No power to blower or fuses

Brian Ellis said:
That’s a big negative on the jumper wire.. when you start the Jeep it keeps the starter in gauged. Had to abort that idea... now I have absolutely no idea what to do next. I’ve had both fuse boxes unbolted and checked every wire and crimp. All that looks good, no dirt grime or discoloration. I guess I’ll just drive it with no heat or ac. I’ve checked fuses, changed fuses just in case some was bad that the naked eye couldn’t see. New relay, new resistor, new ignition switch. Cant find and burnt or discolored connectors... my only option I can think of would be by a new wiring harness, but that’s probably not going to happen... I do want to think everyone for the help and comments. It’s killing me I can’t this figured out. I’ve put a lot of time in this thing and I want it back to original working condition. View attachment 248927
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IF you lived closer I would offer to come over and assist you... to resolve the problem.
 
The ignition switch feeds the fuse block behind the glove compartment.
Take a look at the wiring and harness connector for ignition switch to see if there are signs of overheating.
IF there are no signs of overheating; then there is a good chance the secondary contacts inside the ignition switch have gone bad.
 
Ok update. I’ve traced the wires from the fuse box. No defects that I can tell. Everything that was attached to the blower motor and resistor or the relay is reading no volts on the multimeter. Volts are reading on fuse box #5, but still not to #8. Any other ideas on what to try next? I’ve replaced the resistor and blower motor.
 
FeltonsPieceOfJeep said:
The wires look ok. Nothing fried or cut. I think that whole block just doesn’t work. Every other block works just not 5-8. Is there a way to just replace that block?
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Check the ignition switch terminal #9 12 ga Pink/Black wire for incoming voltage and terminal #8 12 ga Black/Orange wire with ignition to ON for outgoing voltage. IF there is voltage on terminal #9, but not #8 then the secondary contacts of the ignition switch are bad.
Terminal #8 from the ignition switch feeds the Fuse Block fuses 5-8.
 
I would like to install an extra switch to turn the motor for the blower heater on and off. Which relay switches the blower? Can I install a switch on the relay and if so, which cable does it switch?
I have already done this with the relay for the fuel pump - this is a super immobilizer (a small switch under the seat....)
Best Greatings from Hungary
 
Edgar Marton said:
I would like to install an extra switch to turn the motor for the blower heater on and off. Which relay switches the blower? Can I install a switch on the relay and if so, which cable does it switch?
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Why would you want to install the extra switch ?
Is there a problem with the OEM speed switch or the speed resistor module ?
 
Edgar Marton said:
I would like to install an extra switch to turn the motor for the blower heater on and off. Which relay switches the blower? Can I install a switch on the relay and if so, which cable does it switch?
I have already done this with the relay for the fuel pump - this is a super immobilizer (a small switch under the seat....)
Best Greatings from Hungary
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I cut the lowest speed wire. I could never tell when it was on at thst speed anyways. I don't remember the color. (Then I put black marker over that speed marking on the dash)
 
CharlesHS said:
Why would you want to install the extra switch ?
Is there a problem with the OEM speed switch or the speed resistor module ?
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the rotary switch on the dashboard can no longer be switched off - (ventilation flaps are blocked ... conversion)
I just need a simple on and off switch - the speed is always set to slow
 
Easiest way would be to pull the control out and intercept the dark green wire that comes out of the mode selection switch (C3) and goes to the blower speed switch (C1). This is a ground/negative wire, all the blower and mode controls are in the negative side. You can splice a switch into the dark green wire before it gets to the blower speed switch. If you ever plan to use the higher speeds though you will need a heavy duty switch or a relay, this is a 40 amp circuit.

(note, the attached diagram is the heat only option for a 2000 but if you have AC it makes no difference, it will still work)

heater only.jpg
 
B1Toad said:
Easiest way would be to pull the control out and intercept the dark green wire that comes out of the mode selection switch (C3) and goes to the blower speed switch (C1). This is a ground/negative wire, all the blower and mode controls are in the negative side. You can splice a switch into the dark green wire before it gets to the blower speed switch. If you ever plan to use the higher speeds though you will need a heavy duty switch or a relay, this is a 40 amp circuit.

(note, the attached diagram is the heat only option for a 2000 but if you have AC it makes no difference, it will still work)

View attachment 545530
Click to expand...

hello thanks for the quick help that was great ! i can make good use of the diagram. I will take an 40 ampere switch... best regards frok hungary
 
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