You save the money not going to the therapist complaining about feeling vibrations in all seats you sit in
"Pacing myself" build
- Thread starter bobthetj03
- Start date
You save the money not going to the therapist complaining about feeling vibrations in all seats you sit in
OP
I keep wishing it was all in my head. Bet you have a good therapist by now, lol!You save the money not going to the therapist complaining about feeling vibrations in all seats you sit in
OP
Current wheel BS is 3.75". They are beat up, so new wheels wouldn't be the end of the world. 4.5" BS is the go to?
OP
I think the goal is 4" effective backspacing. Whatever the hub kit adds + your wheel. For the minor difference between the front and rear I'm not sure I'd bother with spacers for the rear.
I think the big change is the smaller u joint axles if you have the 1350s now and machining the wheels if necessary.
OP
I'm struggling with not fixing the problem. The hub kit is nice and all, but it's still a bandaid.
I don’t think there’s another fix brother. I get vibes onsetting around 65-70. I’ve tried every angle that is reasonable, rebuilt both shafts, rebuilt TCase with 231 parts and with a 231 Tera Low. No change. Once I detach that front shaft I’m smooth as silk.
I don't mean neglect things that need to be taken care of, I just mean I don't think you will solve it by punching at little things.
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The live axle could be the problem, it could be a bunch of small things that add up.
OP
Yeah, I know. I'm coming to the realization that it's a problem that I've created that cannot be fixed unless I re-gear to slow things down. If I'm going to spend that kind of coin I might as well do the hub kit and move on. All the more reason I wanted to just throw in the towel and find a unicorn Rubi and start over.
I don't think you screwed anything up. It seems to be a bigger issue people either don't recognize or admit. Who's to say the rubi wouldn't be the same with different mods?
OP
This be true. The minute I try to change the unicorn, I would likely eff it up too. This is why I'm trying to sort out what I gots.
The hub kit adds 1” track width each side, effectively decreasing the backspace by 1”. I ran 4” backspace wheels on my hub kit for a while and it wasn’t bad, but it is certainly better now with the new 5” BS wheels giving me 4” net. You could try it with the current wheels and you may not notice enough to care to change them. Plus you can add so much caster back in, the handling will probably still feel better than before.
You don’t need spacers in the rear to make it even. It is okay for the front to be wider. I used spacers in the rear for clearance issues with 5” backspace wheels.
For the BBK, you just have to send your rotors to blaine and have him open the centerbore and ream the stud holes. I would send the actual hubs with them as well so he can match a stud and ream the hub holes if need be. Yukon doesn’t understand what hole size to use for studs apparently.
Your aftermarket wheels should already have a big enough centerbore. The hub kit doesn’t actually have a bigger hub than is on a TJ normally. Opening up the wheel centerbore is typically solving the problem of wheels that use stock center caps.
The kit will work with your existing inner axle shafts as well.
You don’t need spacers in the rear to make it even. It is okay for the front to be wider. I used spacers in the rear for clearance issues with 5” backspace wheels.
For the BBK, you just have to send your rotors to blaine and have him open the centerbore and ream the stud holes. I would send the actual hubs with them as well so he can match a stud and ream the hub holes if need be. Yukon doesn’t understand what hole size to use for studs apparently.
Your aftermarket wheels should already have a big enough centerbore. The hub kit doesn’t actually have a bigger hub than is on a TJ normally. Opening up the wheel centerbore is typically solving the problem of wheels that use stock center caps.
The kit will work with your existing inner axle shafts as well.
The problem that you and I have can't be fixed. The hub kit is the only real solution.
Just think how much time it's taken you to get here - ie no vibrations with front ds removed. Why would you not want to resolve this with the hub kit now that you are here?
You can sort out the wheel bs issue, and fitment issue with bbk. Blaine and several others here have done installs of the hub kit+bbk that work really really well.
It really is a question of buying the right wheels to work with the kit. You can retain everything else for now and upgrade later if you want to.
I have been following this on and off for a while. I am probably way late in asking this as I cannot remember specifically. Have you tried a different set of wheels and tires? Maybe barrow a set for a few days? swap tires with someone and see if they get vibes also? Just an idea.
OP
Yep, tried that. Borrowed my buddy's Birddogs with fresh set of KO2 metric 33's on them. No change.
There's the problem.... 35's would do the trick
OP
And now I have the same problem of trying to find a wheel that isn't black with 5" BS. It'll probably force me into a 17" wheel, which is fine.
Welcome to the club of terrible wheel choices.
If you’re willing to pay for beadlocks and customization then Trailready can get you what you want.