Problem With Metalcloak Track Bar

My Metalcloak front track bar heim joint started to fail somewhere around 10k miles. I didn't notice it until I was doing other work that required adjusting the bar. But after that, I realized it was plainly obvious during a dry steer test. It can't be seen by grabbing and shaking.

I guarantee that many who thinks their's is fine really isn't.
 
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My Metalcloak front track bar heim joint started to fail somewhere around 10k miles. I didn't notice it until I was doing other work that required adjusting the bar. But after that, I realized it was plainly obvious during a dry steer test. It can't be seen by grabbing and shaking.

I guarantee that many who thinks their's is fine really isn't.

You need some Cloak-Aid, too. And a nice hug.
 
You need some Cloak-Aid, too. And a nice hug.
They sent me a free unsolicited replacement when I publicly asked how common this was. That was appreciated, but it still doesn't fix a design or a price point problem.
 
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Ok, I will go back to my first comment on this=heim joint, if it is a common thread, swap it to a johnny joint in single shear...problem solved.
 
Ok, I will go back to my first comment on this=heim joint, if it is a common thread, swap it to a johnny joint in single shear...problem solved.
Easier said than done. Swapping to a JJ is a small welding project.
 
so I sorta remember your thread on this, but I dont remember why not?
Blaine and I discussed it a while back. There are clearance issues with the standard housings. I forget the specifics, but there is a reason that the Currie track bar has the JJ offset on the bar. They do sell the weld on housing with a specially sized JJ to build your own track bar.
 
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A newb suggestion....You might could use a Johnny Joint to replace the heim joint on the end of your trackbar. I did this when I had a Skycrapper Track bar. I still have the joint (i eventually replaced the trackbar with a Currie item). The joint I have is CE-9112N75-12. I only used the end for a couple of thousand miles. I sell and ship it for $25. You would need to verify that it fits your application.

97978
97979
 
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Blasphemy. The Church of MetalCloak demands your obedience.



Even if it was easy, you'd be stuck with a MetalCloak track bar. Is that what you want?

I haven't found reason to complain about the rest of the bar other than the not-heat-treated-but-solid-cromoly. Though I am open to suggestions. ;)
 
I haven't found reason to complain about the rest of the bar other than the not-heat-treated-but-solid-cromoly. Though I am open to suggestions. ;)


2 years ago, when I bought my 2004 Rubicon, I was pleased that it was already lifted. When I started having some driveability issues, I asked for advice and shared some pics on the Rubicon Owners forum. I was ridiculed for having a Skyjacker (Skycrapper) lift. It made me mad. I decided I could fix the issues without changing the lift. I spent several hundred dollars on things like the Johnny Joint that I shared in the previous post. I was reasonably successful. The Jeep drove OK for a while. When I started noticing some play in the new Skycrapper Control Arm bushings, I decided to fix everything once and for all. I switched to Curry steering, front track bar. and control arms about 6 months ago. The difference in how the Jeep drives is amazing. It makes me wish I had listened to the guys on the ROF and gone to Currie 1st.

Skycrapper
P8030002-L.jpg


Currie
new%20steering-L.jpg
 
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