Overheating when using air conditioning
- Thread starter Santiago Camacho
- Start date
jblues1969
Member
It is the USMW one. I don't actually know if they are permanently attached or not.
jblues1969
Member
they can't be or else there'd be no way to install the pulley for the belt. Pretty sure it must just be a water pump and a fan clutch that came shipped in one box.
jblues1969
Member
Getting ready to replace the fan clutch this weekend.
Just for sanity, here are my final observations:
1. The fan is rotating clockwise (driver seat perspective) and is pulling air through the radiator from outside.
1a. The new part's description says it is a counter-rotation fan clutch. The current part's description says nothing about the rotation.
2. I watched it warm up and idle all the way to overheat, and the fan never increased speed.
3. My dash gauge for temp dallies just north of 210 for awhile, while the ODB2 shows it creeping up to 255 before the needle moves up near the red mark.
Unless that all adds up to something else, I'm replacing that sucker on Saturday.
Just for sanity, here are my final observations:
1. The fan is rotating clockwise (driver seat perspective) and is pulling air through the radiator from outside.
1a. The new part's description says it is a counter-rotation fan clutch. The current part's description says nothing about the rotation.
2. I watched it warm up and idle all the way to overheat, and the fan never increased speed.
3. My dash gauge for temp dallies just north of 210 for awhile, while the ODB2 shows it creeping up to 255 before the needle moves up near the red mark.
Unless that all adds up to something else, I'm replacing that sucker on Saturday.
Sounds like it's bad.
Serpentine belt water pumps/fan clutches are reverse rotation of the old V belt systems.
Serpentine belt water pumps/fan clutches are reverse rotation of the old V belt systems.
Also worth checking to make sure there's not a buildup of debris on the AC condenser or between that and the radiator. I've had the fins clog up enough to noticeably impact engine cooling. Compressed air usually is able to clear it out, but it can be difficult to get between the condenser and the radiator.
KennethS
TJ Expert
Good call. A coworker had a field mouse build a nest between the condenser and the radiator one day while he was fishing. The vehicle ran hot on his way back home.
jblues1969
Member
Fan clutch replaced. Whew. I COULD NOT break the bolts no matter what I did so I took it to my local shop and they did it for me in 10 minutes.
(I bought the pulley immobilizer tool and couldn't break the nuts on the damn pulley to mount it, and at that point, I gave up)
Good news - it no longer is overheating at idle
Bad news - unless I turn on the AC.
What's next?
I think I'm going to flush and fill to make sure I have proper coolant since I don't know what's in there (only that it's new and looks clear).
(I bought the pulley immobilizer tool and couldn't break the nuts on the damn pulley to mount it, and at that point, I gave up)
Good news - it no longer is overheating at idle
Bad news - unless I turn on the AC.
What's next?
I think I'm going to flush and fill to make sure I have proper coolant since I don't know what's in there (only that it's new and looks clear).
The elephant still remaining in the room is your radiator came from Autozone. It's clear that it's marginal and the only fix is to replace it with something that has the required cooling capacity and an adequate cooling reserve for tougher conditions. If you can't find a Mopar, and there are still some out there, I'd at least replace it with something like a Denso... and no more store brands.
jblues1969
Member
I was hoping you'd chime in on that. I was betting since I wasn't off-roading and grinding in low gear that wouldn't be the case, but here we are. 
to be perfectly accurate, it's not the load of the compressor placed on the engine creating a bunch of additional heat. It's the heat from your interior, moved to your condenser, and then blown onto your radiator at ~30 degrees above ambient, so when it's 80 outside your radiator thinks it's 110. (I kinda pulled 30 out of my butt, but it's very likely in the ballpark)
jblues1969
Member
Any concerns with the Denso as opposed to Mopar? I can't find any reliable specs to look at.
It's not as good of a choice as the Mopar where reserve cooling capacity and efficiency is concerned but if you can't find a Mopar Denso's certainly a better choice than store brands, cheap all-aluminum types, and most other aftermarket radiators.
I did a photo comparison using rock autos stock photos and CSF was one of, if not the only, one that appeared comparable to Mopar in number of tubes. Tube count isn't the whole story but it's a big piece of it. I don't know much about CSF or their likely longevity.
jblues1969
Member
The only Mopar I seem to be able to find in stock anywhere is 55037653AC which is for automatic transmission. I've heard that is fine for a manual since the transmission lines are plugged. Can anyone confirm?
jblues1969
Member
@Jerry Bransford
Haven't yet replaced the radiator but I have a Denso ready to go waiting for a free weekend. Still not overheating unless I turn on the AC.
Today, the CEL came on and I got codes P00032, P00038, P00052, P00058
Is this somehow related?
Haven't yet replaced the radiator but I have a Denso ready to go waiting for a free weekend. Still not overheating unless I turn on the AC.
Today, the CEL came on and I got codes P00032, P00038, P00052, P00058
Is this somehow related?
Replace your O2 sensors. If nothing changes, then you're probably going to need a new PCM.
Yes that works just as well for one with a manual transmission. The transmission cooler is completely separate from the radiator so it doesn't matter if the transmission cooler ports are capped off or not.
jblues1969
Member
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