Picking up where I left off

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At risk of sounding clueless, how much of this do I need. Cost per jar is good deal less if buy 4 pack but don’t want them sitting on shelf forever just to pay less per jar.

I only bought one unit of what I linked, I’ll be working on them shortly and can let you know. But my gut with other greases I’ve used agrees with @Lou - unless you’re really packing some bearings I don’t think much is necessary for this specific application.
 
I have a tube of redline that fits in my grease gun. I’d imagine I could grease all my 15 JJ’s 5 or 6 times with just that, probably more to be honest. They don’t take a ton of grease.
 
Ive had a tube of Redline for almost 5 years, have dissasembled JJ's too many times to count, and i have half the tube left.
 
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Glad to hear that. To be honest I had heard this about the preferable way of greasing them to be taking them apart and packing them with grease. That’s what I’ll do ultimately, just spend a day removing one arm at a time and greasing the joints. That Johnny Joint tool I ordered should hopefully make it easy.
Don't pack them, just apply a coating to the race and ball, then reassemble.
 
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Ok guess that is settled. My brain always gets hung up trying to justify why I need the multipack so pay $12.50/item instead of $21.44 for single. As I have 2” and 2 1/2” JJ I probably should buy one jar and put that $ toward JJ tools.
 
When I was out wheeling last weekend with @starkey480, I kept hearing a weird noise underneath my vehicle when I would start getting to higher speeds and hitting bumps. It sounded like metal-on-metal, but it didn't sound bad, just like a piece of metal tapping against another piece of metal.

I was underneath the vehicle today with the wire wheel touching up some spots where there was some very light surface rust, I look up, and low and behold the Savvy engine skid is missing a bolt entirely from where it's held onto the frame rail bracket next to the header.

While I am not 100% certain this is the source of noise, it certainly stands to reason that it may be. Not sure how this happened, but it would appear someone may have just forgotten to install it. It didn't however make this noise until this last wheeling trip (and we had gone wheeling before then), so I can't really explain that.
 
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When I was out wheeling last weekend with @starkey480, I kept hearing a weird noise underneath my vehicle when I would start getting to higher speeds and hitting bumps. It sounded like metal-on-metal, but it didn't sound bad, just like a piece of metal tapping against another piece of metal.

I was underneath the vehicle today with the wire wheel touching up some spots where there was some very light surface rust, I look up, and low and behold the Savvy engine skid is missing a bolt entirely from where it's held onto the frame rail bracket next to the header.

While I am not 100% certain this is the source of noise, it certainly stands to reason that it may be. Not sure how this happened, but it would appear someone may have just forgotten to install it. It didn't however make this noise until this last wheeling trip (and we had gone wheeling before then), so I can't really explain that.

I had some of the center philips and one frame bolt fall out on my Colorado trip. Mostly because I’m just a dumbass who can’t tighten things. Shouldn’t be that big of a deal, just make sure you still have the spacer if it was one of the bolts that uses one between the skid and frame.
 
I had some of the center philips and one frame bolt fall out on my Colorado trip. Mostly because I’m just a dumbass who can’t tighten things.

I am not sure this is your fault, I have had them come loose more than a few times as well. Some of the others said the same thing and many have added blue loctite.
 
I had some of the center philips and one frame bolt fall out on my Colorado trip. Mostly because I’m just a dumbass who can’t tighten things. Shouldn’t be that big of a deal, just make sure you still have the spacer if it was one of the bolts that uses one between the skid and frame.

This is the bolt that is missing:

2A03E7CB-0858-43F8-AE72-B78CDCA875FC.jpeg
 
Serrated flange nuts are good lock nuts for this application so long as you get them tight enough. I lost some #4 phillips flat head fasteners before i bought a bit i could use on an impact.
 
My bad. For some reason I thought you meant the transfer skid into frame connection.

I bought bag of these from McMaster along with a bunch of the philips bolts. Pretty cheap and handy to keep around since none of the stores near me stock them.

View attachment 204495
I am lucky, the ACE near me has tons of these things.
 
My bad. For some reason I thought you meant the transfer skid into frame connection.

I bought bag of these from McMaster along with a bunch of the philips bolts. Pretty cheap and handy to keep around since none of the stores near me stock them.

View attachment 204495
You happen to have the size info handy, I was going to order some replacements and planned on pulling one out but if you happen to have it that would be easier.
 
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