Someguys 04

only thing i found was the TB frame side got missed for final torque. it was tight but not torqued.

i'll pull the wheels again and set it dead straight then play 1/2 turns until i find a better spot. after i find out why the rod feels spongy.

been saving coin for the rear end suspension but may end up giving it over to PSC.
 
i had to dick around and play with the anti-cone ring sizing........ended up at 3/4".
the UHMW fits great but i had to make a few extra trips around the pattern to fully compress it to 28ft #, but it's beaded up and holding 28# of air w/no leaks. 4x to go.

kinda debating rolling some 1/8 steel and fixing them permanent, now that i have a good dimension.

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while i'm still dickin around with wheels i figured i'd get pics of the 3/8" x 3/4" UHMW i'm using for the anti-cone rings. and i 45'd the ends to overlap nice and tight together. nothing fancy, barely more sophisticated then fan belts, but functions.

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today after work i got a chance to pull the front wheels and get the toe turned out to straight on, or 0 as best i could with the sticks. i'll walk the toe in little by little until i find the spot.

the other day i just blindly twisted the toe in some and it was responding better, still wanted to drift to the low side of the road though.

and it dawned on me today...........i never incorporated a steering stabilizer.
now many times i've heard that a proper set-up should not require 1. but i do wonder if it would assist negating some the creeping to the low side.
 
Dang those rims look great. And those are some great lookin tires also.

I can't comment on the steering stabilizer as I have never ran one and then I had hyd assist.
 
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Dang those rims look great. And those are some great lookin tires also.

I can't comment on the steering stabilizer as I have never ran one and then I had hyd assist.
i'm about a paycheck away from ordering the dam PSC HA kit.........someone shot me a link and it was like almost 200 less than straight from the cow.
 
You buying the BMB parts when you do it?
idk still got some figurin to do. it being a JK axle and a little longer i'm doubting i could use much of an almost bolt on for the TJ axle.
i was considering just the gear/pump/resi/cooler for now but that link got the kit in range, + the 02 hose included.
being weld on might give me options for placement depending on what that cylinder reaches for me.
 
idk still got some figurin to do. it being a JK axle and a little longer i'm doubting i could use much of an almost bolt on for the TJ axle.
i was considering just the gear/pump/resi/cooler for now but that link got the kit in range, + the 02 hose included.
being weld on might give me options for placement depending on what that cylinder reaches for me.
I forgot you don’t have Currie steering. Probably no benefit.
 
i got it out on the road this morn. started with the alignment straight............drive-able just likes to follow the road.

i marked the rod at straight and each position after is 1/4 turn.
straight on it was a little squirrely.
at 1/4 rotation inward, that tightened things up some but was still fairly touchy.
at +1/4 (1/2) rotation from there inward it became pretty stable, but does drift off center. controllable with 2 fingers but requires steering input corrections.
at another +1/4 (3/4) rotation it feels very similar the the last spot, runs straight then just seems to start to drift, and it's either direction. no preference that i notice.
it drives with 1 finger and turns great. lock to lock donuts both directions....no squeeling from PS or clicking from the axle joints.

the struts................those i did notice a few things, they take bumps so much softer than the coils did.
i run the front and rear over the same junk and the front is smooth while the rear coil has a much harsher motion.

i did go over every bolt on the front end and ensure torque values. i got some help stopping by tomrw to run a dry steer test. i'd be surprised if any of it's wobbly but you never know.
 
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so b4 i started out today, i eyeballed the wheels and they have quite a skew. i pulled them and got the sticks out and it says that 3/4 revolution of the TR shaft had me 61 7/8" in front and 62 1/4" at the back edge. this seems hokey to me so i reset the front end to 0* and will proceed after the dry steer test.

and just to be a bitch, she tossed a CEL at me at 1st spark this mornin......P1494 F'n evap leak i gotta chase now......did just fill it up yest but the cap was tight, i know that can toss a code too.
if i had some private property to break this gear set i'd just get the trailer...........to do it on the road means new plates and that means E check and i cannot have a dam CEL lit. i was going tomrw eve dammit 1 more day it couldn't hold.
 
went over the evap visually, nothing i can see. i messed with all the connections.
all wires seem intact, and all connections are attached.

did the dry steer test lock to lock, and back n forth quick show no signs of any odd movement at any joint on the front end.
starting to wonder if these rollers are killin me, they run pretty flat, with huge contact patches, and they are soft to boot, wonder if they are the cause of it wandering. need to get back out and try again.
i did find the frame end jamb nut on the upper CA had worked loose, that's been addressed.

i also changed out the winch cable front end looks pretty clean. minus my dirty shit ass flat black paint job on my grill. and still have to add corner guards on that bumper.

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@mrblaine ......got under the rig after running about 25mi the other day. the upper link on the front end is getting hot. it's proximity with the exhaust is allowing it to retain heat. 2" DOM. i can touch it but it's not comfortable to try and hold it for more than 10-15s
my brake line runs down this link. as does my front locker air line.

would i benefit from going to an aluminum link? would that shed heat quicker or not soak as much? or is my best bet rerouting these lines?
or maybe heat wrap and standoffs.


any advice is helpful.....and thanks as always.
 
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@mrblaine ......got under the rig after running about 25mi the other day. the upper link on the front end is getting hot. it's proximity with the exhaust is allowing it to retain heat. 2" DOM. i can touch it but it's not comfortable to try and hold it for more than 10-15s
my brake line runs down this link. as does my front locker air line.

would i benefit from going to an aluminum link? would that shed heat quicker or not soak as much? or is my best bet rerouting these lines?
or maybe heat wrap and standoffs.


any advice is helpful.....and thanks as always.
We run ARB plastic lines like that all the time. If you can hold onto it at all, that is under 140 degrees F. The only thing I do is move all the lines to the outside and down on the side of the link. They are held onto the link with plastic zip ties and they have never melted.
 
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well 10d worth of crap for build time........................... works kickin 10-12hrs a dy. the shops up over 95*. and i been comin home beat.

did manage to get the beadlocks finished up. they look good and run a lot better than those sticky rollers. i made a few shit choices with wheels and where i ended up in this build. the 15's i hoped to use are crap now with all this 1ton steering. the 17's with the sticky's work but cannot use inner rim weights and those tires are out of here. gonna off the whole lot.
so this leaves me with just those beadlocks which are not gonna be drug around on the road lappin gears.
i did get a few laps in and dialed in the steering some it's much better now, those soft tire were no help in that process.

i found a local sellin his JK sahara take offs for 200$ (255/70/18 = 32x10") and spacers down the road for 60$ (5 on 5 x 1.5")...i'm gonna run fetch this crap and have a normal set of wheels to tune the steering and lap the gear set. i'll look like a roller skate for a little bit ( and be sure to put up a pic for jerry, i know he loves that look). it'll set my contact patch a little wide for now but it'll get me closer than i am now
 
drove 45 mins to find out .........oh i sold them 1's, i got wheels off older jeeps though..............WTF is wrong with people, he answered questions about those wheels.

so i hit up the 2nd option of JL 18" stock rims with 275 70 18's. thats a 33x11ish.
nice treads, no uneven wear same 200$, but i will need those spacers. the spacer guy is supposed to contact me later this eve.