Someguys 04

[someguysjeep]

stuffed up like that i pushed the diff up to the TB. that's where it's all the tightest.

snapped a peek through the unfinished TB frame mount. you can see the pitman joint the TB and the dif cover,as tight as i dare.

 

[someguysjeep]

feeling like i'm getting somewhere now. old TJ caliper next to the installed JK big brake caliper. but really it's superficial..........i got an ass load of work to do yet.

all that dam oil on the ground is from the motorcycle jack, the seal is toast. and i can't find rebuild parts for this old unit. until i rig a new bottle jack up it's a bleeder.

 

[someguysjeep]

this is the wheel room. the wheels pointed straight ahead, just over max up travel.
(side note: at this point the pinion angle has changed +2.6* to the castor)

this rim allows tire touch to the LCA, but it's a real deep BS (like 6"), my new rims are 4.5"BS.

i'm gonna drop 1 end to max droop and see what room the wheels have to turn but i don't see anything to suggest contact anywhere else.

i also need to be positive about the steering timing Blaine suggested to me the box/gear needs to limit b4 the knuckle peg hits. i got this throw measurement from someone else's build, if it's not correct i could need another pitman arm.
the axle shafts are good as is i don't wanna try and turn them more, so messin with the knuckle stop is not how i wanna fix this.

 

[someguysjeep]

embarrassed to even put this to text but. i almost dumped it yesterday. i came 1 jack stand from the rig falling onto the axle.

i dropped 1 end to the ground and turned the high tire in the well. with 1 tire at ride height end the other at max height i have no touches...............so with that wheel down i went and tried to lower the other side.

STUPID IDIOT... the planted tire shifted the rig and dumped it off of the stands. 1 stand held or it could have been real bad.
i didn't get any pics, but the wheel pictured above appears to raise/tilt another 2" with the opposite end on the ground.
i tried to pull 1 wheel and droop that side to max and check again but the big wheels are messing with the balance. i try to pick up the wheeled end and it's weight tries to pull the whole axle up. i cannot pin 1 end to the dirt and get the other to max with that huge weight offset. not after i almost dumped it........

the way it lifts, i'd have to jack 1 side and then go force the other end down or be able to lift directly under the wheel. where i'm able to locate the jack is inside the C, inside the LCA bracket and just at the verge of not lifting just 1 side. even with the offset of the diff weight.
when the links where absent playing with the axle transferred no force, with the links attached i have to be very careful of any stress they transfer while supported from stands. nothing binds but it does pull when you start twisting stuff around with a big ass 100# wheel hanging from 1 side.
with both or no wheels i can move it around easily with no issues.

i don't foresee any issues, i got more tire to fender room than 85% of the rest of the pack.
today i'll get to that steering test, fill the diff and start into the piping the brake sys.

 

[tworley]

Sounds scary! I always keep an eye on the stands for fear that they will move from under the rig. Having a buddy with a lift makes things much easier and safer that is for sure

 

[someguysjeep]

the stands were fine, it was my mistake of the planted tire that got me, and shifted the whole rig.
when i play with the bare axle that low i had a roller under it and it could move easily. that planted tired didn't move.

 

[someguysjeep]

@mrblaine, sorry to drag you over here, but i have a small issue.
awhile back there was a conversation about steering, i cannot find it for the life of me but the main concern of mine was throw length vs gear timing vs wheel peg stop.

if i remember correctly, it was your instruction the gear should limit b4 the wheel peg, correct?
if it where the other way the gear would strain to continue to move what it cannot, so gear limits 1st?

 

[mrblaine]

@mrblaine, sorry to drag you over here, but i have a small issue.
awhile back there was a conversation about steering, i cannot find it for the life of me but the main concern of mine was throw length vs gear timing vs wheel peg stop.

if i remember correctly, it was your instruction the gear should limit b4 the wheel peg, correct?
if it where the other way the gear would strain to continue to move what it cannot, so gear limits 1st?

All stop at the same time.

 

[someguysjeep]

All stop at the same time.

very good. as always, thanks for your time and help.

 

[someguysjeep]

today i got the diff buttoned up.
the TB fixed and torqued to the axle end.
got the axle upper CA mount all welded up and painted.

got into playing with the steering and hit a wall there. the info i followed i either followed wrong or it was not accurate but the throw is off by about a fat inch. from the looks of it i have the room to make another hole in the pitman. i gotta play with everything some and nail this down b4 drilling.

on a side note if i'm relocating the pitman hole i can trim the bar. this would allow me to sneak the axle forward more. if i relocate the TB mount again. i'm not gonna chase a 1/2" but i might go after 1.5" we'll see what it nets, and how the struts would take it.

and the brake line flexible jumpers won't reach full turn at full droop so they'll be jumped to the axle and fed from there.

rain all day tormw so i'll be shopping brake pieces parts online i guess.

 

[someguysjeep]

about ready to get some support under this thing, i made some calls, and find out today i can't get gas. the local airgas is not supplying to any nonessential business customers right now. i put a call into the plant to see if they let me borrow some, but i don't have expectations they'll call back.
i guess next call is ORI and see if the gas can be substituted without effecting the performance.
i got my 80/20 mig mix, but IDK what that might do.

edit : not gonna chance the mix crap, to many varying opinions......work did call back and said i could snag what i need but in and out no contact mask n gloves and i better not be sick..........so i'll run fetch that tomrw morn.

 

[someguysjeep]

i'm not gonna split the post up 5x so i'll be editing this over the days work.

i got a spot.
from the axles dictated maximum turning point (right up to the shafts bind limit).
i am able to locate a position on the pitman that can be = to full limit of the gear and limit of the wheels at the same moment. now i gotta get it off and re-drill and shape it. thanx for the help guys.

the pitman came off with no issues got the pilot hold done, and the end cut off the long bar, removing the mistake hole. can't find my bits anywhere, i did some work on the knuckles at the shop they could be in my box there, i hope.

then it was time to fire the grill, the rain held off for the afternoon and temps were mild so it was a good enough excuse.
i pulled all the hard brake lines off the front end.
tomrw i need to haz-mat suit up and hit the parts store to grab what i can and have to order the rest.

i'd like to get most of the brake plumbing done tomrw, the pitman finished and really try to get the struts at least bolted in by the end of the day.

 

[someguysjeep]

bad storms last night, no power at the shop so that was postponed until tomrw. i played with the axle and got good spots to mount the flex lines for the calipers. all welded up and repainted.

the local parts store doesn't offer many of the parts i need. but i got a list i think will work, and it's all been ordered.
i was able to reconfigure 1 of the stainless lines to feed the front end, at the frame UCA bracket.
and ordered a union for the drop off the prop valve to the flex line.
a plug for the extra now unused prop valve port.
a 36" flex line to span the UCA.
a tee to split the feeds at the axle end.
this should leave me just 2 small jumpers to hit the brackets i installed on the axle. those i'll make.

i got those struts hung, but cannot find 4 of the misalignment bushings. i had 4 out of the package from a mock-up last fall and thought i'd put them back. anyway i'll continue to look but have ordered replacements. that should ship out today.

 

[someguysjeep]

i got the pitman all reworked.

i pulled the steering gear to the d. side limit and bumped the wheel on the d. side peg, the DL fit right in.
i pulled the gear around to p. side max and the bumped the peg on the p. side wheel, DL fit right in.
this was manual manipulation of axle and steering gear.

when i went to only steering wheel input the gear limited 1 washer from each peg, telling me there is a slight slop that exists. and i could have gone another 1/16-1/8" on the throw, but i'll just add a washer at the peg for now so the wheels not tuggin on that slop.

i have to admit here, i should not have set the throw based on manual manipulation, it was a small mistake that could have been avoided. so if you read this crap use the steering input.

but i reached all stop at the same time which is the goal. whatever a 1/16" washer does to my turn radius is the cost of my mistake.
the axle shafts are part of this equation and until i go to CV's and increase the working angle, 1 washers not killin me. and doesn't warrant a new purchase. if i go to CV's then i got more turn to use. i can loose the washers and increase the throw to use it if i choose.

 

[someguysjeep]

made a little more progress today. got the steering linkage all torqued and pinned (minus the frame end TB, might beef/backbone that more).

now i trimmed that pitman after adjusting the throw hole. it gave me about an inch i can scoot the axle forward the struts will take it......all i need to do is relocate the frame side TB mount again.
but i'm gonna pass here i think, it's all set and guestimated for what it is not whats an inch away 1st. and second i don't think i'll be going HA, and might jump right to full hydro if/when this gear dies on me. so not shoving forward means i can keep all that underneath. last is i'm close to the limit of my joint extension from the upper link shaft. any more and it'll need lengthened/replaced.

torqued in the front DS. it's got room to compress and my swing arc is nice and tight now so it only needs to reach down to full droop without droppin out on me and i'm good for now.......if it won't reach or when this 1 shits out i'll put a Woody in.

plumbed up and ran the OX locker feed into the cab.
i could dick around and set this all up on a solenoid and have push button power control. but there's something to be said with the pneumatic switch Ox provides it's cheap and simple. hose, valve, pressure that's it. so i'm gonna go with it for now.

Jensen Bro's came through for me, they got those MA bushings to me today.... from Utah IIRC. TY.
also got the plug for the prop valve, that's in.
just need the rest of the brake pieces parts. then i'll swap the MC when i do that.

got the struts fully mounted. it's all there, all hooked and now tomrw i'm gonna cycle it all again....if i'm good, i'm ready for charging.

 

[someguysjeep]

never got to mess with the axle....... 50mph wind gusts and rain most of the morn, even though it was pretty warm.

i did dick around after the showers. and the way the locker air line runs it'll have some spots it might rub on.
i have some 3/8" air tubing, so i slid that over my 1/4" feed to give it some additional protection.

then got the dash bezel pulled, and now i'm messin with the lower switch panel to pull off the old lamp switches and configure the locker switch (R) and valve (F).

 

[someguysjeep]

got out to the shop today, and got the nitrogen bottle.
about the time i got home and started playin with the axle it busted down pourin and the 30-50mph wind kicked up again.

these things are sticky right now, new and no pressure, so they travel a little jerky right now.
1st pic is whole axle hung at full droop, it swings DS due to TB pull, but all moves clean. i tried to balance pinion and castor. so castor goes -2.6* at the low point, so the DS doesn't have to eat it all.

2nd pic is full droop and as far as my jack could raise the opposite C, about 4" short of full compression there or 3" into it's up travel. same both ways, no evidence of issues.
i'm gonna shove it up level, to max strut travel tomrw, check that.
then when i don't have high winds blowing the whole jeep around, i'll get a block on that jack and twist it further both ways.

 

[someguysjeep]

i tinkered with the center bezel and there is no way to mount the pneumatic toggle in a way that doesn't bug me.
so i found and ordered 3 rocker switches that fit the OE panel.
and OX makes a small solenoid that's made for this sys so i went ahead and snagged it.
so now i'll have F locker, R locker and a lamp switch nice and tidy in the panel next to the O/D button.

brake parts got here today.
i got a tab to weld on the truss to pick up the junction block and then i can plumb all that in.

 

[someguysjeep]

ok she stuffs clean, flat/level. no issues.
the last inch of this strut is a bump stop, and it's needs the weight of the rig to get into it.........i could not compress the last 1" without shifting the vehicles weight and lifting it......but i have the room. i'll never get into it unless i slam the front end down hard.

pics of DS wheel at full stuff other side fully extended, both sides are clear, straight and turned to max.
little bit of a bad shadow on the rear well wall, but you can see it has plenty of room with the GR high-line inner. i can get my fat paw in there still.

now's the real fun part, wheels are back on and i have to fully compress the struts and release any pressure b4 filling.
so now i get to lower the chassis down onto the axle and see if those bumps compress when full weight hits them, then i can vent and fill.

 

[someguysjeep]

all right all the way down to the bottom.........look Ma no stands. she's standin on her own. even with all the weight of the front end and i even stood on the bumper that last inch is hard and it's not gonna go until slammed. which ain't gonna happen.

time to bust out my double feed set-up and if i can vent um, i can fill um.

dig the rake, hope that AS is good or it'll be a wild ride.