Rear crossmember cutting

Good thread, I was ready to pounce on a JKS track bars for my next step, I will now spend the extra cash on Currie.

it would almost seem, all that I need to replace, I might as well just buy the whole kit at this point. Jesus, I have decent shocks...gotta replace the rear.
 
The bar starts to bend toward the gas tank skid 3” from the axle joint.
To be blunt, it’s square.
 
Which end for the JKS trackbar do you have?
I ran into issues with mine and found out JKS makes 2 ends that screw into the bar. Once I got the other one it helped with mine.

I'll post pictures in the morning.
 
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That image was at droop. This image only shows the axle side clearly at full stuff/bump.
IMG_2702.JPG


The Rock Jock bar did/does not touch the crossmember, tub, exhaust pipe, or fuel tank skid. I made a few changes since then that have improved clearance for everything nearby.
 
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This is all putting a wrench in my plans to get my 4” springs installed. Will have to keep the Currie bar in my shopping cart while installing the 4” since I have the same exact setup as @JMT.
 
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How does the Currie angled TB relocation bracket compare to others?
 
the MC bar don't like the exhaust tube either......seems like that's our biggest problem back there.

k yours fits....... but that's not a stock bend on that exhaust either. that tubes been over bent and crushed to accommodate that bar.

for what reason do we raise the rear axle bracket instead of lowering the frame end? what's stopping us from adding the 2" change in elevation there? where is any/the interference at that point?
 
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How does the Currie angled TB relocation bracket compare to others?
It looks very similar to the JKS, except the Currie calls for welding the lower tab to the axle
 
I was told that David Kishpaugh sells a bracket that replaces the OEM on the axle, rotating it forward relative to the pinion to avoid this issue. Heard he did not like the angled brackets
 
the MC bar don't like the exhaust tube either......seems like that's our biggest problem back there.

k yours fits....... but that's not a stock bend on that exhaust either. that tubes been over bent and crushed to accommodate that bar.

for what reason do we raise the rear axle bracket instead of lowering the frame end? what's stopping us from adding the 2" change in elevation there? where is any/the interference at that point?
Yes, that is an aftermarket 2.5 inch exhaust tube. Had the system been shortened like it is in the image below, there would have been clearance for the oversized tube. Extended shock length was 24.5 inch, it's now 22.95 inch, which of course means less droop, and the current LCAs are shorter.
Crossmember to Swabar Gap.JPG
.
 
Do you have a picture at full stuff? @strumble8 and I have moved that bolt. Drilled a new hole towards the rear and reinstalled. Its a bit of a pain to get it back in there but its possible. I am using a long discontinued MC trackbar (the horror!) and have had to trim both the savvy skid, prior to the outboard, and the crossmember just a hair when we finally performed the outboard.

20200506_080451.webp
 
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Do you have a picture at full stuff? @strumble8 and I have moved that bolt. Drilled a new hole towards the rear and reinstalled. Its a bit of a pain to get it back in there but its possible. I am using a long discontinued MC trackbar (the horror!) and have had to trim both the savvy skid, prior to the outboard, and the crossmember just a hair when we finally performed the outboard.

View attachment 159079
You cut the bolt off and made a slit. It’s hard to relocate that bolt up top. Looks like you Moved it less than 1”. You also trimmed that brace piece a bit. I’m surprised that is all you needed to solve the interference, especially since you had to trim that edge off the crossmember.
 
That image was at droop. This image only shows the axle side clearly at full stuff/bump.
View attachment 159047

The Rock Jock bar did/does not touch the crossmember, tub, exhaust pipe, or fuel tank skid. I made a few changes since then that have improved clearance for everything nearby.

Move your lines and wires out of the way or you'll cut them with the trackbar mount.
 
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Well, after researching bending the JKS, I think that is out as an option. If you bend it one way and go to far, that is it, you can't go back with a typical tube bender. To get it right you would need to make two bends, one to clear the crossmember and another to line the joint on one end back up with the bracket. If either bend is a mistake, the trackbar is trash. I think I'll just install it for now with lower CA's as short as they can go, adjust the top for the pinion and hope for the best. At least I should clear the crossmember. My wheels will not be centered in the wheel well and that is a big frustration since I want this perfect. If I get it all set up and am unhappy, I'll just get the Currie bar.

Probably the JKS bar is good for someone doing no tuck or a small tuck and is converting to an SYE and DC.
 
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Move your lines and wires out of the way or you'll cut them with the trackbar mount.
The lens perspective is misleading, the breather tub and wire loom are not between the trackbar mount and tub in that early image. The tube coupler only slightly touched the side of the mount at that stage, and there is a gap between the two now.
...I made a few changes since then that have improved clearance for everything nearby.
 
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Here are the 2 different ends that you can get for the JKS trackbar. Don't know which one you have and if the other end would work.

20200506_134045.webp


20200506_134102.webp
 
Here are the 2 different ends that you can get for the JKS trackbar. Don't know which one you have and if the other end would work.

View attachment 159213

View attachment 159214
Mine looks like the one with the slight bend (on the right in the pic). If I can get the other one it would move it forward, away from the crossmember. I have a JJ in that end. Is that easy to move over?
 
Well, after researching bending the JKS, I think that is out as an option. If you bend it one way and go to far, that is it, you can't go back with a typical tube bender. To get it right you would need to make two bends, one to clear the crossmember and another to line the joint on one end back up with the bracket. If either bend is a mistake, the trackbar is trash. I think I'll just install it for now with lower CA's as short as they can go, adjust the top for the pinion and hope for the best. At least I should clear the crossmember. My wheels will not be centered in the wheel well and that is a big frustration since I want this perfect. If I get it all set up and am unhappy, I'll just get the Currie bar.

Probably the JKS bar is good for someone doing no tuck or a small tuck and is converting to an SYE and DC.

Not to dissuade you from Currie, but when I was bending my front Currie TB, I was making small bends throughout the bar to sneak up on the right shape. This included bending it back a bit. Just be careful how you load it in the press.