Your buddies over at ECGS have a break down on pricing. From memory, roughly the same.
Maybe I should give Chase a call one of these days and catch up.
Your buddies over at ECGS have a break down on pricing. From memory, roughly the same.
As frustrating as these types of threads can be, often times this is when a lot of helpful information comes out that others will appreciate.We are however, doing our best to break it down in smaller bits of information to digest and using shorter easier to understand sentences. (except for that one)
But, the best part of discussing stuff with anyone who has adopted a position is they will say anything to support that position and when it starts getting holes poked in it, then the name calling and insults start. Fun, but predictable.
You do understand that is shows you edited your insult out, right?From post 130: You run a Dana 35 or an 8.8? Geez. Stay on track.
As frustrating as these types of threads can be, often times this is when a lot of helpful information comes out that others will appreciate.
I’m asking you if you run/have run Dana 35 or 8.8 now.You do understand that is shows you edited your insult out, right?
My uncle runs a 14 bolt in his tj with 3/4 brakes, no other brake modifications and a Dana 60 front with stock 60 brakes. I’ve driven it on the street probably 100 miles total in my life and never locked up the rear axle ever. 2wd on the street. Running a 37”. It works better than stock.
Once again, your opinion and not factual
I said he has done no other brake modifications. Baffling.I suspect he has done a whole bunch of modifications to prevent rear lock up if they aren't locking up in 2wd because I get folks who bring me their rigs quite often to solve the same issue. So no, that isn't opinion, it's fact based on how often I've done it and what I know about brakes in a TJ and brakes in general.
Nice of you to fix your quote since you were being the quote police there for a bit.
I'd hope that others are not frustrated, I'm not and I enjoy them because you have to have all your ducks in a row to be relevant and staying in practice is not a bad thing.As frustrating as these types of threads can be, often times this is when a lot of helpful information comes out that others will appreciate.
I'm not. This is great. Keep doing what you are doing!I'd hope that others are not frustrated, I'm not and I enjoy them because you have to have all your ducks in a row to be relevant and staying in practice is not a bad thing.
Worthless post.I'm not. This is great. Keep doing what you are doing!
Worthless post.True Statement!!
Don't need to in order to have some amount of an informed opinion on either of those two.Worthless post.
Do you or have your run a Dana 35 or 8.8?
Do you/have you run a Dana 35 or 8.8.
Feelings hurt much?Blaine, I've been meaning to ask you, do you have a disc sander or belt sander that you'd recommend? Maybe I'm asking the wrong question; I'd like to be able to get more exact flat edges than I'm getting with an angle grinder with a flap wheel when dealing with brackets and thick stuff like 3/4".
I do not run an 8.8 because I believe it is a dumb option for a TJ. I do however have a lot of friends that have run them in YJ's. About 12-14 years ago, they were very popular to swap in and all my friends had the same complaint. They would bend the stock axles and wind up with wobbling flanges that would be less than fun to swap out due to them being a C-clip style axle.
They got together and we had a pretty good chat about the issue so I got in touch with my friends at Superior Axle and Gear and asked them if they wanted me to build them a well done perfectly designed C-clip eliminator that any one could do in their driveway with simple hand tools. They replied in the affirmative so I designed the Superior Super 88 C-clip eliminator using Ford 9" Set 20 bearings, a simple bolt on housing end to carry them and a set of high strength 4340 shafts form Foote Axle and Forge. Yukon copied it exactly except for the Made In USA part and they call it the Ultimate 8.8 kit (IIRC on the name) In other words, I am intimately familiar with the nuances of the Ford 8.8 and as such, am capable of holding my own in any discussion about them.
I have a Dana 35 in the 00., I have a RJ 60 in the 99, I have a TJ 44 in both 04's, and I have a Rubi 44 with the JK 44 gear set in it with an ARB in the 01.
A little as 2 years ago, we ran a Super 35 in a rear Dana 35 in my helpers TJ on 35's in Johnson Valley as a test and over the course of 20-30 trails, we didn't have a single issue with it.
You know, I don't unfortunately. I tried to and in fact did purchase a 6 x 60" belt grinder from Factory Authorized outlet. I did a lot of research and it seemed to be the best bang for the buck, well made, very flexible, both a belt grinder and straight line edge options at the same time, lots of horsepower, lots of surface feet per minute and designed for metal fabrication.Blaine, I've been meaning to ask you, do you have a disc sander or belt sander that you'd recommend? Maybe I'm asking the wrong question; I'd like to be able to get more exact flat edges than I'm getting with an angle grinder with a flap wheel when dealing with brackets and thick stuff like 3/4".
Feelings hurt much?
Sweet. That’s wild you help design the eliminator. How much width does the c clip eliminator add to the wms?
Why put the 8.8 gear in the rubi housing? I’ve read the tubes and inner c’s are the weak areas.
What size tires were bending the 8.8 stock shafts? I hate the idea of the c-clip design as well.