so going back to the original topic, if I want to make the ride a little smoother, would it be better to replace the springs and then the shocks or just shocks?
Replacing the coil springs
- Thread starter 2006TJ1
- Start date
Just shocks. All the springs do is hold up the weight of the Jeep. The shocks control how the Jeep returns to ride height after hitting an imperfection
does anyone know a way I can identify the current shocks I have? the PO painted the whole underside black along w pretty much everything else..... not like it matters if I'm going to replace then anyway but I am interested in what's on there know just for the sake of knowing what's on my Jeep.... if I post a picture are there any identifying characteristics? the boots are red, not sure if that narrows anything down
There is a ID number usually stamped in the shock body that might identify it. I recently put some Rancho RS5000X shocks on my jeep, and they stamp "RANCHO" in the bottom of the shock body. Not all shock makers do that though, but there still should be a part # stamped somewhere.
reviving this old thread... is OME the only company that has heavy duty variants of their springs? I would assume I need a heavy variant bc I have an aftermarket bumper on the front + a 33" spare on the back AND planning on getting an aftermarket rear carrier... I just don't want to put on 2" springs and have them droop to 1.5-1.75" from the second I put them on.....
I also want to put on .5" isolators so I can net 3.75" w my 1.25" body lift. not that that matters necessarily but I figured I'd get some people thinking im going down the wrong path from the beginning only trying to get 2.5" of lift w 33" tires lol
I also want to put on .5" isolators so I can net 3.75" w my 1.25" body lift. not that that matters necessarily but I figured I'd get some people thinking im going down the wrong path from the beginning only trying to get 2.5" of lift w 33" tires lol
That’s basically my setup, but with 1.125” spacer in the front (2” OME HD, 1.25” BL, 1.125” spacers in front = 3.75” total)
What your looking for for HD is spring rates similar to OME. Yes, they’re out there.
I have a 1” Motor Mount Lift to avoid vibes. Around 2.5” of suspension lift you start to get vibes. A body lift does not affect driveline. The best thing to fix vibes is an SYE and DCDS. The next best thing is a MML. The last solution is a TCase drop
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I know that not all rigs are predictable down to an exact number, but is it a pretty safe bet that staying between 2.5"-3", I'll only need a mml to sort out vibes? I just don't see myself needing anything over ~3" of suspension lift and feel like I'm getting into a region of diminishing returns if I'm gonna need an sye/dcds
REALLY all I'm trying to do is get rid of my budget boost on stock springs & create enough clearance for 33" tires.... so anywhere between 3-4" net lift (including the 1.25" bl that will be going on very soon) will be fine
Yes, a pretty safe bet. Sometimes I think there are speeds at steep inclines where I get vibes. But it’s so minor I’m not sure. My build goal is pretty much identical to yours, trying to avoid SYE and DC for now and run 33’s. I have been successful with my setup. See my profile for everything I’ve done to achieve this. There are a few more small things you’ll likely need
Ok, when you do a suspension lift at 2.5” or more, you’re rear sway bar raises too. This causes the sway bar links to be too short and often rub on your brake lines. So some longer rear sway bar links would correct that. I used the Rubicon Express 1155. They are marketed for a larger lift, like 3.5+”, but we doing that the Teraflex that advertised for 2-3” were actually longer eye to eye than the RE. So the bottom line is they work great, and the sway bar is about level with the 2.5” lift. Other than that, you’ve probably already figured some front sway bar links, quick discos like the JKS or Currie Anti-Rock, since the front stock links are too short too.
I like your build plan. You probably already know, but do the body lift and motor mount lift together, in that order. I think your plan keeps your options open for any future upgrades you may decide, so it’s really smart. I’m looking forward to seeing it grow!
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Alright so trying to keep the spending spaced out, I think this is my overall plan:
I already have a savvy body lift waiting to be installed, so I may get impatient and put that on OR wait until I can get a motor mount lift to pair with that. Either way, that's 1.25" lifted.
Next, gonna get rid of my budget boost and replace it with full length Pro Comp (most likely, haven't decided yet) 2" coils. That's 3.25" net lift.
Then, I'll decide how big of spacers I need to add lift & address rake.... like I said before, probably somewhere between .5" & 1". this is when I'll change out the sway bar links in the back and add the longer, quick disconnect links in the front.
am I missing anything? that should net 4.25" or so of lift, while only changing the suspension geometry 3" or so, which will keep things much less expensive, much more simple, and as close to stock as I can be w 33s.
from there, I will probably dump some money into tube fenders but that is tbd... I just want to get my suspension right before I worry about the looks department (although tube fenders do add some flex room)
I guess when I start doing stuff I should create a build thread to keep everything in one place
That will work. You probably know, but it's better to do the BL and MML the same day/weekend, so you don't have to move the fan shroud. If you do get antsy, and go ahead with the BL, you move the shroud down 1". The easiest way is to cut slits above where the four fan shroud screws are and slide it down. While you install the BL, just have it loose. To loose it you have to remove the coolant reservoir to reach the bolts on the driver's side. This is easy to do, just pops out. No need to disconnect the hose, just move it out of the way.
The MML is pretty cheap. I think Brown Dog is $115, or, if you aren't doing any hardcore wheelin' and your stock motor mounts are in good condition, you can buy some 1" spacers for about $79. I think Savvy or Currie makes some, if you like top brands. These spacers are easier to install. As @JamesAndTheSahara mentioned elsewhere yesterday, the MML or spacers will also give you more clearance under your oil pan and set you up for a near flat skid in the future (if you ever wanted to go that route). So this is what I mean by a smart build. It keeps your options open.
I'm not sure what you're doing about centering your axles after your lift. The front trackbar will shift the axle to the driver's side and the rear trackbar will shift the rear axle to the passenger side. So usually you need an adjustable trackbar in the front (though some would say just wait and see) and either a relocation bracket in the rear or an adjustable trackbar there too. That one is Jeep dependent and something of an unknown, though geometry-wise, the axles will shift due to a suspension lift. Whether that amount is significant or not is an unknown on your Jeep till you lift it. Otherwise, everything else in your plan looks good. Well thought out! Good work.
EDIT: Oh, did we address shocks? You'll need longer shocks with those ProComp springs
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