"Pacing myself" build

Miscalculations have been made. Measuring and relocation is in my future for the rear suspension. Rear shock body is making contact with the frame in my new mounting config. Glad I didn't cut off the stock lower shock mounts yet. Outboarding is a thing of dreams for me at this juncture, so some lower perch trimming will suffice. Should have done that from the beginning.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Miscalculations have been made. Measuring and relocation is in my future for the rear suspension. Rear shock body is making contact with the frame in my new mounting config. Glad I didn't cut off the stock lower shock mounts yet. Outboarding is a thing of dreams for me at this juncture, so some lower perch trimming will suffice. Should have done that from the beginning.
Click to expand...
Wait I’m lost, you have an pictures? This seems to be quite common on the rancho shock body configuration.
 
JamesAndTheSahara said:
Wait I’m lost, you have an pictures? This seems to be quite common on the rancho shock body configuration.
Click to expand...

It would be an issue with most shocks at the configuration I put them. Ok, the cliff notes version, it's in my build somewhere, but what I did was purchased Clayton Offroad's rear shock relocation brackets, Welded them in thinking, cool I also am strengthening the lower control arm brackets, right? Well, it shifts the shock out of harms way after the SYE, but it also brings the shock body closer to the inside of the frame.
20170416_145436.jpg

At full compression metal wants to kiss other metal just enough to make me uncomfortable about it. It became evident on my last offroad trip in our national forest trails when I hit a water measure hump faster than I should have. Bottomed out the rear and heard a nasty metal to metal hit that your should not hear. The outside edge of the shock body hit the frame enough to rub paint off of the shock, so that needs to be fixed.
 
bobthetj03 said:
It would be an issue with most shocks at the configuration I put them. Ok, the cliff notes version, it's in my build somewhere, but what I did was purchased Clayton Offroad's rear shock relocation brackets, Welded them in thinking, cool I also am strengthening the lower control arm brackets, right? Well, it shifts the shock out of harms way after the SYE, but it also brings the shock body closer to the inside of the frame.
View attachment 29013
At full compression metal wants to kiss other metal just enough to make me uncomfortable about it. It became evident on my last offroad trip in our national forest trails when I hit a water measure hump faster than I should have. Bottomed out the rear and heard a nasty metal to metal hit that your should not hear. The outside edge of the shock body hit the frame enough to rub paint off of the shock, so that needs to be fixed.
Click to expand...
Jez, thanks for clarifying. What are you going to do now, weld new shock relocators?
 
Confirmed my interference issue with the rear shocks. Should have done more research before burning in those Clayton mounts, but thankfully, I held off cutting my stock mounts, so a little perch trimming should get me back to no interference. Sucky part, I have to pull the springs and do this all over again. Kids, this is what happens when you don't do your homework.

Flexing courtesy of our shop forklift,
20180115_122800.jpg
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Driver side rear. You can see where the shock body was kissed by the frame. That happened on my forest service road adventure a few weeks ago when I hit a water measure berm faster than I should have and bottomed out the rear suspension.
20180115_122935.jpg

Passenger side. Ouch! Hope I did no permanent damage to the shocks.
20180115_123327.jpg
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Confirmed my interference issue with the rear shocks. Should have done more research before burning in those Clayton mounts, but thankfully, I held off cutting my stock mounts, so a little perch trimming should get me back to no interference. Sucky part, I have to pull the springs and do this all over again. Kids, this is what happens when you don't do your homework.

Flexing courtesy of our shop forklift,
View attachment 29087 View attachment 29088
Driver side rear. You can see where the shock body was kissed by the frame. That happened on my forest service road adventure a few weeks ago when I hit a water measure berm faster than I should have and bottomed out the rear suspension.
View attachment 29089
Passenger side. Ouch! Hope I did no permanent damage to the shocks.
View attachment 29090
Click to expand...
Definitely be glad you kept those old ones on there ;). I guess you and I just really enjoy pulling springs and do the same thing twice eh? Nice flex btw.
 
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Thought this was build thread worthy, so thought I'd post up what I was up to today.
Today's project was to fix my screw up with the rear lower shock mounts. Pulled the rear springs/shocks, let er droop and measured for where to clearance the spring perch. Sparks flew.
20180120_111123.jpg

Full bump
20180120_131913.jpg
Got about 0.5" of shock travel left at full bump, so good there.
20180120_131234.jpg

This was my limiter at bull bump. Damn rear track bar relocation bracket hitting the tub.
20180120_131159.jpg

Both sides dropped to full bump. Tire clearance good.
20180120_141922.jpg

Full flex, a bit of rub on the outer edge of the flare.
20180120_142257.jpg

All in all, not terrible, but some adjustments will be needed. I added another 3/8" of bump stop extension to the upper cup. I need to add another 3/8" to the bottom for a total of 2" of rear bump stop extension.
The body lift has reared its ugly head, but I think I can get away with the Rokmen 0.5" body lift, so just a small butt crack @JMT.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Confirmed my interference issue with the rear shocks. Should have done more research before burning in those Clayton mounts, but thankfully, I held off cutting my stock mounts, so a little perch trimming should get me back to no interference. Sucky part, I have to pull the springs and do this all over again. Kids, this is what happens when you don't do your homework.

Flexing courtesy of our shop forklift,
View attachment 29087 View attachment 29088
Driver side rear. You can see where the shock body was kissed by the frame. That happened on my forest service road adventure a few weeks ago when I hit a water measure berm faster than I should have and bottomed out the rear suspension.
View attachment 29089
Passenger side. Ouch! Hope I did no permanent damage to the shocks.
View attachment 29090
Click to expand...

Pulling Springs is no fun. I did that with my father in law with the old sketchy tool set. Father in law is a Mercedes master mechanic and he about shat himself. I have a friend in the luxury car tool business that has this masterpiece
ECDA7FD8-874B-437F-9291-1CDA46402E38.jpeg
 
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With my OME springs being a bit tired, I need to decide what to do next. I'm considering 3" springs. My issue here is finding a spring that is as good as OME's. BDS, Procomp, Currie, JKS? Need to do some more research. I don't mind using spacers as long as it's no more than a 1" spacer for leveling purposes.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
With my OME springs being a bit tired, I need to decide what to do next. I'm considering 3" springs. My issue here is finding a spring that is as good as OME's. BDS, Procomp, Currie, JKS? Need to do some more research. I don't mind using spacers as long as it's no more than a 1" spacer for leveling purposes.
Click to expand...
Hard to mess up a spring :)
 
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You can send me those tired non rusted OME springs once you decide lol. But seriously you’re making me think dammit! Don’t make me question my questions!


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Jay P said:
You can send me those tired non rusted OME springs once you decide lol. But seriously you’re making me think dammit! Don’t make me question my questions!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You can have them brother!
 
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