Someguys 04

Wildman said:
I wonder what it would take to swap the front stanchions to a thru the dash tubes? Or if I could do that?

Of course might be easier to get a whole new cage made. I like what you have done with that PS cage.
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I did exactly that, Rick. Not too big a deal - completely cut out the old a-pillar and cross tube, pull the dash back a bit, bend up new a-pillars, and trim the dash. The trick for me was to use tube connectors under the level of the dash to allow the cage to be removed without completely removing the dash.
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
I did exactly that, Rick. Not too big a deal - completely cut out the old a-pillar and cross tube, pull the dash back a bit, bend up new a-pillars, and trim the dash. The trick for me was to use tube connectors under the level of the dash to allow the cage to be removed without completely removing the dash.
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OK

I keep not doing it but dang nab I need a tube bender.... more money to spend...
 
i should have some pics of the cage later. getting the last few pieces tacked in today. and then start welding what i can while it's inside the tub. really hoping i'm able to lift this fucker out for finishing, i think i got the dash pillars vertical enough to pull um up n out.

the brake lines on the rear axle are done, just need bled.
had to swap out 2 short bolts in the rear lower CA's at the frame end, that's done now.

rockers have been at work for a wk now. i shot um with 2 part epoxy to give them a harder finish, but hate shine so it got covered with flat black. a couple coats of clear matte and they are ready.............should be on next wk.

so the cage feet up front need tied to more than the pot metal floor. the location of the feet are gonna put the fasteners right down through my new rockers.
i was thinking to take the foot pad and drill it in the center, then weld on a heavy pattern 1/2 nut that would locate centered inside the bottom of my tube. then i could use a body mount and slightly longer body mount bracket from underneath off the frame rail and the large single bolt would go through the body mount and the floor and right into the foot plate of the cage. think it would work sufficiently?
 
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someguysjeep said:
... i was thinking to take the foot pad and drill it in the center, then weld on a heavy pattern 1/2 nut that would locate centered inside the bottom of my tube. then i could use a body mount and slightly longer body mount bracket from underneath off the frame rail and the large single bolt would go through the body mount and the floor and right into the foot plate of the cage. think it would work sufficiently?
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I think that would work fine. I’ve considered doing something similar to your body mount cage tie in on my rig - just have never gotten around to trying it. I think the down side would be less clearance under that mount compared to a more traditional a-pillar cage tie in approach.
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
I think that would work fine. I’ve considered doing something similar to your body mount cage tie in on my rig - just have never gotten around to trying it. I think the down side would be less clearance under that mount compared to a more traditional a-pillar cage tie in approach.
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ya i think most mounts run a flat plate over from a barrel bushing n bracket hung off the frame. it's pretty bulky but also pretty tight against the frame. nothings set permanent just yet i'm a procrastinator until i'm convinced it's gonna be ok, and kinda throwin ideas to see what sticks.
 
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so A bars were added
a dead leg overhead to the door header was added.
a low bar from A to B was added.
a bar from B to C was added.
and a dead leg between the odd bend over the rear was added.
an inverse V/U was added to the front header to dash bar.
the pre-bent dash bar was replaced with a straight tube.
just really leaves the frame tie in's.

that's about as far as it's going until i fit door bars which will clamp into this structure.

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you can see i cheezed up the dead leg over the pass. seat and cut it to short. it'll be fine with the inner sleeve to bridge it.
 
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well, the things as welded as i can get it inside the tub...............so i pushed the rig outside and it's just a bit to heavy for me to get it out alone. sucker just made it under the garage door by 1/4".
it's disco'd and moves, but i'm gonna have to rig a hoist to get it in and out, without tearin something up. it has to rise over 2ft to get free of the dash.

that allowed me to pull the windshield frame, so that's sanded, hung and primed. gonna shoot it khaki/metlc here in a bit.
 
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i figured while the jeep is outside i'll blow some of the dust off it.
there where a few of last yrs fall leaves in the bottom of the grill, so i put the wand down in there and blasted them out. 3mins later there's a big ol wet spot under the front end. the rad's drippin and likely shot.
i guess it's better to find it at home than in the field

who's radiators do we trust?.
 
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found a used Tj radiator for 45$ on FB. guy says it's has the auto trans spigots. might go take a peek at it

new Mopar part is almost 300 from rock auto and more like 500-800 from any of the usual jeep huts.

the mopar parts site has um for 304$ and 504$ not sure what the diff is. they say they are sold in lots though?
 
still lookin to see if i can find a better cost on that radiator. don't think i wanna mess with another just a old, no matter how cheap.

work told me go look busy this morn so i went and dug out some good stuff from the big bin and ...........................

can you guess? pic tomrw once it's assembled.

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about 11ft of 3"x 3"x 1/4", inner tubed so they can be put together. 3 varying lengths of 3" channel. and a length of 1/4"x 1"

1st clue is that fence right there next to it all is gonna be an integral part of the anchor sys temporarily.
 
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nobody's playing, so no reason to bother with games.
i put 1/2 of it together tonight and ran some anchor lines. i have the mast and down guy to hang in the morn.

this will help me pull that cage and replace it once finished.
i can lift it i just can't press that big bitch up over my head and walk off the jeep with it. so it's not a crazy heavy deal.
i got to get it up 2ft then push the jeep out from under it all. to stay close i don't have a leg facing the way i really want 1. but i will fit and weld a steel work horse to the front once the jeep is set, this will act as a gusset from the ground and i have it anchored back from the top to the fence posts with straps. up n down 2x that's all i need it for.


the cage kit came with 4 coped tubes for the B bar to header gussets. i don't like um and need and more than that so i made up a bunch of flat gussets with holes that might be useful for tie off's or hangers if needed. 2 tacked together on the left so they'd be identical and the 2 on the right are marked to be radiused if i desire.

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Wildman said:
Nice gussets. Things are looking great.
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that stupid jib ain't gonna do it. i really need that leg out front to have proper balance, but it'll make me have to swing the cage away from the tub and that i did not build for.

gotta run my woman out for new work shoes, then i'm gonna rig an outside leg to support the structure more like a gantry, that'll pick it and be much safer.

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It really sucks trying to lift a cage on your own! Pulling the stock one out was one thing... pulling a cage with at least 2x as much material and way more awkward weight distribution is brutal. Looks like you've got it under control though!
 
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