nobody wants to mess with my homebrew beadlocks i wonder if that gizmo might offer me something.
OP
I’ll update as I do more tires this week. I’m hopeful but not sure I’m clear yet
OP
I only had a little time to work tonight, so I focused on the most exposed mount (there’s a picture not too long ago in the thread about this).
Finally I broke out a new grinder that is 1000x better than the harbor freight one I’ve been using.
Anyway, time to hide the center 3 pucks off the body lift. This welder is great, hopefully someday I’ll be doing it more justice.
Finally I broke out a new grinder that is 1000x better than the harbor freight one I’ve been using.
Anyway, time to hide the center 3 pucks off the body lift. This welder is great, hopefully someday I’ll be doing it more justice.
OP
That middle one sticks out like a sore thumb. Like others that have done this mod, I need to do a bit of work to the savvy crossmember. That will have to be later this week.
How self-conscious do you feel knowing that one mount is still there?
JJ - As one fellow OCDer to another, you and I both know that was rhetorical…How self-conscious do you feel knowing that one mount is still there?
OP
Aesthetically quite a bit! Fortunately it's unlikely to get hit in the parking lot over the next few weeksHow self-conscious do you feel knowing that one mount is still there?
OP
I'm using these:
https://genright.com/products/body-mount-lift-kit-tj-lj.html
For the crossmember, I mostly plan to follow this - it seems like JJVW and Toximus did most the thinking for me:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-hidden-body-lift.33605/#post-546479
You'll definitely put them to the test if you are able to make trough and sidewinder. I beat the shit out of mine on the very first obstacle.
OP
Unfortunately that's my son's last T-Ball game, so I will be out
Order a set and come over, let's fix that problem!
Unfortunately that's my son's last T-Ball game, so I will be out
Order a set and come over, let's fix that problem!
I plan on taking advantage since you are much closer
I need to get my torque box fixed before hand though.
OP
The BFH Garage is much better, I would go there 9.5/10 times. Other than that Mike guy that works there
OP
i gave up trying to bubble balance my other front tire for now and swapped the 16” rotor for a 15”, I need more time on them but the control is close enough (I think) I’m fine with. Either that or I really want it to be acceptable. Wheeling tomorrow will tell me.
The dust shield gets in the way for this, either cut/grind it down on the bottom or loosen the hub to shift it ( or both).
The dust shield gets in the way for this, either cut/grind it down on the bottom or loosen the hub to shift it ( or both).
OP
OP
OP
On the right side I just cut the bolt section off and welded that to the frame (welding over head sucks). The left side I had a slightly larger gap, so I used the vertical part of the inner C, cut that to length, and drilled new holes. I wasn't sure if I need a vertical gusset or not, but figured since I don't run around without the skid on very often and the added support of the skid being bolted to the frame - that weld being fairly thick should be enough.
dam. you shoulda got that welder months ago, seems like that's all that was holdin you back.
overhead takes commitment. turn the power and wire down just a hair and commit to running it like any other bead. if you get hesitant is gonna gob up quick on yah and drop hot dingle berries at ya, or not get good penetration.
you can wash side to side a hair on vert down to help eat wire and spread your root.......you can also do the same overhead if it helps, 1/16" up and down zig zag ensuring your contact touches both parts/pieces.
overhead takes commitment. turn the power and wire down just a hair and commit to running it like any other bead. if you get hesitant is gonna gob up quick on yah and drop hot dingle berries at ya, or not get good penetration.
you can wash side to side a hair on vert down to help eat wire and spread your root.......you can also do the same overhead if it helps, 1/16" up and down zig zag ensuring your contact touches both parts/pieces.