So you want to run 35" tires on your TJ?

I'm ordering a new set of 35's and was hoping to get advice on wheel width. I currently have 35's on 15x12.5in wheels and am going to go up to 17in. Should I stick with 12.5in width? What's most common for 17in?
Wheel or tire width? Wheel should be 17x8. Tire should be 35x12.5
 
Read the entire thread, good stuff that never gets old.

Part of it was the 20% higher strength of 4340 US vs. 4140 Revolution axles. I just received these:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...volution-gear-Dana 44-30-spline-rear-axle-kitso reviewed my order. They don't list a 4340 axle from Revolution but the 4140 is said to be US Made, which is what I have.
Thoughts?
 
Read the entire thread, good stuff that never gets old.

Part of it was the 20% higher strength of 4340 US vs. 4140 Revolution axles. I just received these:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...volution-gear-Dana 44-30-spline-rear-axle-kitso reviewed my order. They don't list a 4340 axle from Revolution but the 4140 is said to be US Made, which is what I have.
Thoughts?
4340 is the material for the front axles. 4140 is the material for the rear axles. Revolution offers USA made axles and also their Discovery series which is foreign made. I have the US made fronts and foreign made Discovery series rears only due to the fact that US made rears were not available at the time of my build.

This comes straight from Revolution Gear and Axle:
The major difference is that 4340 has more torsional allowance. 4140 is stronger under Load (which is what you want in the rear).
 
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Aha.. thanks for clarifying. Did not notice that on their website.

I've also read here that the USA made front axles have the bigger u-joints which are stronger than the Discovery but could make the weak point of the front axle as the R&P. Would rather bust an axle than a R&P. But I'm not hard-core either.
 
Aha.. thanks for clarifying. Did not notice that on their website.
This was another part of the response I got from them regarding rear axles and 4140:
There was a typo on the last Load sheet we had sent to people and it should be 4140.

I've also read here that the USA made front axles have the bigger u-joints which are stronger than the Discovery but could make the weak point of the front axle as the R&P. Would rather bust an axle than a R&P.
But I'm not hard-core either.
I don't think the probability of breaking a ring or pinion is very high. It may transfer the weak point to the driveshaft. Dunno. I'll leave that to the experts.
 
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I have a question about a 2000 TJ with 6" lift on 35's. The jeep wants to wander at lower speeds and gets more stable around 55mph. What could be causing this? I've checked all of the front and rear components and everything is right.
 
I have a question about a 2000 TJ with 6" lift on 35's. The jeep wants to wander at lower speeds and gets more stable around 55mph. What could be causing this? I've checked all of the front and rear components and everything is right.
Post a picture of the entire steering setup and we’ll tell you how much stuff is wrong.
 
I am in the process of swapping my front and rear Dana 30/35 axles with Dana 44 axles from a 2006 TJ Rubicon, but was wondering if I can keep the stock gear 4.10 ratio? My Jeep TJ currently has 35-inch Tires with a 4" inch lift and it has a 4.0L with manual six-speed transmission. Also, do I need an SYE kit installed? Thanks!
 
I am in the process of swapping my front and rear Dana 30/35 axles with Dana 44 axles from a 2006 TJ Rubicon, but was wondering if I can keep the stock gear 4.10 ratio? My Jeep TJ currently has 35-inch Tires with a 4" inch lift and it has a 4.0L with manual six-speed transmission. Also, do I need an SYE kit installed? Thanks!
You can keep 4.10 gears, but they won't be ideal. With 35's, the 4.0L and 6-speed will be much better with 488 or 513 gears, but running 4.10's won't hurt anything except your gas mileage. (I have 456's with the same setup and wish I had 488's)

Since you have a 231 TCase and slip yoke you will need a SYE with 4" of lift to correct the driveline angles. You will also need rear upper and lower Control Arms to aim the rear pinion directly at the output yoke on the TCase. You will also need a rear DC driveshaft.
 
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You can keep 4.10 gears, but they won't be ideal. With 35's, the 4.0L and 6-speed will be much better with 488 or 513 gears, but running 4.10's won't hurt anything except your gas mileage. (I have 456's with the same setup and wish I had 488's)

Since you have a 231 TCase and slip yoke you will need a SYE with 4" of lift to correct the driveline angles. You will also need rear upper and lower Control Arms to aim the rear pinion directly at the output yoke on the TCase. You will also need a rear DC driveshaft.
Thanks, JMT.

I will go ahead with 4.88 gear ratio. I found a mechanic in my area who specializes in jeep work, but he is asking $2100 for the front/rear re-gearing to 4.88, includes parts(Yukon) and Labor. He is also going to swap my Dana 30/35 axles to Rubi Dana 44 axles and asking around $300 per axle for the labor. SYE install for another $180-$270.

Am I getting a fair deal for this work?
 
Thanks, JMT.

I will go ahead with 4.88 gear ratio. I found a mechanic in my area who specializes in jeep work, but he is asking $2100 for the front/rear re-gearing to 4.88, includes parts(Yukon) and Labor. He is also going to swap my Dana 30/35 axles to Rubi Dana 44 axles and asking around $300 per axle for the labor. SYE install for another $180-$270.

Am I getting a fair deal for this work?
So, let me get this straight. You’ll have Dana 44/Dana 44 with Stock Lockers and 4.88 gears with an SYE install for

$2100 + 600 + ($180-270) = $2880-2970?
 
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Thanks, JMT.

I will go ahead with 4.88 gear ratio. I found a mechanic in my area who specializes in jeep work, but he is asking $2100 for the front/rear re-gearing to 4.88, includes parts(Yukon) and Labor. He is also going to swap my Dana 30/35 axles to Rubi Dana 44 axles and asking around $300 per axle for the labor. SYE install for another $180-$270.

Am I getting a fair deal for this work?
That looks a little bit high so I would ask them to break down the prices for you in a bit more detail. Ideally you can get the Yukon combo kits for $700-800 https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...t-package-for-jeep-tj-rubicon-4-88-ratio.html So that leaves $1300-1400 for labor to gear those axles.
 
... he is asking $2100 for the front/rear re-gearing to 4.88, includes parts(Yukon) and Labor.

Am I getting a fair deal for this work?
We are in different markets but to give you an idea I paid ~$1100 gears and installation on my LJR.
 
That looks a little bit high so I would ask them to break down the prices for you in a bit more detail. Ideally you can get the Yukon combo kits for $700-800 https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...t-package-for-jeep-tj-rubicon-4-88-ratio.html So that leaves $1300-1400 for labor to gear those axles.
If he’s also getting the Dana 44 axles front and rear swapped it sounds like a good deal. The only thing is losing some clearance due to the larger diffs. But to buy locker for a Dana 30 and upgrading to an S35 along with gears and install is going to jack the price up a lot, so I’d go with what they’re offering, even if the whole deal is ~$2900. Not bad at all considering my Dana 44 swap for a Dana 35 and gears and lockers installed in the Dana 30/Dana 44 cost me $3800 ($800 for the Dana 44, $900 for e-locker, $1200 for regear and rear locker, $400 for front lunchbox, $500 for the gears)
 
We are in different markets but to give you an idea I paid ~$1100 gears and installation on my LJR.
That’s dirt cheap considering the gears themselves are $500+. They charged $300/axle. 👍🏼
 
That’s dirt cheap considering the gears themselves are $500+. They charged $300/axle. 👍🏼
Thanks all for the quick response. Here is the breakdown of charges for the different components.

1) 4.88 Gear install....$2100 (Includes Yukon Front/Rear Gear kit)

- Install kits do not include rear axle bearings and seals.
If we need them, there will be no additional labor cost, only the cost of the parts.

2) Axle Assembly install.....3-4 hours per axle is expected
including upper control arm install.

3) Rock Crawler Front Upper control arms....$250

4) Rock Crawler Rear Upper control arms....$286

5) SYE kit with driveshaft from Crown Performance......$659

Fluid...$30

Labor....3-4 hours

6) Locker compressor install....6 hours is expected. Mount the compressor, run the wiring, install the switch, and run the airlines.

7) Alignment....$95-145

Does it take 6 hours to do the compressor install? Seems to be a bit high
 
Thanks all for the quick response. Here is the breakdown of charges for the different components.

1) 4.88 Gear install....$2100 (Includes Yukon Front/Rear Gear kit)

- Install kits do not include rear axle bearings and seals.
If we need them, there will be no additional labor cost, only the cost of the parts.

2) Axle Assembly install.....3-4 hours per axle is expected
including upper control arm install.

3) Rock Crawler Front Upper control arms....$250

4) Rock Crawler Rear Upper control arms....$286

5) SYE kit with driveshaft from Crown Performance......$659

Fluid...$30

Labor....3-4 hours

6) Locker compressor install....6 hours is expected. Mount the compressor, run the wiring, install the switch, and run the airlines.

7) Alignment....$95-145

Does it take 6 hours to do the compressor install? Seems to be a bit high
1) that does sound steep for gears and install, but if it includes the axle swaps then I think it’s fair

2), 3), and 4) Why only front and rear UPPER control arms? You definitely need rear lower control arms too in my opinion.

6) no idea how long the compressor will take.

7) assuming they adjust the arms during control arm install, the alignment is an easy job that could cost you nothing. The only thing adjustable is the toe.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/
 
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1) that does sound steep for gears and install, but if it includes the axle swaps then I think it’s fair

2), 3), and 4) Why only front and rear UPPER control arms? You definitely need rear lower control arms too in my opinion.

6) no idea how long the compressor will take.

7) assuming they adjust the arms during control arm install, the alignment is an easy job that could cost you nothing. The only thing adjustable is the toe.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/
Yes, I had the same concern. Looking at these numbers, it looks like a huge expense to complete this project. I already put $3K in getting the used Dana 44 axles. I was hoping to get everything done under $5k
 
I was quoted $3,680.00 for gears! I couldn't believe it. Took it to the same shop that did my other Jeep for $1360 out the door.
 
Yes, I had the same concern. Looking at these numbers, it looks like a huge expense to complete this project. I already put $3K in getting the used Dana 44 axles. I was hoping to get everything done under $5k
😳

If you put $3k into those axles before all the other expenses you’ve spent too much money. Some people just have to have Dana 44 front and rear, but it’s not worth it if you’re going to regear. The Dana 30 is just as strong and shares many parts with the front Dana 44. They can both run a 35” tire. Only real difference is the Dana 44 can be geared to 538 while the Dana 30 only to 513, the Dana 44 hangs down lower so it causes loss of clearance, and the stock Rubi lockers are weaker than an ARB or ELocker.

For the rear you can just do a Super35 and be totally set for 35” tires. If I was in your shoes I’d sell the Dana 44’s and build the Dana 30 and Dana 35 the way they should be.

Also, why dump an extra $1k into compressor and installation for an ARB if you can just get an ELocker? Sure sounds extremely expensive way to run locked 35’s.