Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Nothing I need, everything I want (2005 TJR, impact orange)

Another write-up coming later tonight .. but a couple teaser pics first to whet the appetite.

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I posted these two photos earlier ... but I don't think folks really understood the level of work that was needed to get the skid plate profile match THAT perfectly with the crossmember.

Just for story telling, I am repeating the 1st pic to show what Blaine made happen on the orange jeep. Notice now the shape of the crossmember and the skid plate are sooooooo nicely matched. It did not come that way from the shop that makes these items!

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From the shop, the bends on these different pieces are never exactly the same. They are close, but not perfectly matched due to the nature of how they are made. In addition, when they are bolted together, the frame side fasteners suck the end flanges in the crossmember flat and that changes the shape of the bends and therefore you see gaps. The only way to make them fit without gaps is to mark the shape of the skid (when it is in place) onto the crossmember, then carefully cut that line in the bottom of the crossmember .. and while that is easy to visualize, it is very hard to do get it super perfect that it leaves no gaps whatsoever.

I am going to quote Blaine here on how he accomplished what you see in the pic above - so as to not butcher the technical details.

I pondered it overnight and came up with a great solution. I cut a piece of ¾” birch hardwood to length, and then using our poorly cut stiffener, traced that onto it. Routed that off to a perfect profile of the stiffener after some jigsaw work and then I set it in place, marked the fore and aft location, removed it, and then waxed the skid in that area as a release agent. Once the wax was dry, I squirted autobody 2-part urethane structural adhesive onto the lower edge of my template and plopped it in place taking pains to locate it, smoosh it down until I could see the adhesive ooze out, and then squared it up. 2 hours later after it cured out, we flexed up the middle of the skid with the floor jack to pop it loose with the now exact shape of the skid on it. Trimmed the flash off of one side and it is a perfect template for a flush trim router bit.

What it looked like after we popped it loose with the flash trimmed on one side.

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In place with the stiffener and my crappy cut.


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After routing.

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Final fitment.

No gaps between bottom of crossmember and skid plate!!


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Essentially what you are seeing is Blaine demonstrating very skilled and clever mold making and casting to get to the level of perfection he desired for the fitment. The crazy part? This mold will only work for this jeep. If one were to do it again, another mold is needed since a different skid and crossmember will fit differently slightly differently to each other since the bends are going to be just that slightly different.🤯

Was any of this needed or does this add anything for performance? No and No. Then why spend time doing all this extra work? Because he wanted to and because he could solve that specific conundrum. And in the pursuit he (and all of us) learned something that can be reused in a different context at a later time if the need arises. For me, watching stuff like this happen in this build is just absolutely joyful and being able to write about this here and document it brings another whole layer of enjoyment.

Not a direct analogy, but in my world it's akin to a physicist doing some exploratory math for a problem and discovering a beautiful symmetry in the equations and taking a moment to pause and appreciate that symmetry just for the pure joy of it. That puts a smile on my face thinking about it and I hope this post gives folks reading all this something to think about in their own pursuits.
 
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This is the custom compartment that Blaine built to house the amp and the power supplies. Once inside the Jeep, it looks like it always was there .. the fitment is super clean Blaine style. I really love how this center control area has come around in this build both functionally and visually.

I am sorting out the speaker situation next. Blaine is working on the rear electrical panel and a way to organize/carry some of the stuff that will permanently live in the Jeep. That will be a future update down the line in a few weeks!


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I posted these two photos earlier ... but I don't think folks really understood the level of work that was needed to get the skid plate profile match THAT perfectly with the crossmember.

Just for story telling, I am repeating the 1st pic to show what Blaine made happen on the orange jeep. Notice now the shape of the crossmember and the skid plate are sooooooo nicely matched. It did not come that way from the shop that makes these items!

View attachment 583383

From the shop, the bends on these different pieces are never exactly the same. They are close, but not perfectly matched due to the nature of how they are made. In addition, when they are bolted together, the frame side fasteners suck the end flanges in the crossmember flat and that changes the shape of the bends and therefore you see gaps. The only way to make them fit without gaps is to mark the shape of the skid (when it is in place) onto the crossmember, then carefully cut that line in the bottom of the crossmember .. and while that is easy to visualize, it is very hard to do get it super perfect that it leaves no gaps whatsoever.

I am going to quote Blaine here on how he accomplished what you see in the pic above - so as to not butcher the technical details.





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No gaps between bottom of crossmember and skid plate!!


View attachment 583387

Essentially what you are seeing is Blaine demonstrating very skilled and clever mold making and casting to get to the level of perfection he desired for the fitment. The crazy part? This mold will only work for this jeep. If one were to do it again, another mold is needed since a different skid and crossmember will fit differently slightly differently to each other since the bends are going to be just that slightly different.🤯

Was any of this needed or does this add anything for performance? No and No. Then why spend time doing all this extra work? Because he wanted to and because he could solve that specific conundrum. And in the pursuit he (and all of us) learned something that can be reused in a different context at a later time if the need arises. For me, watching stuff like this happen in this build is just absolutely joyful and being able to write about this here and document it brings another whole layer of enjoyment.

Not a direct analogy, but in my world it's akin to a physicist doing some exploratory math for a problem and discovering a beautiful symmetry in the equations and taking a moment to pause and appreciate that symmetry just for the pure joy of it. That puts a smile on my face thinking about it and I hope this post gives folks reading all this something to think about in their own pursuits.

Even with the explanation and photos, I'm amazed that Blaine was able to dial in the wood template so close to the actual dimensions that he only needed about 1/16" thick of adhesive goo to fill in the gap.

Details provided on the skid stiffener, center dash tray, and other items are what make this such a special thread. This isn't a train wreck thread for those who are entertained by watching someone struggle. This is mastery and a glimpse into the "how" and "why" for those who are interested.
 
Even with the explanation and photos, I'm amazed that Blaine was able to dial in the wood template so close to the actual dimensions that he only needed about 1/16" thick of adhesive goo to fill in the gap.
Not as hard as you're making it out to be. I'll get a couple of pics later to show how easy it really is.
 
Even with the explanation and photos, I'm amazed that Blaine was able to dial in the wood template so close to the actual dimensions that he only needed about 1/16" thick of adhesive goo to fill in the gap.

...

Templates and patterning bits allow you to do some very precise things.
 
Random piece of baltic birch ply, cut off piece of a belly skid.
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Push it over tight to the aluminum and mark along the top.

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Cut it off on the line with a jigsaw.

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I wasn't trying for a precise cut, just something close that I know the autobody structural adhesive will fill the gap on.

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Start to finish including taking pictures is maybe 15 minutes.
 
I've been using quite a few of the Diablo bits. Never go wrong with Amana.

Thanks, I must’ve been doing something wrong, I was using a 1/2inx1/2in mortising bit, I’ll look into Amana aswell.

How about RPMs? Is there a specific speed that works better than others?
 
This is what you see from the driver's seat. Careful eyes will notice how Blaine angled the trans temp gauge a little bit towards the driver's seat.

I really like the angled approach and would like to replicate. Any further info on how this is mounted at an angle?
 
I really like the angled approach and would like to replicate. Any further info on how this is mounted at an angle?

I cut an angle on the end of a piece of 2" black ABS drain pipe. I'd like to have more angle but the mount legs get into the side of the panel. I bent pieces of aluminum flat bar, drilled holes for the gauge studs, and cut them to the right length to work.
 
Perhaps a drop down shelf/storage basket? Is that what I see?

Trying to figure your wizardry out is harder than a NYT crossword puzzle, and I can never get those!

A few small details are left to do, some of which are already done like finishing the corner welds. The small pulleys for the cable supports are on the way. They will stop the drop level about where I have it propped in place. The actual amount will be about 1" more than the overall depth of the basket.

The straight-edge shows how far it sits above the side roll bars so as to not intrude on the visual space when looking out the rear view mirror or across from the sides.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts