Rust proofing the inside of the frame?

[mxz800]

Yeah I warmed mine up too. Put it infront of a space heater for a little bit before I poured it in my bug sprayer. Sprayed about as well as the cans, plus the wand makes it easier to to apply.

Not to long or trucks will be at your house.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

Not to long or trucks will be at your house.

I should have mentioned that my gallon can (maybe all of them) was made out of plastic. I did learn the hard way that it doesn't take much heat to melt it down. I was lucky enough that I saw mine melting from the top before it started to leak onto the kerosene heater. At least it was outside and a good 20 ft from my detached workshop.

 

[Ephry73]

I should have mentioned that my gallon can (maybe all of them) was made out of plastic. I did learn the hard way that it doesn't take much heat to melt it down. I was lucky enough that I saw mine melting from the top before it started to leak onto the kerosene heater. At least it was outside and a good 20 ft from my detached workshop.

Crazy enough, I have seen people boil beans in a plastic gallon!

 

[Mike_H]

The gallon does seem to be considerably thicker but that may just be due to the pressure in the spray cans, IDK.

Every fall I start out with the gallon which costs about the same as 6 of those those spray cans (about 1/2 gallon). I keep it in the house a day or two before I use it and put it near my kerosene heater once when it was really too cold outside. The first time I used the whole gallon because I sprayed everywhere. The last two years I used about 3/4 gallon each time. I do end up using 1-1/2 spray cans or so to get in between the upper fender panels and into any other "tight" grooves and seams I can find (hinges, fender flares, rock sliders, etc). I even blast some under the windshield molding because I've seen what can happen under there and I have no idea that the previous guy replacing my windshield didn't scrape any paint down to bare metal under there and crap like that happens way too often.

Yeah I warmed mine up too. Put it infront of a space heater for a little bit before I poured it in my bug sprayer. Sprayed about as well as the cans, plus the wand makes it easier to to apply.

I talked with Fluid film about this. I noticed how thick it was and asked what I could use to thin it a bit. In addition to a little bit of heat (putting it in boiling water helps heat it up without risk of catching it on fire) they said mix the shit out of it. I guess it seperates really badly. I still have an unused gallon, but I will be figuring it out soon enough. All the work I'm going through to replace my tub, I don't want to do this job again...

 

[Cheetokps]

I just put a cutoff wheel on my electric angle grinder & cut the heads off. The shape of the skidplate makes it a little tricky but it can be done.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...aid-i-need-this-stuff-build.45882/post-803877
My spacers were actually rusted to the bolts themselves, so once I cut the heads off I had to beat them with a hammer to actually get the TC to drop.

If I were you I'd order a set of new nutserts from Blaine's site & replace them all. It's not the easiest thing but also not the worst. And air chisel helps. There's a link on his page here to a BFH video that explains how to do it, took me about half a day to replace them.

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...ep-YJ-97-02-Jeep-TJ-and-03-06-Jeep-TJ_c79.htm

The factory bolts probably stick out more, but with mine I would be cutting into the skid plate if I did that so I’ll probably just cut through the bracket.


My nutserts seem fine, they aren’t spinning it’s just the heads of my bolts are all stripped. Might as well replace them all when I’m under there though, and definitely new bolts and getting rid of the skid drop (maybe a few washers instead)

I’m going to have to take care of the frame rust under there too, I’ll wire wheel it down
and spray sone rust preventative paint on it. Hoping it isn’t too bad


Edit: Looks pretty bad to me. Hoping this won’t need to be professionally repaired, I’ll check it out more when I get the skid off

 

[qslim]

The factory bolts probably stick out more, but with mine I would be cutting into the skid plate if I did that so I’ll probably just cut through the bracket.
View attachment 237506

My nutserts seem fine, they aren’t spinning it’s just the heads of my bolts are all stripped. Might as well replace them all when I’m under there though, and definitely new bolts and getting rid of the skid drop (maybe a few washers instead)

I’m going to have to take care of the frame rust under there too, I’ll wire wheel it down
and spray sone rust preventative paint on it. Hoping it isn’t too bad


Edit: Looks pretty bad to me. Hoping this won’t need to be professionally repaired, I’ll check it out more when I get the skid off
View attachment 237507

Oooof, yeah definitely better to have a single small spacer in there instead of that long bar.

 

[Cheetokps]

Oooof, yeah definitely better to have a single small spacer in there instead of that long bar.

Yeah, damn previous owners lol. I'm hoping it would be easy enough to cut through the bar to get to the bolts. Not even sure why there is a spacer on it, it only came with a 2" budget boost

 

[qslim]

Yeah, damn previous owners lol. I'm hoping it would be easy enough to cut through the bar to get to the bolts. Not even sure why there is a spacer on it, it only came with a 2" budget boost

When I cut my bolt heads off I neglected to mention that I also used a grinding wheel. I was able to get part of the bolt off with a normal cutting wheel, when I couldn't get the rest I put a grinding wheel on & ground down the rest.

 

[williambmac]

I used to be a dealer for POR15 and a good friend was the CEO of POR15. I wouldn't waste my time or money using it on anything but a show car or street rod, that is a garage queen.

POR is mainly just paint that has a lot more paint solids to it. that is why it is sooo smooth. The additional paint solids make it less porous and keep out the moisture but it needs a really good surface to adhear to. It will not adhere well to a smooth surface.

I don't care how well you prep the surface, POR will eventually start to peel.

I just don't think it's a good solution for our vehicles.

I used to have a customer with a 1976 Buick Lesabre, he used to spray the undercarriage of his car with used engine oil a couple of times a year. He drove it throught the NJ winters and parked it in a driveway, never a garage.

There was not a spec of rust underneath it.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

I used to have a customer with a 1976 Buick Lesabre, he used to spray the undercarriage of his car with used engine oil a couple of times a year. He drove it throught the NJ winters and parked it in a driveway, never a garage.

There was not a spec of rust underneath it.

Back in the day, that was a "Country Undercoat". You sprayed it with used oil and then drove down a dirt/dusty road. Mechanics hated working on it afterwards. LOL.

 

[Ephry73]

I used to be a dealer for POR15 and a good friend was the CEO of POR15. I wouldn't waste my time or money using it on anything but a show car or street rod, that is a garage queen.

POR is mainly just paint that has a lot more paint solids to it. that is why it is sooo smooth. The additional paint solids make it less porous and keep out the moisture but it needs a really good surface to adhear to. It will not adhere well to a smooth surface.

I don't care how well you prep the surface, POR will eventually start to peel.

I just don't think it's a good solution for our vehicles.

I used to have a customer with a 1976 Buick Lesabre, he used to spray the undercarriage of his car with used engine oil a couple of times a year. He drove it throught the NJ winters and parked it in a driveway, never a garage.

There was not a spec of rust underneath it.

Funny enough in the islands they used to offer a service at the gas stations on the coastal areas where they sprayed the undercarriage with hot water / used oil mix. The salt from the beach, and salt on the roads from the ocean spray that dried up on the would start rotting the unprotected vehicles. Regular sprays and upkeep helps a lot. In this case, this is a year round salt exposure, but the principle is the same.

 

[williambmac]

One other thing that used to work really well..... Ziebart.
I'm not sure if the formula is the same as it was 30-40 years ago, but it definitely kept the rust away.

Your vehicle would smell like crayola crayons for a while though.

 

[Mac]

I plan on attacking this project once we get some warmer weather on a weekend. My frame has zero rust inside or out but it now will live in Southeastern PA and, although it will spend most of the time in the garage, I do want to take it down the shore. No garage there and salt water and air are a block away.

My plan is to blow out the frame with an air compressor (checking along the way with bore hole camera), add small drain holes to the frame and spray the inside with Fluid Film. I also plan on hitting some other areas with FF including the outside of the frame and other underside areas as I can reach them without a lift. I also plan to drop my transmission skid plate and clean and paint the area where it mates with the frame with frame paint. Adding anti seize to those bolts also.

Anyone have a comment on this plan?

Sounds like a great plan! I was looking at the Eastwood application - but NOW I feel your plan may be best - I am in the Poconos and use my Jeep to plow snow in the Winter. Thanks.

 

[Johnfromphilly]

Sounds like a great plan! I was looking at the Eastwood application - but NOW I feel your plan may be best - I am in the Poconos and use my Jeep to plow snow in the Winter. Thanks.

I would also recommend checking the condition of your skid plate and frame prior to coating the frame. That was recommended to me as a “maintenance” item and I tackled the project last weekend. I found rust and that is with a frame that showed no outward signs. I feel like I was able to catch it before it got bad and spread.

Here is a thread on that project if you are interested, it was pretty easy and a one person project:
Thread 'Check your skid plate, it is probably rusty'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/check-your-skid-plate-it-is-probably-rusty.48765/

 

[never monday]

I used to have a customer with a 1976 Buick Lesabre, he used to spray the undercarriage of his car with used engine oil a couple of times a year. He drove it throught the NJ winters and parked it in a driveway, never a garage.

Hand rubbed give a better sheen to the frame

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

I used three cans the first time. I bought a gallon of FF it was like peanut butter, it was hard to spray. I'm going back to using the cans with the long wand.

What sprayer did you use? I have a FF sprayer, and it sprays the viscous material into a nice thin film. The FF sprayer looks like a regular undercoat spray gun.

 

[Mac]

I would also recommend checking the condition of your skid plate and frame prior to coating the frame. That was recommended to me as a “maintenance” item and I tackled the project last weekend. I found rust and that is with a frame that showed no outward signs. I feel like I was able to catch it before it got bad and spread.

Here is a thread on that project if you are interested, it was pretty easy and a one person project:
Thread 'Check your skid plate, it is probably rusty'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/check-your-skid-plate-it-is-probably-rusty.48765/

Thanks - I really Appreciate the info, thanks again.

 

[Mac]

I guess my point was more about he alignment of the transmission and transmission mount bolts after adding the washers to the frame rails. Does dropping the skidplate 1/4" impact the transmission or the alignment of the mount and it's bolts?

Can the same space 1/4 inch washers be added to the Trans Mount bots to ensure same space and not change alignment? I intend to do the frame RUST / skid plate dance when the weather warms up a bit more. My jeep is stock No Lift, but concern about alignment. What say you?

 

[TJ4Jim]

Can the same space 1/4 inch washers be added to the Trans Mount bots to ensure same space and not change alignment? I intend to do the frame RUST / skid plate dance when the weather warms up a bit more. My jeep is stock No Lift, but concern about alignment. What say you?

When you add thick 1/4" washers to the skid it lowers about an 1/8" due to the recess in the skid, adding a washer to the trans mount is fine but an 1/8" difference really has no impact.

 

[Mac]

When you add thick 1/4" washers to the skid it lowers about an 1/8" due to the recess in the skid, adding a washer to the trans mount is fine but an 1/8" difference really has no impact.

Will the added washer to the Trans Mount allow that bit more 1/4 inch between the trans and plate to help air/water flow and not give it a place to rust.... I know this area has some oil blow-by usually and is not prone to rust. Or is it not worth the effort in your opinion!