I thought the same, but the Lyman manual shows the same min max loads for both pistol and rifle in 357. Both show 13.4 gr min and 14.9 gr max
Reloading for the rest of us
- Thread starter StG58
- Start date
OP
So do I need to pay that much attention to case manufacturer and primer manufacturer and find loads for specific combinations of each or will it all be safe as long as the primer type and case caliber is the same?
I used to load that bullet in the .357 Herrett in my Thomson Center Contender Super 14 a very long time ago. Had a lot of fun with it. I also had a bit of fun with the 200 grain version loaded up to 2000 fps with 2000 fpe IIRC. Unfortunately there weren't many good rifle bullets in that caliber back then.
OP
No, you're not overthinking it at all.
Start at the low end of the Lyman data and see how it shoots.
Each case manufacturer builds cases a little bit differently, even though they are all within standard. The Federal cases are nice cases by the way. They use good brass and are a little heavier than the norm. That translates to a slightly decreased case capacity, and slightly increased chamber pressures. Starting low, you should be just fine.
Flat primers are normal and expected, within reason. When they start to flow and crater you are way over pressure, and the load is dangerous.
That is one cool looking gun. Had to look it up. And that's one hell of a round to pump out of that little sucker. I bet that thing was a blast
OP
I'd leave it at home until you get a little more mileage under your belt. Most of the ranges that I am aware of around here don't allow reloading on the range itself, only in the parking lot, and that's frowned upon. Pull out a bench at a range and there is going to be a million "experts" there immediatly offering advice and telling you that you are doing it wrong, you have the wrong gear, you're using the wrong powder, the wrong brass, the wrong bullet, the wrong primer, the wrong rifle, you have a bad haircut and your mother dresses you funny.
I stopped going to ranges a long time ago because I plain got tired of all the free advice.
I want to touch on one thing in your comment here...
With a little experience, and it doesn't take much, you can pretty much go with any case, powder, primmer and bullet you choose. I was hoping to eliminate those destractions while you were starting out so that you would focus on reloading technique. The reloading technique, the steps you perform and in what order, are what is going to keep you safe and get you to an accurate reload. Does that make sense?
I'm lucky to be part of a great rifle club, they won't mind reloading at the range and a certain portion of the range is separated by 10 foot concrete walls so you end up with your own private range with lots of privacy. But I could definitely see that going awry at your normal range. I probably won't get it out there right away, but I would suck making a trip out there just find ding out that my load is too hot.
I never went to a range either until I moved to iowa... Now there isn't another option, unless I find someone with a lot of property and a natural backstop of some sort. Hills are few and far between here lol.
Absolutely, and since I have no idea how to go about choosing a safe load at the moment I won't be doing that quite yet. Hopefully one day
egclassic
TJ Enthusiast
egclassic
TJ Enthusiast
Again,
Start low, make up 5 rounds, then increase charge by .2 gns make 5 more on so on till you get to near max.
Try them and see what works best in your rifle. Do this every time you switch powders, primers and bullets.
BTW, You will eventually need a bullet puller, just in case.
Start low, make up 5 rounds, then increase charge by .2 gns make 5 more on so on till you get to near max.
Try them and see what works best in your rifle. Do this every time you switch powders, primers and bullets.
BTW, You will eventually need a bullet puller, just in case.
Sounds like a good plan! I just picked up a box containing a bullet puller off my front steps about 30 seconds ago haha.
OP
Do that each time you switch any one component. Ball powders like a full case or sometimes a bit of compression to burn correctly, especially the slow ball powders. That works out well though, as it is easy to see if you have the correct amount of powder in the case. Always look in the cases and make sure that they all appear to have the same amount of powder in them before you go to seating bullets. It becomes second nature after awhile.
Also, when you seat the primer, make a habit of running your finger across the base of the case. The primer should be just below the level of the surrounding case. Not level and not proud.
OP
When you are first starting out, seat the bullet and then crimp in two operations. I still do that so that I can check seating depth (cartridge COL).
It was a whole bunch of fun. When I was loading it, I could never understand why folks were fire forming .30-30 when new unfired .375 Winchester brass was readily available. I never had a single split neck doing it that way and had quite a few when I tried .30-30 brass.
OP
The gods weep at the thought of 375 Winchester brass being formed to another cartridge. It's almost impossible to find now. The closest is Buffalo Bore loaded 38-55 rounds. The lack of brass kept me from buying a pristine Winchester Big Bore in 375 for less than $600 this year.
I had no idea it was scarce. Back when I was doing it, I could put my hands on boxes of it any time I wanted some. My dad was a Model 94 .30-30 fanatic and that was all he hunted with. I wound up with essentially the same gun in .375 Winchester and sent it to him and he actually liked it enough to hunt with it.
My dad died last year. My sister was the executor of the estate. She asked if I wanted the guns back and I told here as long as there were no strings attached, I'd be very pleased to take them. She said there were several guns and a bunch of ammunition that was worth a lot of money which I attributed to her not knowing much about guns and ammo. I dug around a bit looking for .375 ammo for sale and apparently it is hard to find which I was unaware of. I do have to wonder if perhaps he ratholed a bunch of it and that's what she is talking about?
That said, my total interest in finding out is this post because I can't handle the strings that come with a conversation with her.
That said, my total interest in finding out is this post because I can't handle the strings that come with a conversation with her.
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OP
I don't know what the deal is with 375 Winchester. Ammo is hard to find, and expensive when you do. Buffalo Bore has some "Heavy" 38-55 that they recommend for use in the 375. Haven't tried it though. 375 is a good all purpose round. Properly loaded, it'll work on anything in North America out to about 200 yards. Despite what the manufacturers say, that's good and plenty for any normal person to hunt with.
Winchester used to make runs of 375 once a year, loaded and brass, and was the last ammo company to do so to my knowledge. For such a good round, it just never took off to any extent and the lack of reloading components and loaded ammo never helped. If I had the money, I'd have a stainless Model 94 or stretched Model 92 made up in 375 for a truck (Jeep) gun and a Ruger #1 for a precision / plinking rifle.
If you happen to run across your Dad's 375, feel free to give me a holler. There are tips and tricks to get those old Winchester Big Bores to shoot 1 MOA at 100 yards with regularity.