P0340 / P0344 and limp mode
- Thread starter emedlin
- Start date
Found a thread where this one was mentioned, https://www.amazon.com/Thinkdiag2-B...-Intelligent/dp/B09YRDGY3Z?tag=wranglerorg-20. Seems you have to buy a subscription after awhile though or you loose some functionality. Also ran across this one, https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Diag...ce-Functions/dp/B07XK1P8ZT?tag=wranglerorg-20. I will see what the local shop will charge me.
I ordered the Thinkdiag2, as the shop isn't open today. And, it was only $120. It will be here tomorrow. I did find out it you can access the special functions after the subscription runs out by going to the history to get to the functions.
Go to the history section at 4:14 and he shows how to access it.
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Got my Thinkdiag2 today. I adjusted the OPDA to 0.5 after tightening it it down. The strange think is it will not do a relearn. I tell it do a Relearn Cam Crank. It says to switch the ignition off and back on. But, when I look at the learned value it hasn't changed. It says 6552.10. Seems it can't handle negative values. I think that would be equal to 6552.1- 6553.5 = -1.4 degrees. While the learned state is not far off from the current state. I would like to store the new value.
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Nevermind. It just took awhile. While typing the above post, I left it idling. When I went back the learned had changed to 0.5. Guess I just didn't wait long enough.
Edit:
Nevermind. It just took awhile. While typing the above post, I left it idling. When I went back the learned had changed to 0.5. Guess I just didn't wait long enough.
JKP
TJ Addict
Well, there's only 360 deg in a circle, so the scanner is puking on the neg number.
Disconnect the battery for awhile, or to do it more quickly, disconnect the pos and touch it to the neg cable to drain the caps and the PCM will relearn.
See what the scanner reports after that.
Disconnect the battery for awhile, or to do it more quickly, disconnect the pos and touch it to the neg cable to drain the caps and the PCM will relearn.
See what the scanner reports after that.
It runs fine now and no codes, currently. We will see how it does after a few weeks.
Interesting thing I found out. So, when I took the old OPDA out with the holes aligned I noticed that crank pully was not lined up at TDC. It was assumed it had just slipped in the past given its age. I noticed my new OPDA was turned noticeable more after aligning to 0 degrees than the old one. So, I removed the black cap off the new OPDA and turned the engine until the holes lined up. Then when I checked the crank pully it was almost perfectly lined up at TDC. So, it hadn't slipped. The old OPDA just wasn't installed completely at TDC. So, always check and don't assume the old OPDA was installed correctly.
Currently running the Crown sensor. Still not sure if I should try and return the NAPA one or not.
Interesting thing I found out. So, when I took the old OPDA out with the holes aligned I noticed that crank pully was not lined up at TDC. It was assumed it had just slipped in the past given its age. I noticed my new OPDA was turned noticeable more after aligning to 0 degrees than the old one. So, I removed the black cap off the new OPDA and turned the engine until the holes lined up. Then when I checked the crank pully it was almost perfectly lined up at TDC. So, it hadn't slipped. The old OPDA just wasn't installed completely at TDC. So, always check and don't assume the old OPDA was installed correctly.
Currently running the Crown sensor. Still not sure if I should try and return the NAPA one or not.
It threw a P0344 again this afternoon and went into limp mode. Looking for something else to try now? Should I try the NAPA sensor instead of the new Crown one? Anything I can look at with my new ThinkDiag?
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JKP
TJ Addict
Seems to be doing it pretty regularly right now. I used the ThinkDiag to record it when it happend. I had all the cam and crank data along with the rpms. Here is a screenshot right before I ended the recording and a graph stopped at a point where it threw the code. It stayed at a cam crank difference of 1 deg after it threw the code until I switched it off. I also had it go out of sync in park just rev'ing the engine in the driveway. So, how big of a cam crank difference does it allow before it goes out of sync? Or, is the 1 deg just some kind of default that is getting recorded when it is not getting a signal?
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JKP
TJ Addict
I thought it was around that. It must just show one when it loses the signal. So, I put the NAPA sensor back in and drove it around for about 20 minutes. It stayed in sync the entire time, and I watched the difference move up and down with the rpms. It never just hit one and stay there. Maybe the Crown sensor is bad, or the plug wasn't making a good connection. Fingers crossed this fixed it. Wife and Kid ( his Jeep ) are ready for me to take it to a shop as he drives it back and forth to school each day. And pulling out into traffic and it deciding to go to limb mode isn't real safe.
I did notice the Crown OPDA has a much tighter fit for the sensors than the old Dorman one. I could remove and install the sensors easily on the Droman. They would just slide right out or in. I had to really twist and pull / push to swap in the NAPA sensor.
P0344 came back today and put it in limp mode again. Wish I knew how it was losing the signal. Any chance it could be the crank position sensor? Getting tired of just replacing parts, but I don't really no what else to do or what a shop would do.
JKP
TJ Addict
Yes, it can be the crank sensor.
Pull up the FSM under Resources and look the code up under the Powertrain section for troubleshooting.
Pull up the FSM under Resources and look the code up under the Powertrain section for troubleshooting.
I don't think it is the crank sensor. I am pretty sure it is the actual connector for the cam sensor. It did it again about an hour ago. So, I decided to connect the scan tool up and watch it. As soon as I touched the connector I saw it hit 17 degrees and go out of sync. I tested it several times and if I grap the connector even without moving it much it goes out of sync. I never saw the degree change like that again, but it goes out of sync. I figure it just jumps to something to quick to show up. Moving other wires like the ones that go down the toward the dip stick don't cause that. I also noticed once it goes out of sync the degree is stuck. It always shows the last reading like 0.6 or whatever. Maybe once it goes out of sync the PCM doesn't care what it is anymore and stops reporting it. I also unplugged and replugged the sensor with no change.
So, I think it must be the female connector on the harness as I have tried three sensors now, and I wouldn't think all three are bad. I am just not sure if it is the connector itself or the wires where they go into the back of it. When I tested the wires earlier with my volt meter I didn't find anything when moving wires around. So, I am thinking the female plug is not making a good connection with the male plug. I plan to work on it more this weekend when I have more time and daylight to determine exactly where the problem is. At least I have something to trouble shoot now.
Assuming I need to buy the female connector, is their recommended brand? I found this one at Amazon.
So, I think it must be the female connector on the harness as I have tried three sensors now, and I wouldn't think all three are bad. I am just not sure if it is the connector itself or the wires where they go into the back of it. When I tested the wires earlier with my volt meter I didn't find anything when moving wires around. So, I am thinking the female plug is not making a good connection with the male plug. I plan to work on it more this weekend when I have more time and daylight to determine exactly where the problem is. At least I have something to trouble shoot now.
Assuming I need to buy the female connector, is their recommended brand? I found this one at Amazon.
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I've got the same thing going on with my oil pressure sensor on my 97.
I have some large 4-1 heat shrink...I've "fixed" wonky connectors tempermeantly.
-Mac
I have some large 4-1 heat shrink...I've "fixed" wonky connectors tempermeantly.
-Mac
I installed the new connector. My wire connection is in the thick part down near the 'T' intersection. I zipped tied the connector to the AC line due to having a lot of extra wire now and deciding to keep it away from the heat from the engine. Drove it around the block and it was fine. Maybe that finally fixed it.
If anyone ever needs it, here is the wire colors going into the old connector.
If anyone ever needs it, here is the wire colors going into the old connector.
Was going so good, then it through the code again today. Got home and watched my Thinkdiag as I moved wires around. Specifically where I joined the wires. It stayed in sync the entire times I was moving wires around. So, I think the bad plug is fixed and where I joined it is good. Going to tell my son to keep an eye on it and see if it does it again this week driving back and forth to school.
I did notice a sound coming from the new Crown OPDA. It goes away when I put a little pressure on the top of it. It is fully seated and not leaking any oil around the base and the bolt holding it in is tight. I put maybe another 1/4 round on it, but it didn't change anything. I removed the top and there is no up and down movement like the Dorman had. Maybe it is normal or just breaking in to match the cam wear.
I did notice a sound coming from the new Crown OPDA. It goes away when I put a little pressure on the top of it. It is fully seated and not leaking any oil around the base and the bolt holding it in is tight. I put maybe another 1/4 round on it, but it didn't change anything. I removed the top and there is no up and down movement like the Dorman had. Maybe it is normal or just breaking in to match the cam wear.
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