Worst case is change the trans fitting to AN/JIC male -6. Don't worry about what it is now, just change it out.
Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
- Start date
OP
i got to cuttin and bendin and was what there was not easily reworked. it was very tight around the mini cats and very wide off the trans bell.
the route/parts mrblaine suggested would work and i did adopt a portion of it.
i snagged a 25ft roll of 3/8 aluminum tubing, this will do both lines and leave more than enough for a new fuel line.
i snagged a 25ft roll of 3/8 Derale trans coolant hose, this will do all i need here and leave ample extra for running the cooler later.
for the housing i got a new -6AN to 1/2" bushing and -6AN F to 3/8"hose 120*elbows.
4ft of 2000* heat reflective sleeve and a dozen clamps.
this will do this project and leave usable materials for several others.
brakes are all done and bottle bled, no leaks. i still need to do it at least 1 more time manually.
the route/parts mrblaine suggested would work and i did adopt a portion of it.
i snagged a 25ft roll of 3/8 aluminum tubing, this will do both lines and leave more than enough for a new fuel line.
i snagged a 25ft roll of 3/8 Derale trans coolant hose, this will do all i need here and leave ample extra for running the cooler later.
for the housing i got a new -6AN to 1/2" bushing and -6AN F to 3/8"hose 120*elbows.
4ft of 2000* heat reflective sleeve and a dozen clamps.
this will do this project and leave usable materials for several others.
brakes are all done and bottle bled, no leaks. i still need to do it at least 1 more time manually.
OP
well i got the trans lines all piped back in.
new rubber jumpers up front at the radiator.
new 3/8" aluminum coolant lines back to the bell housing. with all the linkage located in that area it was easier to jump back to rubber and around, then into the trans case.
at the case we changed the 3/8" male inverted flare to 1/2" bushing, into a -6AN male to 1/2" bushing. from that is a -6AN female to hose barb, 120*.
these lines are run on the DS of the block. they start at the oil pan and go back, up and around the mini cats then back down and around the trans bell. i took a straight path along the oil pan flange, this pulls the line down close to the bottom edge of the mini cat heat shields.
i am not convinced this area is not a potential heat transfer zone. my stainless steel lines were within an inch of those hot ass exhaust pipes. i have about the same clearance it did b4 just in a different spot and it's now wrapped in 2000* heat reflective sleeve.
the lines are now serviceable they slip in and out easily and can be removed for work or repair.
if i get any trouble from heat i'm gonna reroute it all to the other side and pipe it down the PS of the oil pan, the route is so much cleaner and wide open it should almost be that way already.
gotta fire it up today and check for any drips, b4 calling it done.
today is the battery: i need some military battery post's to hook all the new crap neatly (winch n compressor).
gonna replace the tiny ass #4 lead to the alternator with a #2 and re-purpose that factory #4 to my extra fuse block.
new rubber jumpers up front at the radiator.
new 3/8" aluminum coolant lines back to the bell housing. with all the linkage located in that area it was easier to jump back to rubber and around, then into the trans case.
at the case we changed the 3/8" male inverted flare to 1/2" bushing, into a -6AN male to 1/2" bushing. from that is a -6AN female to hose barb, 120*.
these lines are run on the DS of the block. they start at the oil pan and go back, up and around the mini cats then back down and around the trans bell. i took a straight path along the oil pan flange, this pulls the line down close to the bottom edge of the mini cat heat shields.
i am not convinced this area is not a potential heat transfer zone. my stainless steel lines were within an inch of those hot ass exhaust pipes. i have about the same clearance it did b4 just in a different spot and it's now wrapped in 2000* heat reflective sleeve.
the lines are now serviceable they slip in and out easily and can be removed for work or repair.
if i get any trouble from heat i'm gonna reroute it all to the other side and pipe it down the PS of the oil pan, the route is so much cleaner and wide open it should almost be that way already.
gotta fire it up today and check for any drips, b4 calling it done.
today is the battery: i need some military battery post's to hook all the new crap neatly (winch n compressor).
gonna replace the tiny ass #4 lead to the alternator with a #2 and re-purpose that factory #4 to my extra fuse block.
OP
never did get it fired up...it slipped my mind that the TC was still on a stand. until it's anchored it'll have to hold.
the trans lines relocated are "titties and beer" as far as out of the way of the trans tunnel contact now.
i was able to get the drive line high enough to use the Savvy skid with only a 1" BL..
i got the cross member cut and set up to flip the ends. and then painted as much as i could.
supposed to pour all day tomrw so IDK how productive a day it'll be.
the trans lines relocated are "titties and beer" as far as out of the way of the trans tunnel contact now.
i was able to get the drive line high enough to use the Savvy skid with only a 1" BL..
i got the cross member cut and set up to flip the ends. and then painted as much as i could.
supposed to pour all day tomrw so IDK how productive a day it'll be.
OP
the cross member ends are flipped. it's been fit, welded, painted and installed. made/cut spacers for the frame wrap section i'm not using.
skid fits as it should, and should all be assembled today. i had to wait for some paint to dry.
next i need to see how the oil pan skid will mate up.
skid fits as it should, and should all be assembled today. i had to wait for some paint to dry.
next i need to see how the oil pan skid will mate up.
Last edited:
OP
so the front skid brace was gonna jack up my travel zone. i was not aware that Savvy made a different version for a MA set up.
anyway i had some horseshoe burnouts i cut these to give me a nice wide window to leave open and an arch to not impede up travel.
1/4" burnouts. sandwiched over the MM bracket that i drilled. more pics after paint and install.
all welded, no bolt in the middle to twist, it'll have to bend it.
anyway i had some horseshoe burnouts i cut these to give me a nice wide window to leave open and an arch to not impede up travel.
1/4" burnouts. sandwiched over the MM bracket that i drilled. more pics after paint and install.
all welded, no bolt in the middle to twist, it'll have to bend it.
OP
skids are up. that piece worked out good.
i drilled 1 leg of that MM and sandwiched it in. got good height and plenty of room, not to fugly.
i drilled 1 leg of that MM and sandwiched it in. got good height and plenty of room, not to fugly.
OP
weathers been crap again. but got a few things done.
finished up 1 of the rims and got it painted up. shoved a tire on there and got an idea of what kind of anti cone ring i'll need.
cut off the OE battery lugs and swapped those for some military style. and re-lugged all the ends. and got the winch powered and checked.
checked square on the front axle and made a pinion adjustment. the big jamb's are ready to be locked down.
pulled out the old Hella lamp circuit to make way for the ARB power supply. gonna run it out of the fuel box i think. no space under the hood really unless i remove the A/C pipes and hang the weight on the inner fender.
i could go DS opposite the battery but it's real tight, PITA to work on it there. and the fender has a cutout and i don't want it near a potential splash zone.
i had plans to encase the fuel cell and make a box with some side storage in there, now it'll house the pump too. cells temp'd in the back so i can measure for material for this box.
tomrw she gets fired up and checked for leaks and rattles. then align it. and hopefully get the rear pinion angle corrected from the skid install.
finished up 1 of the rims and got it painted up. shoved a tire on there and got an idea of what kind of anti cone ring i'll need.
cut off the OE battery lugs and swapped those for some military style. and re-lugged all the ends. and got the winch powered and checked.
checked square on the front axle and made a pinion adjustment. the big jamb's are ready to be locked down.
pulled out the old Hella lamp circuit to make way for the ARB power supply. gonna run it out of the fuel box i think. no space under the hood really unless i remove the A/C pipes and hang the weight on the inner fender.
i could go DS opposite the battery but it's real tight, PITA to work on it there. and the fender has a cutout and i don't want it near a potential splash zone.
i had plans to encase the fuel cell and make a box with some side storage in there, now it'll house the pump too. cells temp'd in the back so i can measure for material for this box.
tomrw she gets fired up and checked for leaks and rattles. then align it. and hopefully get the rear pinion angle corrected from the skid install.
When I put the compressor in the front fender I routed air lines up so they won't suck in water. We have DEEP water crossings. It is a pain to do.
OP
if your link gets high enough to have to trim that MM bracket, you'll need something similar. the Savvy piece might allow like 6"^...... i just needed a little more.
Remember I don't have the stock motor mounts on my TJ. I have AA V-8 motor mounts which I'm not sure if the clearance is more or less than the 4.0's mm.
We'll see once I can get things back in front again. This is how I had the braces setup before but I cut them off knowing they weren't going to work.
OP
i could it's just a PITA.
i am considering to mount the front axle solenoid there. that'd keep the feed real short for pressurization and the tube from the unit to the solenoid becomes air storage space.
the 2nd leg is gonna be open for airing wheels. it'll be piped with 3/8 tube, 1 lead forward, 1 lead back, that'll also function as additional volume capacity.
another consideration to not placing it there is my DS fender has the cancer. it's on the replacement list but getting this thing moving is priority over cosmetics. i'm gonna have a lot of cosmetic work when i get done hacking on it, rather do it all at 1x.
OP
thats a unique situation for sure.............
i'd have to start some checking right now.
you got the links?
try this maybe. my upper on the frame is 27 5/16" off the ground. the axle end is 23 3/4" that's like 3 9/16" difference. 6.3* down to the axle.
so hang about a 27" CA in that top frame end, hold the other end on a stand at about 3 1/2 '- 3 9/16" down from it. then see if you can get your travel by lifting that axle end, and checking for touches.
none of this is gonna be exact to you but might warn you of some potential contacts.
OP
took a ride through the sticks this morn for some quiet time.......scored this for 35$ on the way home. guy had a bunch of old rotting jeeps out front with a big parts sign, and this was laying in the back of 1.
OP
CA's are locked down........... front pinion set to 0*, should leave me 6* to into the castor.
the rear end is a little disappointing. i was carrying like an 18* pinion angle and had to crank it up to 23*.
i'm not diggin the CA's now, the lower is all the way in and the upper is to far extended for my liking. this is max for these links. i had to play with all 4 to keep the diff dome of the GTS. i got about a piece of paper worth of room there now. all locked down.
fired it up for about 20m. let fluids cycle some. no leaks.
i shoulda picked up 1 of those short (Stahl) bus oil pan caps b4 the skid went in.
still gotta bleed those brakes 1 more time.
i need to decide about the body mounts as well. i need those front 2 under the doors gone to finish up some welds, then replace them higher. bottom line is i made 2 sets, 1 thicker than the other. i F'd up and brought home the thinner material. and am not sure if i wanted to wait for the shop to open again or just use what i have.
but i need them now............might just use them, they are thick as the OE mounts and will be higher.
the idea is really the new height saving them, not thicker material.
the rear end is a little disappointing. i was carrying like an 18* pinion angle and had to crank it up to 23*.
i'm not diggin the CA's now, the lower is all the way in and the upper is to far extended for my liking. this is max for these links. i had to play with all 4 to keep the diff dome of the GTS. i got about a piece of paper worth of room there now. all locked down.
fired it up for about 20m. let fluids cycle some. no leaks.
i shoulda picked up 1 of those short (Stahl) bus oil pan caps b4 the skid went in.
still gotta bleed those brakes 1 more time.
i need to decide about the body mounts as well. i need those front 2 under the doors gone to finish up some welds, then replace them higher. bottom line is i made 2 sets, 1 thicker than the other. i F'd up and brought home the thinner material. and am not sure if i wanted to wait for the shop to open again or just use what i have.
but i need them now............might just use them, they are thick as the OE mounts and will be higher.
the idea is really the new height saving them, not thicker material.
OP
dicked around with the gate some. all the hardware was easy to remove and i got it pretty clean. needs more sanding.
but all the orange is gone.
a few pits down in the hinge area but a skim coat of filler will hide that.
but all the orange is gone.
a few pits down in the hinge area but a skim coat of filler will hide that.
OP
sick of contemplating over new rubber. i have some 35x12.5x17 soft compound tires, they are loose (dirt/sand) surface off-road tires. the soft compound could lend to rock climbing traction, but might benefit from some additional grooving or siping.
it's gonna be right up at about 1700 to run a set of MT/R's or MT's. kinda hard to choke down that cost for something i expect to get abused. and i'm not in need of a DD tire......so i chose a wheel with a heavy carcass and deep lugs to survive the local conditions.
like mentioned b4 the only class C to me was the MT/R the MT is a D and the rest are E's.
the Interco TSL SX2-105, 35x13.5x17. it's weight rating comes in between the MT/R (@2450ish), the MT (@3000)
the TSL (@ 2995). the pressure to hold this differs, but it'll never see that.
i been staring at these for a while now on the "blem list".
5 tires shipped ran me 1125.
they are big ugly heavy nasty tires, but they'll survive the crap i run here. and they are DOT legal. these will go onto the bead-locks.
it's gonna be right up at about 1700 to run a set of MT/R's or MT's. kinda hard to choke down that cost for something i expect to get abused. and i'm not in need of a DD tire......so i chose a wheel with a heavy carcass and deep lugs to survive the local conditions.
like mentioned b4 the only class C to me was the MT/R the MT is a D and the rest are E's.
the Interco TSL SX2-105, 35x13.5x17. it's weight rating comes in between the MT/R (@2450ish), the MT (@3000)
the TSL (@ 2995). the pressure to hold this differs, but it'll never see that.
i been staring at these for a while now on the "blem list".
5 tires shipped ran me 1125.
they are big ugly heavy nasty tires, but they'll survive the crap i run here. and they are DOT legal. these will go onto the bead-locks.
OP
whipped up a couple small AnitRock axle brackets. these should do.
i only need to hold above the tie rod and about 3" off the tube. 1/4" material.
i only need to hold above the tie rod and about 3" off the tube. 1/4" material.
Last edited:
OP
got those brackets all welded up to the axle today. A-R is all tied in.
while messin with the AR i noticed the wheels were not equal distance out each side.
i had measured from BJ grease fitting to opposite frame rail, but the wheels tell another story and i trust them. so i had to lengthen the TB some.
set the toe on the front end.
and i cut off the front body mount on both sides to get into those last few welds. hope to have that done tomrw. i'll use what i made to replace them.
while messin with the AR i noticed the wheels were not equal distance out each side.
i had measured from BJ grease fitting to opposite frame rail, but the wheels tell another story and i trust them. so i had to lengthen the TB some.
set the toe on the front end.
and i cut off the front body mount on both sides to get into those last few welds. hope to have that done tomrw. i'll use what i made to replace them.