough call. You only have a 1" rake now, so it's a slippery slope. What if you kept the rear spacers in, remove the 10mm front spacers, and replace them with the 3/4" spacers. Different spin. What happens if you go too far? Also, you may want to factor in spring settling over time.
Click to expand...
Yea I def don't want the squatted dog look. I'll ponder this tonight.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobthetj03
Starrs said:
Yea I def don't want the squatted dog look. I'll ponder this tonight.
Click to expand...

I'm a cheap bastard, so my thought process is to do what costs the least in labor charge. If they replace both front and rear spacers, that's more labor charge, but if they just remove the rear spacers and you're not happy with the net change, then you'll pay for them to setup the jeep again to do the front. I say sleep on it and have a fresh perspective.

This may have no imperial evidence, but I see it like you would see a seesaw(teeder todder) whatever you want to call it. A long board pivoting on a center axis with someone on one end, and someone on the other end. As one end goes down, the other end goes up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Starrs
bobthetj03 said:
I'm a cheap bastard, so my thought process is to do what costs the least in labor charge. If they replace both front and rear spacers, that's more labor charge, but if they just remove the rear spacers and you're not happy with the net change, then you'll pay for them to setup the jeep again to do the front. I say sleep on it and have a fresh perspective.

This may have no imperial evidence, but I see it like you would see a seesaw(teeder todder) whatever you want to call it. A long board pivoting on a center axis with someone on one end, and someone on the other end. As one end goes down, the other end goes up.
Click to expand...
That's my thinking exactly. I could see this being an expensive trip and if removing the rear spacers which is only .38" (10mm converted to inches) doesn't really change much I might just need to add like a 1" spacer to the front. I'll see
 
JMT said:
I agree with post #107. Do fronts only, remove the 10mm and add a 3/4”
Click to expand...
I'm really debating the JKS adjustable coil spacers. Pricey, but would be able to adjust to the height without any worry. Either way I will be just adding spacers of some kind to the front. I'm thinking I'm going to need an inch tho to make it look level. From middle of the fender to the ground front and back there is a 2.5" difference. Measuring at the pinch welds on the frame there is only 1" difference. Lots of variation there.
 
Starrs said:
That's my thinking exactly. I could see this being an expensive trip and if removing the rear spacers which is only .38" (10mm converted to inches) doesn't really change much I might just need to add like a 1" spacer to the front. I'll see
Click to expand...

1. You need to start swinging a few spanners yourself if you're going to start this type of thing (it's the only reason why I do).

2. I'd be doing what you originally decided on and take out the rear spacer. Then you can make further decisions based on that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: StG58 and Starrs
Daz7 said:
1. You need to start swinging a few spanners yourself if you're going to start this type of thing (it's the only reason why I do).

2. I'd be doing what you originally decided on and take out the rear spacer. Then you can make further decisions based on that.
Click to expand...
I get what your saying but I know removing the 10mm pucks arnt going to do anything to the look of the rake. It's only .38" that will be removed. Twill top looks good btw
 
Starrs said:
I get what your saying but I know removing the 10mm pucks arnt going to do anything to the look of the rake. It's only .38" that will be removed. Twill top looks good btw
Click to expand...

Well, that’s nearly 1/2” by taking the rears out (2.5mm you’d never notice). So you’ve halved the rake. These things are pretty soft on the rear, you don’t want it setup so any load causes a reverse rake.
And all these spaces, are you better off just buying some Savvy 3” coils and be done with it?
 
Daz7 said:
Well, that’s nearly 1/2” by taking the rears out (2.5mm you’d never notice). So you’ve halved the rake. These things are pretty soft on the rear, you don’t want it setup so any load causes a reverse rake.
And all these spaces, are you better off just buying some Savvy 3” coils and be done with it?
Click to expand...
Excellent point. Now with 3" coils do I need to get new shocks then? I've thought about this too haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Daz7
Starrs said:
Excellent point. Now with 3" coils do I need to get new shocks then? I've thought about this too haha.
Click to expand...

I think you'd be ok with your current new shocks and 3" springs. You're only raising the lift height by .50" that way. And besides, if you put 1" spacers up front, that's literally what you're doing anyway. Which leads to yet another variable, why not keep your 2" springs in the rear, and buy 3" springs for up front? Get rid of the damn spacers all together.
 
bobthetj03 said:
I think you'd be ok with your current new shocks and 3" springs. You're only raising the lift height by .50" that way. And besides, if you put 1" spacers up front, that's literally what you're doing anyway. Which leads to yet another variable, why not keep your 2" springs in the rear, and buy 3" springs for up front? Get rid of the damn spacers all together.
Click to expand...
Talked to Dirk at DPG this morning. He said to add a 3/4" up front in conjunction with the 10mm spacer up front and more than likely remove the rear packer. I didn't think you could stack them, but he said it's perfectly fine to add a 3/4" spacer to the 10 mm puck
 
Starrs said:
Talked to Dirk at DPG this morning. He said to add a 3/4" up front in conjunction with the 10mm spacer up front and more than likely remove the rear packer. I didn't think you could stack them, but he said it's perfectly fine to add a 3/4" spacer to the 10 mm puck
Click to expand...

Yes, you could stack them. Do you think you need to?
 
Top Bottom
Back