Rust proofing the inside of the frame?

Kenneth G Zinis said:
What are thoughts on Woolwax for frame interiors and visible underside parts, experience?
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I read up on Woolwax vs FF, seems like FF is more readily available & easier to spray. FF is available at Lowe's & Home Depot, I started buying it in bulk off Amazon, I can pour it in one of my pressure sprayers with the nozzle removed to get to some hard to reach areas. From what I've read Woolwax is a little thicker.
 
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Johnfromphilly said:
Do you clean it in between treatments or just throw on another coat? It seems to attract dirt and I was wondering if people clean in between.

Also, What "process" do you use for the underside? Do you just spray it everywhere or do you hit individual spots?
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I don't clean in between. There is a small buildup of dirt but I don't daily it in the summer so it stays pretty fresh. I get it everywhere I possibly can. I do try my best to avoid rubber, plastic, and the brakes. The first time I did it I pulled the rear wheel liners and thoroughly soaked that area.
 
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Johnfromphilly said:
I plan on attacking this project once we get some warmer weather on a weekend. My frame has zero rust inside or out but it now will live in Southeastern PA and, although it will spend most of the time in the garage, I do want to take it down the shore. No garage there and salt water and air are a block away.

My plan is to blow out the frame with an air compressor (checking along the way with bore hole camera), add small drain holes to the frame and spray the inside with Fluid Film. I also plan on hitting some other areas with FF including the outside of the frame and other underside areas as I can reach them without a lift. I also plan to drop my transmission skid plate and clean and paint the area where it mates with the frame with frame paint. Adding anti seize to those bolts also.

Anyone have a comment on this plan?
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I added washers between the skid and the frame for a small gap to reduce rust.
 
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Once last question for those who have used FF for inside the frame and also under the Jeep coverage. How much should I buy for the first time? I plan on using the aerosol cans vs the compressor and large paint can. How many cans should I expect to use?
 
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Johnfromphilly said:
Why did you choose that over other prodcuts? Specifically Fluid Film? I am just interested as most research points to fluid film for protecting from rust. Do you have a current rust problem you ar fixing first?
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I have no rust (well very, very little) on my 05 and want to keep it that way. It's in spray cans and super easy to apply. didnt want to go through the mess of FF. The interweb has so much info with positive and negative on virtually every product. Ill try this, since I like Amsoil products, and see how it works...
 
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mastergunnera8 said:
I have no rust (well very, very little) on my 05 and want to keep it that way. It's in spray cans and super easy to apply. didnt want to go through the mess of FF. The interweb has so much info with positive and negative on virtually every product. Ill try this, since I like Amsoil products, and see how it works...
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Cool, good luck, interested to see how it goes on and the results. Thanks for the reply.
 
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qslim said:
Sounds solid. I spray fluid film everywhere. I figure its not going to hurt anything under there, so I go to town. If you get some on the exhaust you get to bathe in that sweet sweet smell even more.

Good plan with the skid plate bolts too. I just had it off for an SYE and 3/6 were toast. I had to cut them off & then replace the nutserts. I ended up doing them all with a kit from BMB, it wasn't terrible but something would be nice to avoid.
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All of my bolts are badly stripped, and one is even missing. They were replaced with cheap ones when the p/o did a skid plate drop, and the drop bracket is rusted badly and spreading to my frame too. How were you able to cut them off? I was thinking about taking a cutoff wheel through my skid plate bracket to get to the bolts and hopefully twisting them out with vice grips. I had no luck with a bolt extractor, and after snapping one inside my tailgate hinge bolts I want to stay away from those for good

Also, I snapped off the stud on one of the 4 bolts connecting the transfer case to the skid in the middle. Is this a problem, or can I just leave it?
 
Cheetokps said:
All of my bolts are badly stripped, and one is even missing. They were replaced with cheap ones when the p/o did a skid plate drop, and the drop bracket is rusted badly and spreading to my frame too. How were you able to cut them off? I was thinking about taking a cutoff wheel through my skid plate bracket to get to the bolts and hopefully twisting them out with vice grips. I had no luck with a bolt extractor, and after snapping one inside my tailgate hinge bolts I want to stay away from those for good

Also, I snapped off the stud on one of the 4 bolts connecting the transfer case to the skid in the middle. Is this a problem, or can I just leave it?
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I just put a cutoff wheel on my electric angle grinder & cut the heads off. The shape of the skidplate makes it a little tricky but it can be done.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...aid-i-need-this-stuff-build.45882/post-803877
My spacers were actually rusted to the bolts themselves, so once I cut the heads off I had to beat them with a hammer to actually get the TC to drop.

If I were you I'd order a set of new nutserts from Blaine's site & replace them all. It's not the easiest thing but also not the worst. And air chisel helps. There's a link on his page here to a BFH video that explains how to do it, took me about half a day to replace them.

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...ep-YJ-97-02-Jeep-TJ-and-03-06-Jeep-TJ_c79.htm
 
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mxz800 said:
I used three cans the first time. I bought a gallon of FF it was like peanut butter, it was hard to spray. I'm going back to using the cans with the long wand.
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The gallon does seem to be considerably thicker but that may just be due to the pressure in the spray cans, IDK.

Every fall I start out with the gallon which costs about the same as 6 of those those spray cans (about 1/2 gallon). I keep it in the house a day or two before I use it and put it near my kerosene heater once when it was really too cold outside. The first time I used the whole gallon because I sprayed everywhere. The last two years I used about 3/4 gallon each time. I do end up using 1-1/2 spray cans or so to get in between the upper fender panels and into any other "tight" grooves and seams I can find (hinges, fender flares, rock sliders, etc). I even blast some under the windshield molding because I've seen what can happen under there and I have no idea that the previous guy replacing my windshield didn't scrape any paint down to bare metal under there and crap like that happens way too often.
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
The gallon does seem to be considerably thicker but that may just be due to the pressure in the spray cans, IDK.

Every fall I start out with the gallon which costs about the same as 6 of those those spray cans (about 1/2 gallon). I keep it in the house a day or two before I use it and put it near my kerosene heater once when it was really too cold outside. The first time I used the whole gallon because I sprayed everywhere. The last two years I used about 3/4 gallon each time. I do end up using 1-1/2 spray cans or so to get in between the upper fender panels and into any other "tight" grooves and seams I can find (hinges, fender flares, rock sliders, etc). I even blast some under the windshield molding because I've seen what can happen under there and I have no idea that the previous guy replacing my windshield didn't scrape any paint down to bare metal under there and crap like that happens way too often.
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Yeah I warmed mine up too. Put it infront of a space heater for a little bit before I poured it in my bug sprayer. Sprayed about as well as the cans, plus the wand makes it easier to to apply.
 
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