Re-gearing for 33's

If you were to go drive with a 33" BFG KO2 and did the rpm vs speed calculations, 32.7" will not be correct.

I would like for you to back calculate the advertised revs per mile (640) and tell me what you get. It will not be 32.7" and clearly both specs can't be right if they're different, right?

BTW, Blaine does not agree that the hub height x2 gives erroneous information and I have never known any method Blaine uses to be erroneous.
Look again... even BFG, its manufacturer, says its actual diameter is 32.7" at the bottom of the screen shot.
33.webp
 
Hub height x2 is different than whatever rpms per mile the tire manufacturer came up with. Hub height x2 will be more specific to the vehicle because it accounts for variances in tire pressure and vehicle weight. The tire manufacturer does not know these things.

Hub height x2 can also be verified by recording the gps speed at a given engine rpm and adjusting the tire diameter in a gear ratio calculator until the rpm and speed match what was recorded.

Hub height x2 will be the same as the adjusted tire diameter used in the gear ratio calculator.

Both hub height and tire rpm have always been in sync perfectly, despite vehicle weight or tire pressure. This is on tires that are not significantly worn anyways.

My main point for Jerry was that the revs per mile calculates to a different (smaller) diameter than the "advertised diameter" (the 32.7" in this case). If you do the math on 640 rpm, it comes out to 31.51". That is spot on and has always matched GPS tests as well.

The only methods I've found to be incorrect are going off of the advertised diameter and doing anything dumb like measuring the literal tire diameter on the vehicle in any dimension (horizontal, vertical, etc). Hub height x2 is fine but unless the tire is way worn down, going off of the rpm is very accurate in my experience with 10 or so different tires I've tried on.
 
Both hub height and tire rpm have always been in sync perfectly, despite vehicle weight or tire pressure. This is on tires that are not significantly worn anyways.

My main point for Jerry was that the revs per mile calculates to a different (smaller) diameter than the "advertised diameter" (the 32.7" in this case). If you do the math on 640 rpm, it comes out to 31.51". That is spot on and has always matched GPS tests as well.

The only methods I've found to be incorrect are going off of the advertised diameter and doing anything dumb like measuring the literal tire diameter on the vehicle in any dimension (horizontal, vertical, etc). Hub height x2 is fine but unless the tire is way worn down, going off of the rpm is very accurate in my experience with 10 or so different tires I've tried on.
I don't really care, I go by what the tire's manufacturer says. They certainly know the precise diameter of the tire they manufactured.
 
Look again... even BFG, its manufacturer, says its actual diameter is 32.7" at the bottom of the screen shot.
View attachment 450412

Jerry, you are not paying attention. I know what BFG lists the advertised diameter as. It is not correct.

BFG lists that exact tire as 640 revs per mile. 5280/640 = 8.25 feet per Revolution. 8.25 X 12 = 99” per rev.

99/3.14159 = 31.51”. THAT is the correct diameter for a new and not heavily worn 33” BFG. Not 32.7”.
 
I don't really care, I go by what the tire's manufacturer says. They certainly know the precise diameter of the tire they manufactured.

You do care. As for going by the tire manufacturer’s specs, so do I, I go by the revolutions per mile that don’t calculate out to the advertised diameter. The advertised diameter has never ever been known to be correct.
 
Both hub height and tire rpm have always been in sync perfectly, despite vehicle weight or tire pressure. This is on tires that are not significantly worn anyways.

My main point for Jerry was that the revs per mile calculates to a different (smaller) diameter than the "advertised diameter" (the 32.7" in this case). If you do the math on 640 rpm, it comes out to 31.51". That is spot on and has always matched GPS tests as well.

The only methods I've found to be incorrect are going off of the advertised diameter and doing anything dumb like measuring the literal tire diameter on the vehicle in any dimension (horizontal, vertical, etc). Hub height x2 is fine but unless the tire is way worn down, going off of the rpm is very accurate in my experience with 10 or so different tires I've tried on.

Hub height x2 will always be accurate to the vehicle at the time of measurement. It doesn't matter if the tires are brand new or worn bald. Just like the verification will always be accurate to the vehicle at the time of measurement.

Understanding this means we don't need to know or care what the manufacturer says about their tire measurements.
 
I was curious about advertised vs true tire diameter a while ago and did a little experiment. Tires are BFG KO2 33s at 26psi. Measuring ground to hub center using squares to be precise got 15.5 inches at all 4 tires or 31" diameter. Making a mark on a lug and marking the street then rolling ahead 1 revolution measured 98.75 inches repeated several times. The actual ground measurement of 1 rotation of 98.75" calculates to a diameter of 31.45" I didn't try different pressures to see if the actual ground distance changed.

Conclusion: measuring to hub center should have resulted in a rolling distance of 97.34" but actual measured distance is 98.75" . The difference of 1% isn't much but it isn't zero either. My Jeep with the 33s and 4.10s and NV3550 shows the exact RPMs in the calculator when I use the diameter calculated from measuring 1 revolution on the ground.
 
I have Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 33x12.5R15

The nominal diameter = 33"
The published diameter from Goodyear = 32.8"

Using the calculations from mechguru that I linked to before:

R = 32.8/2 = 16.4
SLR = 0.96 x 16.4 = 15.744
Rolling Circumference = 2 x PI x SLR = 98.92

The rolling diameter is therefore = 98.9 / PI = 31.48"

Look at that.. it's almost exactly 2x my hub height of 31.5". :D

So I have taken the published diameter and calculated 2x hub height from it.

Andy
 
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I was curious about advertised vs true tire diameter a while ago and did a little experiment. Tires are BFG KO2 33s at 26psi. Measuring ground to hub center using squares to be precise got 15.5 inches at all 4 tires or 31" diameter. Making a mark on a lug and marking the street then rolling ahead 1 revolution measured 98.75 inches repeated several times. The actual ground measurement of 1 rotation of 98.75" calculates to a diameter of 31.45" I didn't try different pressures to see if the actual ground distance changed.

Conclusion: measuring to hub center should have resulted in a rolling distance of 97.34" but actual measured distance is 98.75" . The difference of 1% isn't much but it isn't zero either. My Jeep with the 33s and 4.10s and NV3550 shows the exact RPMs in the calculator when I use the diameter calculated from measuring 1 revolution on the ground.

Come back with a measurement of 10,000 tire rotations.
 
Had my 2005 TJ with 4.0L automatic lifted and added 33’s. It has Dana 30/186mm front and 35/194mm rear. 373 rear axle ratio. Which would make it feel more like original in terms of power/response? 4.11 or 4.56 ?
Any firsthand experience would be appreciated.
Thanks

Regardless of the back and forth in here, the grim Jeeper website is a great tool to estimate your RPMs…and you want 5.13s for your 33s and 42RLE.

If you had a front Dana 44 I’d recommend getting 5.38s for 33s because it only revs about 150 more RPMs than 5.38s around 70mph.

You can’t run 5.38s in a Dana 30 so you want the next best option which are 5.13s. There is no practical debate worth having on this that’s your best answer.

I’ve seen guys regret not going low enough because they thought lower RPMs would be better for the highway to not overrev (that’s a mistake bc it’s a dog and doesn’t want to get up to speed on the highway…you would be wasting your money). I’ve yet to see someone say they went too low.

With 5.13s you will be around 3000 at 75mph. That’s where u want to be and you would gain nothing by doing 4.88 other than having less drivability and being unhappy with your choice. Best to do it right and move on with life.
 
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Come back with a measurement of 10,000 tire rotations.

With the RPMs from the Torque app and ground speed from GPS what would be the reason? The difference @ 70 between hub distance and 1 rotation calculations is about 30 rpms.
 
With the RPMs from the Torque app and ground speed from GPS what would be the reason? The difference @ 70 between hub distance and 1 rotation calculations is about 50 rpms.

I'm suggesting that your measurement of a single tire rotation is inaccurate.
 
Measuring from the ground to the center with the tires on the ground at normal inflation gives an erroneous diameter. Especially since the hub height would vary with tire pressure which of course does not affect the tire's true diameter. Go to the tire manufacturers website to get its true accurate diameter which won't vary by air pressure which does not affect its circumference. Its circumference is what dictates the tire's rpm while driving.

This is the BFG 33x12.50 tire whose actual diameter is 32.7"
View attachment 450382

Next time you drive on the road/hwy, note the rpms and speed very carefully and jot them down at various speeds.

Then go play with Grimm jeeper calculator and plug in different tire sizes to see what matches what you see on your jeep and report back :)

You will see that what @jjvw said (2x hub height) is pretty darned close. If you don't believe us, ask Blaine who will confirm that you are incorrect.
 
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I'm suggesting that your measurement of a single tire rotation is inaccurate.

Doing it 6 times carefully and having them within 1/8 isn't terribly inaccurate. Pretty easy to see when a mark on the side of a lug is touching the road. Not worth debating over 30 rpms.
 
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