Someguys 04

frame side front TB bracket is beefed up. it's being painted shortly.
and i went ahead and pulled the driver side fender. i have the fender bars i showed several posts ago and made up some 16ga panels for the sides.
now to just get it fit without it lookin like poo.

afternoon edit: must be about 4pm she's screamin "GET OUTTA MY HOUSE" again.
 
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some added tabs to the TB bracket and tryin to make a fender.

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finally ended my procrastination and ordered up the new T.W. rear drive shaft.
X spline @ 31 11/16" long, the guy said that's a big stretch and the shaft is JKUR length, they say it'll be here b4 next tues.
i coulda sent my old 1 in and had it altered, but i'll keep it for another probable project TJ.

also called and ordered 2ft of clear fuel filler tubing. i don't wanna be blind and flooding it to the fill cap. this will allow me to stop filling as soon as i see fuel in that tube. should be here by the wkend.

driver seat is cleaned and back in and i sprayed that old CJ gate my OE khaki. it's got a ding or 2 but that's fine by me. pics when it gets back on.
 
ya, i think this is it. the top deck is barely 6" wide and it tapers back. i was thinkin an aluminum deck for weight, but there's none there. so i might as well use 7ga steel sheet. these things will still maybe end up about 35# ea.

though they are not real HD i can make them for free from the junk bin in a couple hrs time. gonna cost me more to paint um than make um.

the front edge of the side of the fender where it comes to be wheel well, i'm gonna form another small bend and lay it inside the existing bend and weld it in to stiffen that leg up.

that inner fender edge will be tucked behind and it'll be bent to fit the boat-side, still several things to do b4 it's a fender but this is about what it's gonna be.

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Those fenders are coming along nicely! I'd consider something thinner for the top sheet, maybe even as thin as 14ga. All the strength you'll need is coming from the channel along the outside.

Also, having just put my cage in last night with the help of two other people, I congratulate you sir on getting it done by yourself. That was no easy task!
 
Those fenders are coming along nicely! I'd consider something thinner for the top sheet, maybe even as thin as 14ga. All the strength you'll need is coming from the channel along the outside.

Also, having just put my cage in last night with the help of two other people, I congratulate you sir on getting it done by yourself. That was no easy task!
I went with 11ga. The 7ga was to much. It's plenty rigid across the top.
 
WOW you've made some nice progress on your rig. That cage looks really great and turned out better than Poison Spyder figured it should. Your added tweaks just makes it look RIGHT. I'll keep looking to see if I can score a deal like you did. If not I guess I'll just end up having a shop make me a full cage.
Those guys customs are like the TJ cage experts. Highly recommend the trip over
 
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Looks good, so what axle did you end up using here? Got a pic of the rest of your steering?
JK Rubi axle.

stock knuckles
7075 aluminum tie rod, GM 1 ton offset ends.
1.5" DOM drag link with 1 ton GM ends, moved OTK.
flat pitman arm.

the trouble is i used every bit of travel i could squeeze and my upper link is already within an skinny 1/8" of that A/C compressor. this brings my steering links up into the cut on the frame y'all use for hi steer. to add hi steer i'd have to limit up travel or have to dam near cut through the frame to get the drag link room.

i hate how low the TR sits now and the 1ton TRE's let it flop a bit also.
i did consider making it a Y link like the Tj uses, loppin off the drag nub and goin OTK with the TR. but i'm not puttin more $ into this if it's leaving, and /or make changes to make it un-sell-able either.

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JK Rubi axle.

stock knuckles
7075 aluminum tie rod, GM 1 ton offset ends.
1.5" DOM drag link with 1 ton GM ends, moved OTK.
flat pitman arm.

the trouble is i used every bit of travel i could squeeze and my upper link is already within an skinny 1/8" of that A/C compressor. this brings my steering links up into the cut on the frame y'all use for hi steer. to add hi steer i'd have to limit up travel or have to dam near cut through the frame to get the drag link room.

i hate how low the TR sits now and the 1ton TRE's let it flop a bit also.
i did consider making it a Y link like the Tj uses, loppin off the drag nub and goin OTK with the TR. but i'm not puttin more $ into this if it's leaving, and /or make changes to make it un-sell-able either.

View attachment 260169
Looks like you have loads of room for hydro assist. If you mount the fixed end on the diff cover and run it over toward the knuckle seems like it would work. Those air springs/shocks sure make for a clean install. Did you do a 35 spline ox?
 
Looks like you have loads of room for hydro assist. If you mount the fixed end on the diff cover and run it over toward the knuckle seems like it would work. Those air springs/shocks sure make for a clean install. Did you do a 35 spline ox?
i did my best to keep clean lines. the TB had to be almost unnoticeable behind the drag, they had to be exactly the same length, no extra clutter. i'm a tad OCD about stupid stuff.

no, i did not do 35 splines, it's all fogged in my melon. i subconsciously kept building the rig bigger even though i was made aware the axles were sub par for the task.

it's a whole long story of not listening to some and following another to a place of smoke and mirrors and BS.
not taking advice, happenstance, missing details, second guesses and denial.
bottom line is i just didn't dig deep enough b4 i jumped into the hole.
a handful of guys would say slap 37's on there and roll it.................while others say ha-ha good luck.

to fix this issue in my mind and be confident i feel i'd need 4500$ to upgrade the front (locker shafts and 60 c's) and another 3500$ for the rear (locker, shafts and FF kit) just for 37's.
lot of work and money for a target just 1 step up.

i have the room, i have the suspension, why bother that cost and labor to get 1 step, when i could get a jump up for a fraction of that cost if i used production axles.

production axle? 1 might ask. sure i got hung up on all that shaved crap for about 2 wks.....then pops up this thread of WOD/Cranes new rock bouncer with it's un-shaved monster dif's hangin down there, which gets me thinkin.
i hear mention of guys wreckin shaves and leaks . none of that's any good.

now these WOD guys made this rig to slam into the side of every nasty, muddy, rocky, log infested bounty hill around at top speed and they don't worry 1 dam bit about the diff hangin there. why am i gonna worry about a little bump or drag at 2mph now and then.
and the "jump up" can get me to 39's. with just a few upgrades............that gets my belly up more and almost negates the diff size from the rolling radius standpoint vs a 35" wheel on a Dana 44.

so here i end up at un-shaved big ass cheap to buy production axles.
i still want an HP (this points to the 05^ ford 60) up front and an LP in the rear w/ pinion guard is fine by me (14 bolt), the 10.5 ford rear is not bad but the 14 has more market support .
 
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i did my best to keep clean lines. the TB had to be almost unnoticeable behind the drag, they had to be exactly the same length, no extra clutter. i'm a tad OCD about stupid stuff.

no, i did not do 35 splines, it's all fogged in my melon. i subconsciously kept building the rig bigger even though i was made aware the axles were sub par for the task.

it's a whole long story of not listening to some and following another to a place of smoke and mirrors and BS.
not taking advice, happenstance, missing details, second guesses and denial.
bottom line is i just didn't dig deep enough b4 i jumped into the hole.
a handful of guys would say slap 37's on there and roll it.................while others say ha-ha good luck.

to fix this issue in my mind and be confident i feel i'd need 4500$ to upgrade the front (locker shafts and 60 c's) and another 3500$ for the rear (locker, shafts and FF kit) just for 37's.
lot of work and money for a target just 1 step up.

i have the room, i have the suspension, why bother that cost and labor to get 1 step, when i could get a jump up for a fraction of that cost if i used production axles.

production axle? 1 might ask. sure i got hung up on all that shaved crap for about 2 wks.....then pops up this thread of WOD/Cranes new rock bouncer with it's un-shaved monster dif's hangin down there, which gets me thinkin.
i hear mention of guys wreckin shaves and leaks . none of that's any good.

now these WOD guys made this rig to slam into the side of every nasty, muddy, rocky, log infested bounty hill around at top speed and they don't worry 1 dam bit about the diff hangin there. why am i gonna worry about a little bump or drag at 2mph now and then.
and the "jump up" can get me to 39's. with just a few upgrades............that gets my belly up more and almost negates the diff size from the rolling radius standpoint vs a 35" wheel on a Dana 44.

so here i end up at un-shaved big ass cheap to buy production axles.
i still want an HP (this points to the 05^ ford 60) up front and an LP in the rear w/ pinion guard is fine by me (14 bolt), the 10.5 ford rear is not bad but the 14 has more market support .
Awwhhh man! You mean I did this for nuthin'?

 
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Awwhhh man! You mean I did this for nuthin'?

not at all, you went after last last 2". and if it becomes an easier option for me to use i'd do it as well. i just think it's not a deal breaker for running the axle if it's not trimmed.
 
i did my best to keep clean lines. the TB had to be almost unnoticeable behind the drag, they had to be exactly the same length, no extra clutter. i'm a tad OCD about stupid stuff.

no, i did not do 35 splines, it's all fogged in my melon. i subconsciously kept building the rig bigger even though i was made aware the axles were sub par for the task.

it's a whole long story of not listening to some and following another to a place of smoke and mirrors and BS.
not taking advice, happenstance, missing details, second guesses and denial.
bottom line is i just didn't dig deep enough b4 i jumped into the hole.
a handful of guys would say slap 37's on there and roll it.................while others say ha-ha good luck.

to fix this issue in my mind and be confident i feel i'd need 4500$ to upgrade the front (locker shafts and 60 c's) and another 3500$ for the rear (locker, shafts and FF kit) just for 37's.
lot of work and money for a target just 1 step up.

i have the room, i have the suspension, why bother that cost and labor to get 1 step, when i could get a jump up for a fraction of that cost if i used production axles.

production axle? 1 might ask. sure i got hung up on all that shaved crap for about 2 wks.....then pops up this thread of WOD/Cranes new rock bouncer with it's un-shaved monster dif's hangin down there, which gets me thinkin.
i hear mention of guys wreckin shaves and leaks . none of that's any good.

now these WOD guys made this rig to slam into the side of every nasty, muddy, rocky, log infested bounty hill around at top speed and they don't worry 1 dam bit about the diff hangin there. why am i gonna worry about a little bump or drag at 2mph now and then.
and the "jump up" can get me to 39's. with just a few upgrades............that gets my belly up more and almost negates the diff size from the rolling radius standpoint vs a 35" wheel on a Dana 44.

so here i end up at un-shaved big ass cheap to buy production axles.
i still want an HP (this points to the 05^ ford 60) up front and an LP in the rear w/ pinion guard is fine by me (14 bolt), the 10.5 ford rear is not bad but the 14 has more market support .
I hear you. Trying to make a stock motor work with 37s is a bit of tough proposition. I am proving the Jk44s can run 37s but the axle is undersized for them and the consumables go fast (wheel bearings and balljoints). But if you go 14 bolts and 40's FORGET having any measurable amount of joy driving on the highway with a stock motor.
 
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I hear you. Trying to make a stock motor work with 37s is a bit of tough proposition. I am proving the Jk44s can run 37s but the axle is undersized for them and the consumables go fast (wheel bearings and balljoints). But if you go 14 bolts and 40's FORGET having any measurable amount of joy driving on the highway with a stock motor.
i doomed it to a trailer as soon as i moved that fuel tank inside. Ohio won't plate this vehicle until it gets past the required emissions testing age.

when i break it, i gotta be able to get it home, so i gave up on that drive in and out stuff. the closest place for me to wheel is 2hrs away. the next is 4.

this is 1 of my hurdles/mistakes......... i used parts that would keep aspects of the build better for road handling and it was a waste. i should have built it like a dam buggy from go cause i don't need it to be a highway ride.
 
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waiting for my drive shaft to come...........checked the email and it was charged on the 17th and is set for arrival tomrw.

but seems we might have an issue. i know i told them 31 11/16 and the invoice says 33 and 11/16. 31 is whats on my paper right here so i don't know why or how i woulda said 33.

might be going right back...............dammit.
 
driveshaft arrived today and......................... it's to long.

i called in to the Tom Wood shop and they are willing to help me correct it for the cost of the shipping.
they say the are running pretty low on DC ends so they can't remake it and send it ..................which i'd never expect. but i'd have to send mine back for alteration.
gonna shoot it out from work tomrw.
3-4dys each way for travel and a day to fix it. i won't see it back until maybe late next wk at the earliest.
 
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shaft went back on wed's.

i was able to go ahead and weld the deck onto the channel for the fenders.
i have them both fit to the Jeep . i spent a bit more time than i should have trying to get the bend around the grill as tight as i could and the piece actually twists as it follows the grill.
i did have to put a hole in the side panels, it's just to tight to get my ham hocks up into the fender and bolt it on from behind, i gotta be able to reach in and get um. it'll also act as a vent and eventually be covered by aluminum armor.
just need to add on a gusset up front to support the deck from the grill end and weld it all solid, then they're ready for some paint.

a rear FF 14 bolt w/disc's popped up right down the road on FB today for 150$ and is gonna be stuck in my head all day.
 
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