Thanks Jerry, that explains it. It is a fixed offset. So which C-arm is aligned with the differential? Or are the c-arms +/-0.25 degrees from the differential?
Possible driveshaft or pinion angle issues
- Thread starter catbones2010
- Start date
Thanks Jerry, that explains it. It is a fixed offset. So which C-arm is aligned with the differential? Or are the c-arms +/-0.25 degrees from the differential?
OP
So just to update, trying to keep the caster at 5 made the axle / yoke be slightly upward then down like before, didnt fix the vibration tho. So, this time, I ignored the caster measurements and just went with making sure the driveshaft is equal position visually to the yoke, and also to the angle numbers. We will see how it rides after this. If not, maybe I'll get a TCL kit 1" drop and see if it goes away.
The transfer case drop only affects the rear drive shaft.
You are working on the front axle to DC angles, correct?
OP
Correct, you know I think before anything drop or shop alignment, etc.. I might go get my tires checked after all. Flipping them and whatever so far done, caster, etc.. I might still be having vibrations because of my tires.
Also for everyone else, visually the driveshaft, pinion, yoke, etc.. angles look good up front and since I put 33s, I forgot that I'm about going 3-5 miles faster then my speedo shows, so I'd say the vibes start at about 50-55. Going 60 is perfect, going 40-45 is perfect too.
Now for caster, I went from 7.7, to 7, 6, to 5 and didn't do a thing, still getting vibrations, little less probably between 5-6 degrees of caster but the axle is facing upwords more then the shaft, if I visually look at it. If I align those visually and per digital angle finder then the caster is back at 7/8. So starting to loose my mind with all of this.
That said, having issues with my digital angle finder. I've recalibrated it multiple times and still its a PITA to figure out the numbers. Specially if I put it on the C bottom area I get all kinds of readout, if I push it agains the nut for the ball joint its 6 for example, but if I move it away from it, I get weird numbers, even like 3... PITA all I gotta say. Didn't have that much trouble with 3" lift and 1.5" body lift then I'm having with a 2" lol.. and same tires.
OP
steering, about 50-55mph or about there...then it disappears and stable.... here is a video I have on FB
Okay, still the front.
I'd ditch the digital gauge and get the cheap mechanical plastic gauge that always works.
Keep the front pinion pointed at the DC front, with whatever caster that gets you.
Then you can focus on the wheels and tire balance.
Also, it may be worth while to send both drive shafts off to be balanced. Doing this solved a lot of vibration issues for me.
OP
Did, got the plastic whatever one ended up at 6 and 6 from what I can tell on it since well just weird placements on C. Here is the video if the above didn't work https://share.vidyard.com/watch/9d29qxD4n5TxZQmoZ5HmoT?autoplay=1
What are the age and miles on the tires? Sure looks and sounds like tires causing the vibrations. Does not sound like what my front DS sounded like when un ballanced.
OP
A year on the tires and like 4000 or so miles.
Here are some angles for ya to examine guys.
Driver C
Passenger C
Driveshaft
Rear dot of axle
OP
FYI they are mud tires, Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3... someone said what do I expect they are muds so maybe thats what it is, but remember no vibrations on the TJ.
At this point I read 3 pages and it’s all over the place. TC drop, rear, front, Pinion is “Higher” then DS Angle? Man, I can’t find a place on a Jeep where that should be?
Stick to the front, for all this work, just pull the front DS. Drive it and see if there are vibrations. If there are no vibrations, then you know that the DS is the issue.
Then, the front pinion angle is going to be below the DS angle, so that the Knuckle bottom half is slightly forward if the top of the knuckle.
Or flip the tires around and see if that fixes it, a little easier-ish. I’d pull the front DS and check.
Stick to the front, for all this work, just pull the front DS. Drive it and see if there are vibrations. If there are no vibrations, then you know that the DS is the issue.
Then, the front pinion angle is going to be below the DS angle, so that the Knuckle bottom half is slightly forward if the top of the knuckle.
Or flip the tires around and see if that fixes it, a little easier-ish. I’d pull the front DS and check.
OP
Might just as well but it's never been the rear, everything I was referring to was the front. That said, I might just as well drop the DS and see.
It is so easy to disconnect the front drive shaft and tie it up. Just do it, test drive it, and then you won’t have to wonder about that any longer.
OP
So got those tires balanced, rotated and from what I'm being told they dont have any issues in terms of dent, bent, egg shape, etc.. even got the spare on passenger side now with a rear tire put on driver. Still, having the shimmy vibes.
My thought is its either wheel hub, ball joint or trackbar. At the axle with the suspension up on jack stands I can put a crowbar between the bracket and trackbar at the axle side and move it left to right, back to front the trackbar very slightly but enough for me to see it move. The bushing is showing small tiny cracks in it, as seen in the photo too if you look close. I'm thinking maybe it dried out and got play. Would you agree?? enough of this tiny play to shimmy my steering at 50mph?
A bad wheel bearing, hub or ball joint wouldn't I get vibrations at any speed not just 45-50?
Vtx531
TJ Addict
OP
LOL... yeah, well I wasn't going to swap my lift to another either
at 2" isn't much to change much angles on things but maybe that front trackbar has worn bushing and needs to go and use some monster hardware that fits the trackbar without a sleeve, bigger hole in the bracket will also help if theres any worn spacing in the hole that bolt sits but at 50k Jeep, that wasn't driven in rain or snow, but sunny days, I doubt it other then bushing in trackbar. So MAYBE you were right on tire balance but I yet to have someone do road force balancing on them but like I said (which I'm with you a bit on this) swapping them from none shimmy TJ to an LJ and getting shimmy isn't tires.
So it's not that expensive to get a new track bar, adjustable.
If you read through here, the people I've learned to trust, will lay out that it's not the bolt size or hole per say, it's the clamping force. So if it's torque'd correctly, the clamping will hold it....unless the busing it worn out.
If the busing is gone, then I'd replace it.
On the tires, I've also seen people use Dyna Beads, which is what it sounds, putting small BB's into the tire, and they self balance out. It would give you an interesting look at it. I'd do the Track Bar then possibly the beads.
OP
I hear ya on the bushing, yeah a crowbar and I can put some wiggle to it, specially if I'm trying to wiggle it between the force of the clamp / bracket, like not side to side but front to back (if I'm explaining this right), I get movement that way too. Slight, very so slight but its there... moves a bit more at full lock left or right as well.