Depends on how much travel you want out of the rear suspension. The shorter the distance from each end to the center pivot, the less travel it will have.
With 12" shocks, I'm guessing something in the 12-14" range. I'm not sure where that would go, especially if the gas tank is still in the way.
He says 8" of wheel travel. That is only factory travel on a JK. And that setup would only work with factory control arm mounts or a 3 link.
I forgot about that. In their literature they say they use it on their 6 inch lift with 12 inch travel shocks.
This is not full bump. Those currie bumps will compress. Make sure you understand this incase things are very cramped or at their limits.
Well, whether it solves the problem or not, that is some awesome puzzle-fab you pulled off on those brackets. Nice work.So I am going to post an update on my progress, going to be long. I decided to raise the track bar the same amount it was over the original mounts, 2".
Made some extensions to go on top of old track bar bracket.
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Raised mount -
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Of course many of you already know what is going to happen. At near full bump, the track bar this the gas tank mount/frame brace.
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Well, do not know if you try right? So the bar needs to move forward, hmmmm
Lets flip it to the other side and see what happens.....
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Got to full bump with a little more than an inch to spare. Lots more room to pass by the frame. I think this might work.
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Clearances are looking good on the drivers side. I reinstalled the passenger UCAM, and set everything up, pinion angle, centering axle. Up and down movement was good from bump to full extension. And flex is good side to side, did not break any mounts off flexing.I think I am getting there.
So time to reconstruct the track bar mount. I cut the back part off, and added a forward mount on top of UCAM.
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Looking real good. Glad you could figure out the axle centering issue,. As Blaine said, you're still going to have some bind when cycling by hand. Just due to the design coupled with the stiffness of the control arms and joints. But when you're offroad the weight of the Jeep will allow full flex.
Paul, Thanks again for taking the time to talk about things. After our discussion, it gave me the motivation to get this better.
I knew there is always alot of bind when the drivers side droops, and my theory was if I could flex either way without the tacked in mounts busting off, I should be good. My first go round I let the drivers droop, and the passenger blew off, so I knew I had some work to do.
Thanks. There is not a whole lot to weld to on the UCAM brackets, so had to get creative, The last thing I wanted to worry about is one breaking when going down the road. I had never thought about using a jig saw to cut 1/4" steel, but it actually works pretty good. A band saw would be great.
Shall we call it Currie bump? Full bump +1? This has been calculated in, just figured I did not need to mention it.
Full bump is really the compressed shock. Currie bumps are nothing more than good jounces that slow down the last bit of travel.
Awesome work!So I am going to post an update on my progress, going to be long. I decided to raise the track bar the same amount it was over the original mounts, 2".
Made some extensions to go on top of old track bar bracket.
View attachment 216627
Raised mount -
View attachment 216628
Of course many of you already know what is going to happen. At near full bump, the track bar this the gas tank mount/frame brace.
View attachment 216630
View attachment 216629
View attachment 216631
Well, do not know if you try right? So the bar needs to move forward, hmmmm
Lets flip it to the other side and see what happens.....
View attachment 216632
Got to full bump with a little more than an inch to spare. Lots more room to pass by the frame. I think this might work.
View attachment 216634
View attachment 216633
View attachment 216636
Clearances are looking good on the drivers side. I reinstalled the passenger UCAM, and set everything up, pinion angle, centering axle. Up and down movement was good from bump to full extension. And flex is good side to side, did not break any mounts off flexing.
So time to reconstruct the track bar mount. I cut the back part off, and added a forward mount on top of UCAM.
View attachment 216641
View attachment 216642
View attachment 216643
That would suck to do all that work and still end up with factory travel. But it seems like it would act more like a 2 way limiting strap and still let each wheel go much further articulating independently.
Just to be clear, I'm not considering putting this on mine or anyone else's rig, it's just one of my exercises in curiosity.
Check out this guys YouTube channel on suspension geometry. It's mainly for airbag setups but there is a ton of suspension set up info that may help you when you start to beat your head against a wall. Pedantic Publishing
Check out this guys YouTube channel on suspension geometry. It's mainly for airbag setups but there is a ton of suspension set up info that may help you when you start to beat your head against a wall. Pedantic Publishing
Just an update on this, I did know much about suspension geometry going into this, and this was an exercise and experimentation. Overall, after putting about 100 miles on, I notice no difference in how the Jeep handles or performs on the street. Kind of frustrated and disappointed.
Finished product below.
Finished product below.
You haven't really changed the geometry much within the limits of normal street travel. more of fine-tuning the details. The kinda thing that when compiled together with 10 other fine tunings can make a huge difference. Still, great work.Just an update on this, I did know much about suspension geometry going into this, and this was an exercise and experimentation. Overall, after putting about 100 miles on, I notice no difference in how the Jeep handles or performs on the street. Kind of frustrated and disappointed.
Finished product below.
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The street performance was the focus of this exercise, and was hoping to influence it the most. Do not know what else to tune, guess I could take the LCA and switch it back to original position. Before I started this, I inputted the dimensions in the calculator, and I had anti-squat at about 45% and now finished, it is at around 72% anti-squat. If I were to switch the LCA to OEM position, according to calculator, anti-squat would rise to 102%. I know to take the info with a grain of salt, I guess I can set it there and see how it works.
I wanted to get more control of the lean and drivers front rise on acceleration.