Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

[Yeti08]

I bought the ARB rockers before Savvy was available. I'll be pulling them to install Savvy rockers. They don't hold up well to actually being used.

wow, thanks for the pics in your reply, that shows some real world usage. honestly Im attempting to balance usage with cost( isnt everybody) as much as I would love the savvy ones, I don't know if the jeep would ever see that type of use. but your pictures do make me reconsider purchasing the ARB sliders

 

[Zorba]

Anybody have or know anything about the Next Venture product? Their website has exactly one picture that doesn't show very much, so I sent them an email. I don't have a horse in this race, but as I like their rear bumper tie-in brace and they're not mentioned here, I figured I'd bring them up.

 

[sourbluff]

Anybody have or know anything about the Next Venture product? Their website has exactly one picture that doesn't show very much, so I sent them an email. I don't have a horse in this race, but as I like their rear bumper tie-in brace and they're not mentioned here, I figured I'd bring them up.

Like their rear bumper and have the frame tie in (different bumper) but looks like the might not be the best. Doesn’t appear that they go wheel opening to wheel opening and mount to body mounts.

 

[JMT]

They offer 3/16” and 1/4”. You can add DOM tubing. They are not ww2ww and a reviewer says they tie into the body mounts, so I’d say, “no.”

 

[Zorba]

They offer 3/16” and 1/4”. You can add DOM tubing. They are not ww2ww and a reviewer says they tie into the body mounts, so I’d say, “no.”

Unfortunate - but not unexpected given their price point.

 

[mrblaine]

I bought the ARB rockers before Savvy was available. I'll be pulling them to install Savvy rockers. They don't hold up well to actually being used. View attachment 291110View attachment 291111View attachment 291112View attachment 291113

In places like JV, those dents in the tubes will get you hung up on stuff you need to slide them over to make it up an obstacle. I saw lots of tubes like that in JV which is why the Savvy versions don't have tubes and the part that can get damaged like that is replaceable.

 

[mrblaine]

They offer 3/16” and 1/4”. You can add DOM tubing. They are not ww2ww and a reviewer says they tie into the body mounts, so I’d say, “no.”

The smartest gent to build tube rails was the guy who used schedule 80 gas pipe. Cheaper, stronger, far harder to dent. He had to have custom dies made for the tubing bender, but they were certainly a lot tougher than DOM.

If I were forced to supply a tube rail, it would be 1.5" .120 wall DOM and I'd stick a piece of 1.25" 6061 T6 round bar inside it. You won't dent that but you won't like the price either.

 

[JMT]

If I were forced to supply a tube rail, it would be 1.5" .120 wall DOM and I'd stick a piece of 1.25" 6061 T6 round bar inside it. You won't dent that but you won't like the price either.

Key word is "forced."

 

[mrblaine]

Key word is "forced."

Sometimes the market demands something that is not in agreement with a particular design philosophy. It may not be in the best interests of the company to ignore that so if you can't, then design it correctly.

That was the situation with the Savvy unbendable tie rod for the Currie steering. I agree with John's philosophy of heat treating his to a level that would allow it to bend, not easily, but also not damage upstream components.

The problem is everyone kept getting on the forums and bitching about the Currie tie rod failing because they bent it. We explained it over and over that if they drove it home, that wasn't a failure, just straighten it back out and go have fun. No matter, they kept bitching and slamming Currie.

Fine, you want one that is unbendable? Here, have some heated treated 4340 and do NOT call me when you break something upstream.

 

[Mike_H]

Sometimes the market demands something that is not in agreement with a particular design philosophy. It may not be in the best interests of the company to ignore that so if you can't, then design it correctly.

That was the situation with the Savvy unbendable tie rod for the Currie steering. I agree with John's philosophy of heat treating his to a level that would allow it to bend, not easily, but also not damage upstream components.

The problem is everyone kept getting on the forums and bitching about the Currie tie rod failing because they bent it. We explained it over and over that if they drove it home, that wasn't a failure, just straighten it back out and go have fun. No matter, they kept bitching and slamming Currie.

Fine, you want one that is unbendable? Here, have some heated treated 4340 and do NOT call me when you break something upstream.

I think there is a certain segment of wheelers that WANT things to break...its like a badge of Honor or something stupid like that. They get to brag about how they broke x, y, or z part. Plus, if it breaks, its an excuse to "upgrade."

If it bends, and you can just bend it back...where is the fun in that. If you didn't break stuff, you must not be XTREME!

 

[Moglocker]

The smartest gent to build tube rails was the guy who used schedule 80 gas pipe. Cheaper, stronger, far harder to dent. He had to have custom dies made for the tubing bender, but they were certainly a lot tougher than DOM.

If I were forced to supply a tube rail, it would be 1.5" .120 wall DOM and I'd stick a piece of 1.25" 6061 T6 round bar inside it. You won't dent that but you won't like the price either.

Yep we will be heading west shortly when I retire( hope weather is better for my asthma)when the arbs get bent,I’ll surly be going with a set of savvy’s

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Yep we will be heading west shortly when I retire( hope weather is better for my asthma)when the arbs get bent,I’ll surly be going with a set of savvy’s

Good decision on the sliders but stay east of the California border lol.

 

[nathanotis]

The factory Rubicon sliders are highly effective at protecting from those nasty dings caused by shopping carts.

While I'd certainly not recommend someone stick with the stock rocker protection over some of the better options being discussed here, I can tell you that the stock rockers on my 1st TJ took a couple teeth-rattling hits when I slipped off a rock or two. I never saw any deflection or damage to the tub.

That said, I replaced them with a DIY set of heavy 3/16 steel when I had the chance.

 

[Zorba]

What kind of sliders/protection would be recommended for a non-rock crawler/trail jeep/overlander? Something to protect against hard ground, tree stumps and the like being accidentally encountered. I'm thinking more "high centered on the side" rather than "hitting rocks at speed".

 

[JMT]

What kind of sliders/protection would be recommended for a non-rock crawler/trail jeep/overlander? Something to protect against hard ground, tree stumps and the like being accidentally encountered. I'm thinking more "high centered on the side" rather than "hitting rocks at speed".

One of the Function over Form sliders in the first post. It’s really no change in recommendation. Tub mounted, ww2ww, preferably with a rounded or angled side where the slider goes under the tub edge.

People who rock crawl don’t hit rocks with speed, if you mean high speed. It’s usually very slow.

 

[jjvw]

What kind of sliders/protection would be recommended for a non-rock crawler/trail jeep/overlander? Something to protect against hard ground, tree stumps and the like being accidentally encountered. I'm thinking more "high centered on the side" rather than "hitting rocks at speed".

Anything that doesn't attach to the frame or to the body mounts.

High centered on the side sounds a lot like rock crawling, fwiw.

 

[mrblaine]

What kind of sliders/protection would be recommended for a non-rock crawler/trail jeep/overlander? Something to protect against hard ground, tree stumps and the like being accidentally encountered. I'm thinking more "high centered on the side" rather than "hitting rocks at speed".

We don't hit rocks at speed generally. Once in a while you'll land with more force developed by dropping further than you intended which brings the speed up along with multiplying the force but mostly it is all brute force at very slow speed. You need to turn, big rock in the way, put the slider against it and get after it.

 

[Zorba]

We don't hit rocks at speed generally. Once in a while you'll land with more force developed by dropping further than you intended which brings the speed up along with multiplying the force but mostly it is all brute force at very slow speed. You need to turn, big rock in the way, put the slider against it and get after it.

I understand - and appreciate - your clarification.

But I'm still asking the question and would value your opinion especially.

 

[mrblaine]

I understand - and appreciate - your clarification.

But I'm still asking the question and would value your opinion especially.

Anything that doesn't mount to the body mounts or frame. Wheel well to wheel well is preferred because the area not covered under the flares is still just sheet metal and bends just as easy as the area under the doors. If I had to give up ww2ww to get something more affordable, that wouldn't be the end of the world.

 

[Zorba]

Anything that doesn't mount to the body mounts or frame. Wheel well to wheel well is preferred because the area not covered under the flares is still just sheet metal and bends just as easy as the area under the doors. If I had to give up ww2ww to get something more affordable, that wouldn't be the end of the world.

Thank you sir! That's pretty much my own conclusion.