This has been on my to do list since I helped josh with his. Maybe this winter I will get to it, assuming my cracking manifolds are no longer an issue!
OP
OP
There’s just enough room to check out clearance. The front is limited by the arch crossmember, as expected. The rear has about 3/4” shy until it contacts the tub. That pretty much answers the idea of gaining much more in the GTS.
I could probably slot the skid bolts vertically and rely on clamping force but with the way I’ve been coming down on things back there, I’ll work on that issue before addressing anything like the bolt tension.
I could probably slot the skid bolts vertically and rely on clamping force but with the way I’ve been coming down on things back there, I’ll work on that issue before addressing anything like the bolt tension.
Just watched this on BFH Garage on YouTube.
Great stuff!
OP
Finally permanently mounted my license plate. I threaded the aluminum for m6 screws. The light isn’t hooked up yet since I yanked the 3rd brake light wiring a while back, so I’ll have to do something there eventually. Hopefully the police just think it’s out for now 
OP
There's a few different places that make boxed in ones (Artec is another one), but I chose these since they don't hang down quite as much.
Thanks!
The strip of red at the tailgate top looks like a long brake light.
OP
OP
Since my corners arent savvy, here’s some notes on doing the passenger side (mostly relevant for the driver too):
1. I taped where I wanted the bolt centers to go on the rail itself to mark the bolt location, leaving a little play in the slot since I’m not as precise as I wish I was.
2. Clamp the rail into place to transfer those marks to your tub armor
3. Mark the distance down from there for the bolt center, for me that was 7/8”. Center punch it!
4. A few bolts of the rub rail interfered with the GenRight bolts for the armor, easy solution is to drop the armor end bolts!
5. If you got the GenRight backing plate, you’ll drop it. Here’s some steel scrap for your pile.
6. Use the long bolts on the sides, get them all aligned in the rail and be sure to square up the carriage heads if the room allows
7. Use the shortest carriage bolt for the rear - this allows you to get all bolts along the side to get into the slots before worrying about the backside bolt.
8. You’ll probably need to spin bolts for them to sit in the slot right, but that’s easy.
9. Trim the passenger side more than planned if you run an exogate.
OP
Time to drop the Amazon special fair lead that’s all faded for a nicer one. I really need to repaint that winch…
OP
These wheels suck, getting beadlocks by next season. I’ve lost a bead 1/2 the outings on these.
OP
In this week’s episode of Driving By Braille, we feature Matt:
Bumper and steering skid doing what we expect:
I got contact on the tie rod, drag link, and axle tube. The first two didn’t bend (at least noticeably). That’s somewhat thanks to the tie rod flip.
These aren’t pretty, but they did things.
More pumpkin contact, some of it pretty hard. The Ram covers are doing well (but I may have a replacement for the front inbound…)
After getting stuck on something I’ll complain about in a minute, we heard a pop while running line… turns out it was the clip on my recent front DS replacement. Also visible on the engine skid.
Frame rails and TC skid
These wheel’s suck, so they’re going sway ASAP. This isn’t evidence of them sucking, just getting rocks in
Rear diff I got stuck on
Now for those that hung in there, I’m going to comment on GenRight’s design for the mini boat sides.
The boat side bit is great, these pictures show that I’m using the gains. However the bar/step/whatever shows how there’s a rather large interference. Noticeably throughout the day it caused more harm than good on a number of occasions. I can say I intentionally used them. Few times to pivot a bit, but those marks are higher up mostly.
I think something is necessary, so it’s not all bad. However it’s mounted much too low and bulky. I have some thinking to do on what I want there. I think it may be a combination of higher and tighter that compliments the line the boat side allows for. As long as nothing else is hang-upable there but slidable would be good. Or maybe nothing and consider the slider a wear item over the long run?
Bumper and steering skid doing what we expect:
I got contact on the tie rod, drag link, and axle tube. The first two didn’t bend (at least noticeably). That’s somewhat thanks to the tie rod flip.
These aren’t pretty, but they did things.
More pumpkin contact, some of it pretty hard. The Ram covers are doing well (but I may have a replacement for the front inbound…)
After getting stuck on something I’ll complain about in a minute, we heard a pop while running line… turns out it was the clip on my recent front DS replacement. Also visible on the engine skid.
Frame rails and TC skid
These wheel’s suck, so they’re going sway ASAP. This isn’t evidence of them sucking, just getting rocks in
Rear diff I got stuck on
Now for those that hung in there, I’m going to comment on GenRight’s design for the mini boat sides.
The boat side bit is great, these pictures show that I’m using the gains. However the bar/step/whatever shows how there’s a rather large interference. Noticeably throughout the day it caused more harm than good on a number of occasions. I can say I intentionally used them. Few times to pivot a bit, but those marks are higher up mostly.
I think something is necessary, so it’s not all bad. However it’s mounted much too low and bulky. I have some thinking to do on what I want there. I think it may be a combination of higher and tighter that compliments the line the boat side allows for. As long as nothing else is hang-upable there but slidable would be good. Or maybe nothing and consider the slider a wear item over the long run?
for those of you that can still externally balance your wheels those coyote inner bead locks might be an alternative to expensive bead locked rims. almost can't believe someone's not runnin um yet.
or is there any value to a narrower rim to create more side wall bulge and help protect the rim? or it all gets gets mashed out of the way not matter what?
beat it up, thats why you made it .
or is there any value to a narrower rim to create more side wall bulge and help protect the rim? or it all gets gets mashed out of the way not matter what?
beat it up, thats why you made it .
It was nice to see the boatside doing what it is supposed to do. You were able to sink further into the rocks and keep wheels on the ground that much more.
Those steps only get in the way. I don't understand why so many think they are a good idea. Get a higher and tighter rub rail below the door sill and you can still do the pivoting thing while still having the Jeep not get in the way of itself.
Those steps only get in the way. I don't understand why so many think they are a good idea. Get a higher and tighter rub rail below the door sill and you can still do the pivoting thing while still having the Jeep not get in the way of itself.
OP
I have so many issues with discount tire already I can only imagine them asking about the two valves and doing something dumb. I have no doubt those are absolutely great, but it seems like it much more than I want to have to maintain. I’m still mulling on it though.
OP
I agree, I need to look at the sliders a bit today, but I am thinking a stainless rail like the rub rails or something along that line. I wish the backer portion, for lack of a better term, went all the way to the door.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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OP
They are. They’re the 7069 series, and they can’t hold a bead worth a damn.