Re-gear question: 3.07 to ?

I just went through same deal as you. Lurked and read for a while before changing gears. I decided on 4.10 from 3.07 and I’m very happy with end result. One guy in one of my posts said it was like Forest Gump running with his braces on and after they fell off he was able to take off. Perfect analogy!
If it’s a daily driver and some off road the 4.10 is perfect.
Good luck!


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Hey man I know this is a really old thread but I just ran across it and I have Dana 30/35 with 3.07 gears and am thinking about changing to 4.10 (I may never run bigger than a 31” and definitely no larger than a 32” tire) and was wondering what you paid to have the regear done. TIA
 
Hey man I know this is a really old thread but I just ran across it and I have Dana 30/35 with 3.07 gears and am thinking about changing to 4.10 (I may never run bigger than a 31” and definitely no larger than a 32” tire) and was wondering what you paid to have the regear done. TIA

Most re-gears run anywhere from $1000 to $1400 not including the parts.
 
Most re-gears run anywhere from $1000 to $1400 not including the parts.
Chris you are like the damn tree of life of the TJ Forums. Haha. Thanks a ton, man. I was thinking 2-2.5k so I’m happy to hear that lower “quote”.
 
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Chris you are like the damn tree of life of the TJ Forums. Haha. Thanks a ton, man. I was thinking 2-2.5k so I’m happy to hear that lower “quote”.

Haha, no problem!

You'll have to call around a number of places, but there is even a shop here locally that does gears for $400 per axle (isn't that what you paid @psrivats?). That's very rare though. I've had two sets of gears done on both my TJs, and both times they charged me $600 per axle (not including parts). That seems to be a fair price. Anything less might be too good to be true (make sure to read reviews), and anything more expensive must be a very busy shop who can simply charge higher rates due to the demand.
 
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Haha, no problem!

You'll have to call around a number of places, but there is even a shop here locally that does gears for $400 per axle (isn't that what you paid @psrivats?). That's very rare though. I've had two sets of gears done on both my TJs, and both times they charged me $600 per axle (not including parts). That seems to be a fair price. Anything less might be too good to be true (make sure to read reviews), and anything more expensive must be a very busy shop who can simply charge higher rates due to the demand.

I think I paid 1500 parts and labor for both axles.
 
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I wish I could agree with that. I ran with 4.10 gearing with 33" tires/4.0L engine/5-speed transmission and the rpms were slightly too low.... I had to downshift with even minor grades. Being slightly undergeared like that was extremely frustrating for me. Trust me, not that 4.56 would be slightly overgeared, it's far better to be slightly overgeared than slightly undergeared like 4.10 is for 33" tires.
Hi Jerry, Just learning more about re-gearing and wanted to better understand the calculations behind these. I recently upgraded to 37" (35.5" actual) on 2005 TJ with 6MT. Its certainly under-geared but fully "drivable". the intent is to use it on city roads only for short commute - no off-roading. (posted about it here)

There are lots of discussions with strong recommendations that even 4.56 is not enough for 35" tires and to go with to go 4.88 or even 5.13. In order to achieve the same "ground speed", upgrading 28" (stock factory size for 2005 TJ x) with 3.07 ratio to 35.5" would require gearing of 3.96 (226*3.07 / 175). This would give about 27% higher gearing ratio and seems accurate based on my speedometer off-set (actual speed is also about 27% higher than what speedometer shows).

So, unless my math is completely off, and since most recommend higher gearing (4.56 or 4.88 with 35") does that mean that the stock configuration is undergeared to start with? Thanks.
 
I had to downshift with even minor grades. Being slightly undergeared like that was extremely frustrating for me
Which is why Gerry drives an automatic and why manufacturers have almost eliminated clutches. No one understands what overdrive is for so they let the computer do the shifting automatically. I tow a trailer in the mountains behind a TJR and down shift often but I still wish I had 3.73s instead of 4.10s. I do a lot of highway driving between jobs and 4.10s without a trailer are a bit too short at 70mph. Nothing wrong with dropping to 4th on a steep mountain grade.
 
Which is why Gerry drives an automatic and why manufacturers have almost eliminated clutches. No one understands what overdrive is for so they let the computer do the shifting automatically. I tow a trailer in the mountains behind a TJR and down shift often but I still wish I had 3.73s instead of 4.10s. I do a lot of highway driving between jobs and 4.10s without a trailer are a bit too short at 70mph. Nothing wrong with dropping to 4th on a steep mountain grade.
Regear it to 3.07's so you can drop to second.
 
2005 TJ 2 door, 4.0L, just added a 4inch long arm lift kit. Moved from 15x9x31 tires/wheels to 15x12.5x33. Manual 6 speed tranny.
Tranny can no longer pull hills in 5th or 6th gear.
Differential is a 3:07 (current).
 
Personally I'd go 4.88 because I'd rather have the lower crawl ratio offroad but if it's mainly a DD, 4.56 would be great.
 
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@JMT ran 4.56 with 33's and a six speed. I'm sure he'll chime in.
 
2005 TJ 2 door, 4.0L, just added a 4inch long arm lift kit. Moved from 15x9x31 tires/wheels to 15x12.5x33. Manual 6 speed tranny.
Tranny can no longer pull hills in 5th or 6th gear.
Differential is a 3:07 (current).
456 is a great ratio for 33’s with the 4.0 and 6-speed. I lived in Fredericksburg, TX (Hill Country) and never had trouble pulling hills with that ratio. I wasn’t hunting for gears either.

For a little more perspective, I’m currently running 456’s with 35’s and it’s not bad at all, but if I had a preference with 35’s I’d go with 488.
 
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