P0340 / P0344 and limp mode

[emedlin]

I think if I was in your shoes I'd be finding a scan tool that can look at the sync. DRBIII or something like that.

For all we know you're just off enough to trigger the code.

Barring that... it's wiring and grounds. Continuity and ohm checks back to the PCM connectors, possibly delooming and visually inspecting the harness and cleaning every ground.

-Mac

I will have to see if a local shop has a DRBIII. What would I ask them to check exactly? I am not sure what sync. means. I also ran across this post, https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...cam-sensor-in-the-4-0-engine-2000-2006.69520/, and it says "This function should be performed when you replace the cam sensor" under the Cam Sensor Calibartion section. So, I guess the shop could/should do a relearn also. Any estimates on cost?

Do you happen to know what pins on the PCM go back to the sensor on an 06? I have a volt meter. I would need to get some thinner leads for it to test the PCM, but that seems like an easy enough think to check if I know what pins.

 

[macleanflood]

Factory Service Manuals including wiring diagrams are in the resources section. 8w should be the section.

I've got a 97 and suffer from none of this nonsense. And full disclosure no first hand experience...just plenty of forum reading and a really good memory for technical details.

Some of the sub $300 code readers will do DRBIII. I dare say you'd spend as much at a shop for someone who doesn't give a fuck and doesn't have a clue what they're doing.

Someone with better knowledge will chime in...and Google wranglertjforum DRBIII for more posts.

-Mac

 

[emedlin]

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-powertrain-pdf.14050/ only shows 3 PCM connectors where https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-service-manual-pdf.14047/ shows 4 PCM connectors. I know the 2006 has 4. Any clue why the first only shows 3? Is it late and I am just reading it wrong?

The PCM connections seem to be labeled by color black/black, black/orange, etc. From the picture I took it doesn't look mine are color coded. Is it just C1, C3, C3, C4 from passanger side to drivers side?


The pin C2 / 34 (k44 18db/gy) should line up with pin 3 on CPS.
The pin C2 / 27 (K900 20db/dg) should line up with pin 2 on the CPS.

 

[Pascal25]

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-powertrain-pdf.14050/ only shows 3 PCM connectors where https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2006-tj-service-manual-pdf.14047/ shows 4 PCM connectors. I know the 2006 has 4. Any clue why the first only shows 3? Is it late and I am just reading it wrong?

The PCM connections seem to be labeled by color black/black, black/orange, etc. From the picture I took it doesn't look mine are color coded. Is it just C1, C3, C3, C4 from passanger side to drivers side?
View attachment 586570

The pin C2 / 34 (k44 18db/gy) should line up with pin 3 on CPS.
The pin C2 / 27 (K900 20db/dg) should line up with pin 2 on the CPS.

3 connectors for manual transmission, 4 for auto.

Also the PA66 GF25 is describing the material of the plastic on the sensors (polyamide 6-6, or nylon, 25% glass fiber reinforced)

 

[emedlin]

Checked Signal and ground on the CPS back to the PCM with my voltmeter and I have continuity on both. Even when moving the wires around. Next I checked ground on the CPS harness back to the battery and to the engine block where it looks to be a ground near the deep stick. Both showed continuity with just under 1 ohm of resistance. I also checked on the CPS harness to make sure none of its pins had continuity with each other and that is fine. I had already checked when the ignition was on, but engine off and I get 5V on the 5V CPS harness. I also see 5V on the signal in the CPS harness when ignition on with engine off, which I assume is normal. Voltage was tested from CPs harness to ground on battery. So, I think based on that my wiring is if fine.

I also saw in the 06 TJ powertrain pdf that the Crank Position Sensor can also cause a P0344. Should I just replace that or find a shop with a DRBIII and see if they can figure out the issue. What brand is recommended for the Crank Position Sensor if I should replace it.

 

[JKP]

MOPAR if you can find it. Standard Ign is usually good as well.

The tool is used to align the cam and crank sensors. The PCM will tolerate a certain amount of mismatch and correct for it. Above that, it throws the cam/crank mismatch code and goes into limp mode.

 

[emedlin]

MOPAR if you can find it. Standard Ign is usually good as well.

The tool is used to align the cam and crank sensors. The PCM will tolerate a certain amount of mismatch and correct for it. Above that, it throws the cam/crank mismatch code and goes into limp mode.

Is there another code for mismatch or could the P0344 CPS circuit Intermittent be from the mismatch. I assumed Intermittent meant it was losing the signal?

 

[JKP]

P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT

 

[emedlin]

P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT

So, I haven't seen that one yet. Only P0344 with the new sensor.

 

[emedlin]

Well it just got worse. After I plugged everything back up it won't start. I have unplugged and replugged the PCM and the CPS with no change.

 

[JKP]

Just cranks over, no fire?

That sounds like the crank sensor.

It should start with no cam sensor, but will take a long crank.

 

[emedlin]

It would just crank over but not fire. Well, I didn't keep the key turned as I didn't want to kill the battery or anything. So, maybe after a long time however long that is it would have started. So, I took the sensor out and put the old one back in. It fired right up and no check engine light. So, I put the new sensor back in and the sensor bolt broke off. It must have been weak as I wasn't putting much force on it. Just using a small wrench. On the plus side it did start with the new sensor back in. Although I don't have a bolt to hold it in now. Anyone know the size of the bolt or the part number as I need a new one. Plus I have to get the old one out. Not a good day.

 

[JKP]

Dang.

Well, there's why your cam sensor signal was intermittent most likely.

Just take the bolt to the hardware store. That part is not sold separately.

Or get a new OPDA...

 

[emedlin]

Dang.

Well, there's why your cam sensor signal was intermittent most likely.

Just take the bolt to the hardware store. That part is not sold separately.

Or get a new OPDA...

Maybe, it did seem a little loose when I removed it. Although looking at the service manual, it is only suppose to be tighted to 15 in lbs. So, maybe I did over tighten it. Who knows. It just never seemed to get tight. Then I felt it just let go.

If I pull the OPDA straight out and don't move it, it should just drop back down in right. I don't need find the top center or anything. I think I am going to have to remove it to get the rest of the bolt out.

 

[emedlin]

I figure if I have to take out the OPDA I might as well replace the Dorman one that is in it. So, I just ordered the Crown 53010624AC from Amazon. It will be here Friday. Now to watch a few videos on how to change it. Doesn't look like much to it.

 

[JKP]

I figure if I have to take out the OPDA I might as well replace the Dorman one that is in it. So, I just ordered the Crown 53010624AC from Amazon. It will be here Friday. Now to watch a few videos on how to change it. Doesn't look like much to it.

As long as you line up the old one before you remove it, there's nothing to it.

Line up the OPDA holes, be sure the timing mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the timing pointer exactly, remove OPDA.

The new one will have a pin in the holes so that it is properly aligned.

You can adjust the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver to get the OPDA to point where it did before, but it doesn't really matter where it points as long as the wiring reaches. All that really matters is the engine is at TDC and the OPDA is pinned.

 

[emedlin]

As long as you line up the old one before you remove it, there's nothing to it.

Line up the OPDA holes, be sure the timing mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the timing pointer exactly, remove OPDA.

The new one will have a pin in the holes so that it is properly aligned.

You can adjust the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver to get the OPDA to point where it did before, but it doesn't really matter where it points as long as the wiring reaches. All that really matters is the engine is at TDC and the OPDA is pinned.

Would the OPDA holes line up if the timing mark on the crank pulley wasn't lined up? I watched 1 or 2 videos and they only mentioned lining up the OPDA holes.

 

[JKP]

All depends on how much slop is in your OPDA/cam gears and timing chain.

The crank mark indicates when the piston is at TDC.

The pinned OPDA is to be installed when piston 1 is at TDC.

 

[emedlin]

I took the top off the Dorman OPDA and it seems to have a fair amount of play. Especially up and down. Is that much play normal?

 

[JKP]

You're sliding it up and down the helical gear. I don't remember how much mine has, but it has some.

If you want to double check it after installing, you can remove the pin, rotate the crank around twice and everything should line up again. You only rotate the crank clockwise as that is the way it will run in operation and accounts for all the slack.