OMG Another Super 35 Question

MikeO

TJ Enthusiast
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Jul 22, 2017
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Hallsville, Texas
I hate to even bring this up again, but I have researched until my eyes hurt.
I’m pulling the trigger on both the chromoly axle kit in front, staying with 27 spline. Yukon has this kit (YA W24110) .
In back, I’ll put the infamous super 35 kit, and I want a selective locker as I may be moving to an icier climate.

Problem:
I can’t find superior kits at all.
I can find Revolution kit with ARB locker. Is this kit as good as any?
I can find Yukon with a “Zip” locker. How does Zip compare with ARB?
Any kits I should look at, and…
Should I look for a C-Clip eliminator kit? Can I get a super 35 that includes that since (I think) it requires a different kind of axle.
This will be the end of my build, (except for the solar cup holder) and just want to get it right.

Thanks
 
The RG&A owner operated superior back in the day. Superior has had its doors shut the last 7 or 8 years now. You will have no problem at all running the RG&A super 35. I'd go thru 4lowparts to get my items.

No need for a c-clip eliminator. Whats weak on the dana 35 are the 27 spline shafts that are prone to snapping. You will be removing those for a 30 spline set and the carrier (locker), which eliminates that weak point.
 
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X2, Superior Axle went out of business years ago so you want to go with Revolution Gear's Super 35. Mac McMillan (together with forum member mrblaine) developed the Super 35 at Superior Axle. After Superior went out of business, Mac brought it and the axle shaft designs over to Revolution Gear who now manufactures them.

No need for a c-clip eliminator kit. As said above, the c-clips themselves don't break, it's the stock Dana 35 axle shafts that do. Once they are replaced with the stronger 30 spline 1541H axleshafts you won't have breakages or c-clip issues. That's why the c-clip eliminators stopped being available with Superior Axle's SUper 35 kits, they weren't having any problems with the c-clips with the stronger shafts.

A good source for the Revolution Gear Super 35 kit is Ricky at https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/dana-35-us-made-rear-axle-kit-91-06-super35-warb-air-locker/. They're a long-term dealer for Revolution Gear and Ricky is very knowledgeable and helpful.
 
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X2, Superior Axle went out of business years ago so you want to go with Revolution Gear's Super 35. Mac McMillan (together with forum member mrblaine) developed the Super 35 at Superior Axle. After Superior went out of business, Mac brought it and the axle shaft designs over to Revolution Gear who now manufactures them.

No need for a c-clip eliminator kit. As said above, the c-clips themselves don't break, it's the stock Dana 35 axle shafts that do. Once they are replaced with the stronger 30 spline 1541H axleshafts you won't have breakages or c-clip issues. That's why the c-clip eliminators stopped being available with Superior Axle's SUper 35 kits, they weren't having any problems with the c-clips with the stronger shafts.

A good source for the Revolution Gear Super 35 kit is Ricky at https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/dana-35-us-made-rear-axle-kit-91-06-super35-warb-air-locker/. They're a long-term dealer for Revolution Gear and Ricky is very knowledgeable and helpful.

Thanks Jerry,
I found what I needed, front and back at 4lowparts, talked to Crista.
The Dana 30 kit specifies 4340 chromoly, but the super 35 for the back doesn't. Can I assume it also had chromoly shafts?
 
Thanks Jerry,
I found what I needed, front and back at 4lowparts, talked to Crista.
The Dana 30 kit specifies 4340 chromoly, but the super 35 for the back doesn't. Can I assume it also had chromoly shafts?
4340 is appropriate for the front shafts but not for the rear due to how the Dana 35's bearings ride on the surface of the shaft. The Super 35 shafts are 1541H which is a different hardening process for the surface so the bearings won't wear down through the surface like would happen with 4340. Rear Dana 44 axle shafts can be 4340 because its axle shaft bearings don't ride on the surface of the shaft.
 
@westtown-willy ran a super 35 kit and he said he had no issues, although I don’t recall the tire he was running.
He even stated that he didn’t run a truss and the ~2.6” tubes held up after 20 or so wheeling trips.
A lot of articles I read suggested run a truss to help eliminate axle house flex, but no bent housings to show off.

From the little research I’ve done, I haven’t found a 4140 or 4340 Dana 35 shaft. But it could be out there.

G2 also sells a shaft kit in 27 or 30 spline p/n 96-2049-2-30

Stock 27spline 1.18” axle compared to a 30 spline 1.31”.

F2D6BD24-358D-4EFB-8884-D7DB863AA4FF.jpeg
 
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4340 is appropriate for the front shafts but not for the rear due to how the Dana 35's bearings ride on the surface of the shaft. The Super 35 shafts are 1541H which is a different hardening process for the surface so the bearings won't wear down through the surface like would happen with 4340. Rear Dana 44 axle shafts can be 4340 because its axle shaft bearings don't ride on the surface of the shaft.
Wow, an education, to be sure. Thanks
 
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@westtown-willy ran a super 35 kit and he said he had no issues, although I don’t recall the tire he was running.
He even stated that he didn’t run a truss and the ~2.6” tubes held up after 20 or so wheeling trips.
A lot of articles I read suggested run a truss to help eliminate axle house flex, but no bent housings to show off.

From the little research I’ve done, I haven’t found a 4140 or 4340 Dana 35 shaft. But it could be out there.
There's a reason Super 35 axle shafts aren't 4140 or 4340, read my post above.

And trusses aren't really needed or a benefit, Dana 35 axles don't have a reputation for bending in typical offroad situations. Not to mention the TJ Dana 35 and TJ Dana 44 axle tubes are exactly the same... they are cut from the same exact stock.
 
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There's a reason Super 35 axle shafts aren't 4140 or 4340, read my post above.

And trusses aren't really needed or a benefit, Dana 35 axles don't have a reputation for bending in typical offroad situations. Not to mention the TJ Dana 35 and TJ Dana 44 axle tubes are exactly the same... they are cut from the same exact stock.


I haven’t found the exact dimensions for the rear Tj 44 yet. Do you happen to know for sure and can you take a pic for me? Looking for actual tech that people can’t argue. The xj and mj 44 rear tube appear to be 2.75” although not relavent to this thread and still awaiting a pic for the proof.

You did mention In another thread all front tj front housing tubes are 2.5” .250” wall.
 
There's a reason Super 35 axle shafts aren't 4140 or 4340, read my post above.

And trusses aren't really needed or a benefit, Dana 35 axles don't have a reputation for bending in typical offroad situations. Not to mention the TJ Dana 35 and TJ Dana 44 axle tubes are exactly the same... they are cut from the same exact stock.


*Edit- I was mentioned that the housings could flex*

And thanks for your input on the housing strength. I was just reading from some old magazine articles and they mention running one in some different articles.
And I mentioned a member here didn’t run one and he was fine.
 
I’m pulling the trigger on both the chromoly axle kit in front, staying with 27 spline. Yukon has this kit (YA W24110) .

you might want to consider the 30 spline up front as well, rather than explaining why I'll defer to the expert here - see Post #212 in this link:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/should-i-buy-this-ford-8-8-axle.14982/page-11#post-267605

What I can add to that is that it's the difference of around $300 for the RGA 30 spline vs. 27.

And, congratulations on the build plan, I hope you get as much enjoyment out of it as I have.
 
I'll be the contrarian here. There's nothing wrong with a Super 30 kit up front but it's my opinion that 30 spline shafts are not really needed up front with 35's, especially since you need new 30 spline hubs, bearings, and a 30 spline carrier or locker. That's a very expensive set of upgrades when there's a far less costly yet perfectly viable alternative available.

Instead, which is what I did to my previous TJ after breaking a factory front axle shaft on the trail, was to simply upgrade the shafts from the factory carbon steel 27 spline shafts to 4340 alloy 27 spline inner and outer shafts. That 4340 upgrade gives more strength than a stock Dana 44 axle shaft and it will hold up fine.

After upgrading the front shafts to 4340, my front axle had no more problems after that. Even doing the same trail again that broke the axle the first time, plus continuing to wheel other trails in Johnson Valley and other trails most would consider extreme level. 30 spline 4340 alloy shafts in the rear, 27 spline 4340 alloy shafts in the front. The front seldom sees more than about 50% of the stress the rear does so it doesn't need to have the same strength.
 
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Thanks for this post, man. Good info in here. Now that I've started saving for the TJ again, I've started reading in earnest to figure out what to do. I've gone back and forth since I bought this Jeep on the rear axle, and now that I'm pretty certain I'd never go above 33's, it's becoming somewhat apparent the more cost effective way of doing this is the Super35 kit that Jerry B. pointed out. Though I will admit that it's weird to contemplate it after years of programmed disdain.

I've still not completely figured out what locker is best for my use, though I "think" the ARB might be due to the selectivity, and I live in a somewhat snowy area. I guess at that point I'd need to go ahead and look at a compressor too... Oh, and that disc brake conversion I've been thinking about. Just empty every pocket, indeed.
 
There's a reason Super 35 axle shafts aren't 4140 or 4340, read my post above.

And trusses aren't really needed or a benefit, Dana 35 axles don't have a reputation for bending in typical offroad situations. Not to mention the TJ Dana 35 and TJ Dana 44 axle tubes are exactly the same... they are cut from the same exact stock.
Keep this one in your pocket so you don't have to explain it so much.
1545191683658.png
 
"...Oh, and that disc brake conversion I've been thinking about."

Thanks, I've been researching for awhile. I'm promoting my self from Jeep Newb to Rookie. BTW, everything I've read about the disc brake conversion (mostly from Jerry) says it's a waste of money since the front brakes provide 70% of the stopping force. I read that the only benefit to disc brakes is the easier maintenance.
 
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"...Oh, and that disc brake conversion I've been thinking about."

Thanks, I've been researching for awhile. I'm promoting my self from Jeep Newb to Rookie. BTW, everything I've read about the disc brake conversion (mostly from Jerry) says it's a waste of money since the front brakes provide 70% of the stopping force. I read that the only benefit to disc brakes is the easier maintenance.
The conversion is a waste if you are trying to improve stopping ability. If you are after self adjusting brakes that are much easier to work on with a parking brake that works pretty good, they are money well spent.
 
The conversion is a waste if you are trying to improve stopping ability. If you are after self adjusting brakes that are much easier to work on with a parking brake that works pretty good, they are money well spent.
That's the only reason I'm concerned with a conversion. I changed out the shoes on my drums a few months ago, and while it isn't too hard, it still induced some cursing on my part, and I swore whatever my axle choice was going to be, it was going to include disc brakes. It won't be anything too fancy, I think I've seen some kits on-line running around 500, and that's not really shopping it yet.
 
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That's the only reason I'm concerned with a conversion. I changed out the shoes on my drums a few months ago, and while it isn't too hard, it still induced some cursing on my part, and I swore whatever my axle choice was going to be, it was going to include disc brakes.

I think the last time I changed drum brakes was over 10 years ago. I can tell you this for sure though: I don't miss doing it.
 
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