Dumb question… did they come with install directions? I’m wondering if they come with nutserts for the front two bolts or if they say to drill all way through the floor
Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
Dumb question… did they come with install directions? I’m wondering if they come with nutserts for the front two bolts or if they say to drill all way through the floor
OP
Either way you’d use nutserts. Follow principles from mrblaines way of preloading the slider to the tub.
For the people that plan on using their sliders regularly, is spray paint the best route due to ability to touch it up quickly/cheaply?
Has anyone used clear spray paint? I want to go for that bare metal but not rusting look (like aluminum but slider isn’t aluminum)
Has anyone used clear spray paint? I want to go for that bare metal but not rusting look (like aluminum but slider isn’t aluminum)
OP
Yes. DIY so you can touch up.
Usually you want to self etch prime metals before you paint them. This gives your base-coat something to hold on to. You could self etch prime them and paint them a silver aluminum color to get that look.
One thing that happens over time is you gouge the steel on rocks. Colors don’t look very good with gouges, so most people go with black. It hides better.
I’d say paint as well except if you drive in a snowy place like i do often. Daily driving in idaho winters results in a lot of rock chips or salt where the paint on the bottom sides never hold up even one winter. I have to repaint them every spring and now being the 3rd time fully sanding them down and repainting with primer and many layers of black on top I now decided to powder coated them at my college campus for cost of just the powder and man has the little rust before made such bad texture that even some spots the powdercoat didn’t Fully cover bc the texture had gotten so bad and now has little spots of bare metal I’ll have to cover with paint anyways. Not to mention they’re a trash mounting design and not ww2ww, they just there till I can afford something better.
OP
I haven’t had any trouble over in E Washington. Of course, I put these on in 2017 and painted them with 2K in a paint shop. Since then they’ve been scraped and gouged. I just touch them up periodicaly. They do rust where there are scrapes and gouges, but it’s always surface and I’m able to just grind it off and re-coat.
Maybe not true in your case, but if someone is painting their sliders, make sure and do it right. I’ve got a long HVLP procedure for factory quality paint job, or you can do something simpler for the sliders that should hold up well.
Clean/ Degrease
Sand to 400 grit
Clean/Degrease
Self etch prime 2-3 coats following directions on can
Basecoat 3 coats following directions on can
Clearcoat optional, but 2-3 coats is helpful. (1K for ok, 2K for better)
Sounds like that’s the route. So far my primer and standard black rustolium paint job hasn’t held up like I wish but I also have a history with my paint not holding up on my fenders so I might just suck at painting.
My bumpers are powder coated as well and have not had any issue touching up with a matching paint so far but it’s too early for me to say from that small experience if it’s the best route. It does hold up to the road rocks and salt very well but I was fortunate enough to have a very cheap cost to powdercoat rather than 100-200 charges from a place to do so. So basically 2k paint is the best route and what I’d probably do if I didn’t have access to powdercoat at my cost.
Had anyone ever tried a spray on zinc primer?
I have the Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Cold Galvanizing Compound primer but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.
I have the Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Cold Galvanizing Compound primer but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.
OP
I have not. Zinc is usually a component in weld through primers that are designed to prohibit rust, so I can see that working until you scrape it off on a rock.
My understanding is that 1k is a “single component” paint that can be sprayed on by itself, whereas 2k is a “two component” paint that requires an activator of sorts to work.
OP
Basically, what PNW_LJ said is correct. The numbers are referring to a hardness scale. The 2 K has an activator, which is a chemical that reacts with the paint to cause it to reach the 2K hardness mark. As you know, once mixed, it has a pot life of 4-8 hrs. After that the reaction neutralizes and the paint is no good.
2 K holds up better, until you scrape a rock. Then all bets are off. I’d use it for body panels. Winch restorations, bumpers and sliders are good with either 1K or 2K. 2K is always better in my opinion, but not always worth it if you’re just going to be beating on them.
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Wanted to check to see if anyone has seen any good sales on sliders before I go with the Cavfab
I saw some good deals on rock hard through quadratec but with the limited under tub protection, it’s not what I’m looking for
I saw some good deals on rock hard through quadratec but with the limited under tub protection, it’s not what I’m looking for
OP
Are you going to order yet?
The struggle in real!
I’m really dragging my feet on this jeep mod. I flip flop between which one I want daily. If savvy was available I’d just buy that and call it a day. Hard to fork out $700+ on JCRs or Genright when I then have to modify them
The struggle in real!
I’m really dragging my feet on this jeep mod. I flip flop between which one I want daily. If savvy was available I’d just buy that and call it a day. Hard to fork out $700+ on JCRs or Genright when I then have to modify them
Be the hero.. be the guinea pig!
I say that, but I’m in the exact same situation as you, and am holding out.
Good luck! I tried for over a year for a set for my LJ....I gave up! I even emailed a couple times with no response.